• Hi Guest! Being a Paying Supporter is NOT a requirement to participate at BCF. However, subscribing will help ensure we can continue to serve the LBC community for years to come. If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource...Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Rebuild and Assembly - Step by Step

luke44

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
TR3 Windshield Rebuild and Assembly

Here is how I went about the rebuild of the TR3 windshield. I must say, I was a bit apprehensive about this job at first, but with a few small tricks and it turned out perfectly with very little effort. I found bits and pieces on this site about the “how to” but I felt a more detailed posting would help those who come after me.

Step #1 – Go to bank and take out small fortune in cash for chroming shop. Give consideration to selling kidney on black market as an option. Pay chrome shop, and return chromed goodies home.

Step #2 carefully unwrap the 2 windshield main frame pieces – one bow shaped piece for the main frame bottom, and one U shaped piece for the main frame. Use a thick blanket or old sleeping bag on the work table for this job.
7755040292_3f18f2b10c_z.jpg


Step #3 – wrap windshield glazing seal Moss p/n 680-455 seal around glass, centering on both sides of the glass. Do not try to insert the seal into the frame and slide glass into frame. Tape seal to glass with duct tape to pull it tight and keep it in place.

7755040214_784920fac4_z.jpg


Do NOT do this.
7755040146_5420c2d7e9_z.jpg


Do THIS instead.
7755040030_1e3462dbf7_z.jpg


Step #4 – slide glass/seal into u shaped frame, pushing firmly into bottom of U shaped frame piece. Temporarily check the bottom piece for fit. Trim the excess rubber seal with a box cutter off the windshield. This can also be done later if you wish.
7755039722_77cb2f15d9_z.jpg


Step #5 - cut off a small piece of the bottom rubber seal (the seal that goes between windshield bottom and scuttle) – Moss p/n 680-470 that goes into the bottom frame channel – the piece should be approx ½” wide. The TRF piece is marked to distinguish front and back so make note of this to not insert backwards later. Don’t worry about shortening it ½”, there’s plenty there.

7755071658_9f8ac0ae1c_z.jpg


Step #6 – squirt liquid laundry soap into the lower bow channel full length, and the insert the small piece of ½” wide seal into channel from one end and pull it along to be sure it goes smoothly from one end to the other. If it stops along the way this means there is likely some pieces or small remnants of the old rubber deep under the channel lip that must be removed – check carefully and clean the channel groove with a box cutter or knife or whatever to remove old hardened rubber, until the ½” piece slides freely from aide to side. This may not e visible at first because the old rubber is likely under the channel slot.

Step #7 – screw in L shaped brackets Moss p/n 802-675 onto frame and screw frame bottom (with previously installed rubber seal like in step #3) to U shaped main frame. Check to make sure everything pulls together tight. Because you are working with the frame upside down, have an assistant hold the frame steady from this point on.

7755039822_13448528c7_z.jpg


Step #8 – now loosen up both sides side of the L bracket so the bottom frame channel is not sitting tight against the side U channel. Start to feed the rubber seal in from one end and pull it across to the other side. Use lots of dish detergent. It will pull easily with some assistance from a set of pliers. Do not try to take a picture of this because your assistant is using both hands to steady the frame and you are using both hands to coax the rubber along. If you want a picture here, you need another assistant.

Step #9 –cut the rubber seal so it is flush with the end of the chrome side frame. It can be a bit longish, as it will get trimmed later, just don’t cut it too short. But it also must not interfere with the fit of the stanchion.

7755084136_616449459f_z.jpg


Step #10 – tighten the L brackets back up so you have the 4 sides of the windshield frame tight.

Step # 11 – mount the left and right windshield stanchions (802-690) and tenon plates Moss p/n 680-470 onto the side of the w/s frame – 3 screws – 2 short 7/8”, 1 long 1” each side. Long screw at the bottom where stanchion is thicker. Do NOT use the long screw in the top 2 holes or you WILL crack the windshield!
 
Last edited:
OP
luke44

luke44

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
TR3 Windshield Assembly Step by Step – Part 2

Step #12 – turn the windshield onto its front side down and angle-trim the bottom seal edge so it is now a tad shorter at the top than the stanchion.
7755039178_b11deb159d_z.jpg


Step #13 – install the corner finisher (Moss p/n 802-665), covering the rubber seal. Note there is a left and a right to these.
7755107560_8e62d9542c_z.jpg


If you break a screw, use a dremel to cut it off flush, center punch remains of screw stuck in stanchion, redrill, and do it again.

Curse loudly. This does not help, but does make you feel a bit better. (grr #%). After fixing screw hole, install corner finisher so it holds the rubber edge down tight.
7755038988_253fbeb2b5_z.jpg


7755039086_613e17a984_z.jpg



Step #14 – laying frame flat and steady, check top seal channel for remnants of an old seal as before with small piece of trimmed rubber top seal. It should slide easily side to side with a bit of dish soap as a lubricant.

