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TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Rebuild and Assembly - Step by Step


Jedi Warrior
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TR3 Windshield Rebuild and Assembly

Here is how I went about the rebuild of the TR3 windshield. I must say, I was a bit apprehensive about this job at first, but with a few small tricks and it turned out perfectly with very little effort. I found bits and pieces on this site about the “how to” but I felt a more detailed posting would help those who come after me.

Step #1 – Go to bank and take out small fortune in cash for chroming shop. Give consideration to selling kidney on black market as an option. Pay chrome shop, and return chromed goodies home.

Step #2 carefully unwrap the 2 windshield main frame pieces – one bow shaped piece for the main frame bottom, and one U shaped piece for the main frame. Use a thick blanket or old sleeping bag on the work table for this job.

Step #3 – wrap windshield glazing seal Moss p/n 680-455 seal around glass, centering on both sides of the glass. Do not try to insert the seal into the frame and slide glass into frame. Tape seal to glass with duct tape to pull it tight and keep it in place.


Do NOT do this.

Do THIS instead.

Step #4 – slide glass/seal into u shaped frame, pushing firmly into bottom of U shaped frame piece. Temporarily check the bottom piece for fit. Trim the excess rubber seal with a box cutter off the windshield. This can also be done later if you wish.

Step #5 - cut off a small piece of the bottom rubber seal (the seal that goes between windshield bottom and scuttle) – Moss p/n 680-470 that goes into the bottom frame channel – the piece should be approx ½” wide. The TRF piece is marked to distinguish front and back so make note of this to not insert backwards later. Don’t worry about shortening it ½”, there’s plenty there.


Step #6 – squirt liquid laundry soap into the lower bow channel full length, and the insert the small piece of ½” wide seal into channel from one end and pull it along to be sure it goes smoothly from one end to the other. If it stops along the way this means there is likely some pieces or small remnants of the old rubber deep under the channel lip that must be removed – check carefully and clean the channel groove with a box cutter or knife or whatever to remove old hardened rubber, until the ½” piece slides freely from aide to side. This may not e visible at first because the old rubber is likely under the channel slot.

Step #7 – screw in L shaped brackets Moss p/n 802-675 onto frame and screw frame bottom (with previously installed rubber seal like in step #3) to U shaped main frame. Check to make sure everything pulls together tight. Because you are working with the frame upside down, have an assistant hold the frame steady from this point on.


Step #8 – now loosen up both sides side of the L bracket so the bottom frame channel is not sitting tight against the side U channel. Start to feed the rubber seal in from one end and pull it across to the other side. Use lots of dish detergent. It will pull easily with some assistance from a set of pliers. Do not try to take a picture of this because your assistant is using both hands to steady the frame and you are using both hands to coax the rubber along. If you want a picture here, you need another assistant.

Step #9 –cut the rubber seal so it is flush with the end of the chrome side frame. It can be a bit longish, as it will get trimmed later, just don’t cut it too short. But it also must not interfere with the fit of the stanchion.


Step #10 – tighten the L brackets back up so you have the 4 sides of the windshield frame tight.

Step # 11 – mount the left and right windshield stanchions (802-690) and tenon plates Moss p/n 680-470 onto the side of the w/s frame – 3 screws – 2 short 7/8”, 1 long 1” each side. Long screw at the bottom where stanchion is thicker. Do NOT use the long screw in the top 2 holes or you WILL crack the windshield!
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Jedi Warrior
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TR3 Windshield Assembly Step by Step – Part 2

Step #12 – turn the windshield onto its front side down and angle-trim the bottom seal edge so it is now a tad shorter at the top than the stanchion.

Step #13 – install the corner finisher (Moss p/n 802-665), covering the rubber seal. Note there is a left and a right to these.

If you break a screw, use a dremel to cut it off flush, center punch remains of screw stuck in stanchion, redrill, and do it again.

Curse loudly. This does not help, but does make you feel a bit better. (grr #%). After fixing screw hole, install corner finisher so it holds the rubber edge down tight.


Step #14 – laying frame flat and steady, check top seal channel for remnants of an old seal as before with small piece of trimmed rubber top seal. It should slide easily side to side with a bit of dish soap as a lubricant.


Step #15 – unlike the lower channel rubber, the upper channel does not have a place to start from one end and pull it across. However, this rubber is much softer and more pliable. Simply insert one edge of the seal into the channel and use a screwdriver to work the other side of the seal into the channel closest to you. Work across the channel slowly fitting the rubber in a bit at a time. Take your time.


Trim carefully at the end so it mates up nice and flush with the top of the stanchion.