7755038754_796c5ac219_z.jpg


Step #15 – unlike the lower channel rubber, the upper channel does not have a place to start from one end and pull it across. However, this rubber is much softer and more pliable. Simply insert one edge of the seal into the channel and use a screwdriver to work the other side of the seal into the channel closest to you. Work across the channel slowly fitting the rubber in a bit at a time. Take your time.
7755038566_4c58335e01_z.jpg


7755038650_55f59d1464_z.jpg




Trim carefully at the end so it mates up nice and flush with the top of the stanchion.

7755037562_522a3341a3_z.jpg


Step 16 - Clean up and install windshield mounts onto the car body, and install completed frame assembly using the dzus fasteners.

7755131104_696d31e0f7_z.jpg


7755038374_23c8301684_z.jpg



Step #17 – open your favorite beverage and stand back and admire your work!
 
Last edited:

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
Online
This is excellent. Bravo on the success.

One thing I noticed on mine: after I finished, the rubber seal (bottom of frame to scuttle) didn't actually touch the scuttle. About 1/4" gap, even tho' I followed the TRF instructions.

Thanks for documenting the step by step.

Tom
(oops - posted before you were finished ...)
 
OP
luke44

luke44

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Hmm. Maybe TRF has changed the seal length. I had a good 1-2" extra on each side. Easy enough to loose measure before you start cutting though.

The small slider test fit piece cut off one end of the seal to check for blockages in the channel before pulling the seal across is critical though. I found several small remnants of old hardened rubber that prevented me from originally pulling the piece across. That was despite the frames being hot tanked and dipped for cleaning before the chroming process. It was the "voila" turning point moment of the whole project, and it's the most important tip in the whole write up.
 

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
Online
Thanks. The length wasn't the problem. But the lip of that bottom seal is about 1/4" above the scuttle - so there's an air gap.

By the way, I did the same thing you did on that top seal. Had to poke out all the old seal in the channel. I didn't have a re-chrome job - I just replaced the seals. Getting all that top seal out of the channel was a total PITA. I used the "poke the new seal into the channel" technique you used; sliding the top seal into place as others suggested sure didn't work for me.

Tom
 
OP
luke44

luke44

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
NutmegCT said:
Thanks. The length wasn't the problem. But the lip of that bottom seal is about 1/4" above the scuttle - so there's an air gap.

By the way, I did the same thing you did on that top seal. Had to poke out all the old seal in the channel. I didn't have a re-chrome job - I just replaced the seals. Getting all that top seal out of the channel was a total PITA. I used the "poke the new seal into the channel" technique you used; sliding the top seal into place as others suggested sure didn't work for me.

Tom

Well, the finished assembly is not on my car yet, so the gap, or lack of, remains to be seen. I do know it's assembled correctly.

The top channel was clean for me so I wasn't removing old rubber- took about 20 minutes to get it all in. The small test piece zoomed right along side to side with some dish detergent so I knew the slot was clean. I don't see how you can slide it in as was suggested to you by others, because there is nowhere to start it.
 

tinman58

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Luke
Great instructions on the work. Everything looks just fantastic!!
 
M

Member 10617

Guest
Guest
Offline
Luke,

A fine example of what is possible on the forum. Bravo! And many thanks.
 

M_Pied_Lourd

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
Thanks Luke. Great Instructions.


Cheers,
Tush
 

Arrow

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
Luke, when I took my windshield apart I had some metal strips in the side channels that I think the stanchion screws go into. I'd estimate they are 1/4 by 1/4 and several inches long. What is their purpose? Secondly are the Moss Corner Finishers 802-665 what you have pictured at step 13. I thought those were post 60,000 and the ones Moss had were pre 60,000. The one you have pictured is what was on my car but one is missing. Mhere did you buy your glass?
 

RC64

Jedi Hopeful
Country flag
Offline
Bruce...

On msg #2 of your windshield rebuild thread, step 16 shows your mounting plate installed on the body. Did you use a gasket or other type material as a barrier between the mount and the painted surface?

Rick...
 

TR loco

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
Thanks for the very useful guidance! I just completed installing windshield glass for my 1959 TR3A.
The glazing sold by Moss and TRF were both too thick for my windshield. When I measured the thickness of the glass (0.242") and the gap in the u-channel (0.328"), I determined that the glazing thickness needed to be about 0.043", whereas the glazing I purchased was about .061" thick. I could purchase a 100' roll of glazing about .047" thick for $75 from a glass supplier. However, I discovered that the PVC shower liner used as a barrier under tiled shower floors available at Home Depot is 0.041" thick. The material is purchased by the foot and is about 5' wide.
I cut three pieces 5' long by about 2" wide. Two of the pieces went from the center at the top (small gap), turned the corner, and down the vertical sides (gussets at the corners). The third piece went across the bottom. I taped the glazing securely in place. I used a dry silicone lubricant in the u-channels and on the outside of the glazing pieces. I placed the window into the frame and pulled the assembly together using two ratchet-strap tie downs. The straps were vertical and pulled the bottom and top frames towards each other, with the glass in place. This was effective and gave me good control of the process.
Before I trimmed the glazing at the edge of the u-channels I forced sealant between the glass and the inside of the glazing, with the hope of filling any gaps. I did not want sealant between the glazing the the u-channels to make clean up easier for the next poor dude who installs glass.
My hope is that the shower liner material will be durable. It feels very tough and will not be exposed to daylight.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
N TR2/3/3A TR3 windshield Triumph 2
N TR3 Windshield FORUM Help 0
Lbp TR2/3/3A Question about TR3 Rubber Windshield Seal Triumph 9
Tinkerman TR2/3/3A Windshield glazing TR3 A 1960 Triumph 7
D TR2/3/3A tr3 windshield Tenax fasteners Triumph 2
luke44 TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Stanchion Short Screws Long Screws Triumph 2
6 TR2/3/3A TR3 windscreen/windshield glass Triumph 5
M TR2/3/3A My own TR3 windshield question? Triumph 5
J TR2/3/3A TR3 windshield angle and body shims Triumph 11
O TR2/3/3A TR3 Turn Signal Retrofit / Windshield Screws? Triumph 7
O TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield to Scuttle Mounting Triumph 1
S TR2/3/3A windshield wipers tr3 Triumph 1
T TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield washer pump Triumph 14
B TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Wiper Tubing Triumph 5
Marvin Gruber TR4/4A Windshield motors TR3 & TR4 Triumph 2
AngliaGT TR2/3/3A New Windshield for TR2,TR3 $150 Triumph 2
S TR2/3/3A windshield post 60k tr3 Triumph 10
O TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Glass Replacement Triumph 2
mountainman TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Center Support Triumph 1
G TR2/3/3A TR3 windshield corner finishers Triumph 4
O TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Replacement Triumph 4
G TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield size question Triumph 2
G TR2/3/3A TR3 windshield isntall Triumph 11
B TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield-[screen]? Holder on'r thingy remove Triumph 6
G TR2/3/3A TR3 windshield assembly sequence Triumph 9
mrv8q TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Stanchion Q Triumph 6
D TR2/3/3A TR3 post 60000 windshield stanchion guide plates Triumph 5
M TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Frame Triumph 2
bmurphy7369 TR2/3/3A TR3 Windshield Stanchion Guide Plates? Triumph 22
G TR2/3/3A TR3 windshield disassembly Triumph 3
1 TR3 Fender spats sold on EBay. Triumph 0
J TR2/3/3A What size speedi-sleeve needed for pinion seal on a TR3? Triumph 6
T For Sale Free - Body Jig for TR3/TR3A Triumph Classifieds 0
J TR2/3/3A TR3 engine cylinder top clearance Triumph 22
BillyB62 TR2/3/3A Looking for the Owner of a TR3 Triumph 5
Pool Dad 1960 TR3 engine serial number Triumph 14
T TR2/3/3A TR3 coolant hoses Triumph 2
T TR2/3/3A Has anyone designed a hand brake warning light for the TR3? Triumph 3
J TR2/3/3A "TR3" painted on the engine block Triumph 13
J TR2/3/3A TR3 Rear seat Triumph 11
D Socket for TR3 Gear box drain plug Restoration & Tools 6
J TR2/3/3A TR3 gas tank mystery Triumph 5
T Wanted Wanted - 1956 TR3 Crankshaft Triumph Classifieds 0
jfarris TR2/3/3A Venture into the "dark side," Miata seats in a TR3 Triumph 2
T TR2/3/3A Question on old radio from my TR3 Triumph 9
T TR2/3/3A tr3 front carpet replacement Triumph 5
T TR2/3/3A Should there be a body ground strap to battery on TR3 Triumph 7
G For Sale: Triumph TR2, TR3, TR3A Sheet Metal Body Parts – Front Apron (valence) with grille, Bonnet (hood), Doors, Boot (trunk) Deck Lid Triumph Classifieds 3
G For Sale: Triumph TR2, TR3, TR3A, TR3B Factory Steel Hardtop, New Rear window, Partial Bracket Set Triumph Classifieds 2
A TR2/3/3A Early TR3 starter (bomb style) bushings sizes Triumph 5

Similar threads

Top