Step 16 - Clean up and install windshield mounts onto the car body, and install completed frame assembly using the dzus fasteners.



Step #17 – open your favorite beverage and stand back and admire your work!
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Great Pumpkin
This is excellent. Bravo on the success.

One thing I noticed on mine: after I finished, the rubber seal (bottom of frame to scuttle) didn't actually touch the scuttle. About 1/4" gap, even tho' I followed the TRF instructions.

Thanks for documenting the step by step.

(oops - posted before you were finished ...)


Jedi Warrior
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Hmm. Maybe TRF has changed the seal length. I had a good 1-2" extra on each side. Easy enough to loose measure before you start cutting though.

The small slider test fit piece cut off one end of the seal to check for blockages in the channel before pulling the seal across is critical though. I found several small remnants of old hardened rubber that prevented me from originally pulling the piece across. That was despite the frames being hot tanked and dipped for cleaning before the chroming process. It was the "voila" turning point moment of the whole project, and it's the most important tip in the whole write up.


Great Pumpkin
Thanks. The length wasn't the problem. But the lip of that bottom seal is about 1/4" above the scuttle - so there's an air gap.

By the way, I did the same thing you did on that top seal. Had to poke out all the old seal in the channel. I didn't have a re-chrome job - I just replaced the seals. Getting all that top seal out of the channel was a total PITA. I used the "poke the new seal into the channel" technique you used; sliding the top seal into place as others suggested sure didn't work for me.



Jedi Warrior
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NutmegCT said:
Thanks. The length wasn't the problem. But the lip of that bottom seal is about 1/4" above the scuttle - so there's an air gap.

By the way, I did the same thing you did on that top seal. Had to poke out all the old seal in the channel. I didn't have a re-chrome job - I just replaced the seals. Getting all that top seal out of the channel was a total PITA. I used the "poke the new seal into the channel" technique you used; sliding the top seal into place as others suggested sure didn't work for me.


Well, the finished assembly is not on my car yet, so the gap, or lack of, remains to be seen. I do know it's assembled correctly.

The top channel was clean for me so I wasn't removing old rubber- took about 20 minutes to get it all in. The small test piece zoomed right along side to side with some dish detergent so I knew the slot was clean. I don't see how you can slide it in as was suggested to you by others, because there is nowhere to start it.


Jedi Knight
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Great instructions on the work. Everything looks just fantastic!!

Member 10617


A fine example of what is possible on the forum. Bravo! And many thanks.


Darth Vader
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Thanks Luke. Great Instructions.



Senior Member
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Luke, when I took my windshield apart I had some metal strips in the side channels that I think the stanchion screws go into. I'd estimate they are 1/4 by 1/4 and several inches long. What is their purpose? Secondly are the Moss Corner Finishers 802-665 what you have pictured at step 13. I thought those were post 60,000 and the ones Moss had were pre 60,000. The one you have pictured is what was on my car but one is missing. Mhere did you buy your glass?


Jedi Hopeful
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On msg #2 of your windshield rebuild thread, step 16 shows your mounting plate installed on the body. Did you use a gasket or other type material as a barrier between the mount and the painted surface?


TR loco

Freshman Member
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Thanks for the very useful guidance! I just completed installing windshield glass for my 1959 TR3A.
The glazing sold by Moss and TRF were both too thick for my windshield. When I measured the thickness of the glass (0.242") and the gap in the u-channel (0.328"), I determined that the glazing thickness needed to be about 0.043", whereas the glazing I purchased was about .061" thick. I could purchase a 100' roll of glazing about .047" thick for $75 from a glass supplier. However, I discovered that the PVC shower liner used as a barrier under tiled shower floors available at Home Depot is 0.041" thick. The material is purchased by the foot and is about 5' wide.
I cut three pieces 5' long by about 2" wide. Two of the pieces went from the center at the top (small gap), turned the corner, and down the vertical sides (gussets at the corners). The third piece went across the bottom. I taped the glazing securely in place. I used a dry silicone lubricant in the u-channels and on the outside of the glazing pieces. I placed the window into the frame and pulled the assembly together using two ratchet-strap tie downs. The straps were vertical and pulled the bottom and top frames towards each other, with the glass in place. This was effective and gave me good control of the process.
Before I trimmed the glazing at the edge of the u-channels I forced sealant between the glass and the inside of the glazing, with the hope of filling any gaps. I did not want sealant between the glazing the the u-channels to make clean up easier for the next poor dude who installs glass.
My hope is that the shower liner material will be durable. It feels very tough and will not be exposed to daylight.
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