• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 throttle linkage bell crank.

Share this page

D

DavidApp

Yoda
Country flag
Offline
During the restoration of my TR3A I found that there was a lot of wear in the throttle linkage at the bell crank mounted on the manifold. My parts kit car came with 2 bell crank link assemblies both worn.
I ordered both the bell crank and pivot for the bell crank from one of the normal parts houses. When it arrived there were several issues with it.
First the holes where the link rod assemblies screw in were not threaded. They were just pilot holes.
Second the bell crank has unequal legs so if the boss is welded on the wrong side the bell crank does not fit.
Third the pivot was not for a TR3A, Maybe for a TR2 but not the TR3A
When I contacted the supplier I was told the holes are done that way so you can thread to suit your application. When I asked about the other problems I was told that they were always like that.
So I managed to make a workable unit from my 2 assemblies and a washer to take up some slop.

I have now got a 3 in 1 Lathe/Mill/Drill so I made my own Bell crank and pivot. I had thought about adding an oilite bush to make it last longer.
Going to put it on the car next week.

David
bell crank assembly 2.jpg
bell crank assembly.jpg
 
GREAT JOB I need to do the same with my TR 6 not so much tooling I may be able to oversize and add bushing. I will post my fix
 
Very Nice! Even having the minimal ability to machine simple parts comes in really handy.
 
I have added a brass washer between the bell crank and pivot.

Anyone else had the issue that the pivot bracket supplied looks like the drawing in the Moss catalogue and does not fit the TR3 manifold?

David
 
Looks nice. I also have some simple machine tools, a Sherline mill and lathe. They have been really useful.

I also found the bellcrank in my TR4A to be pretty worn. I was able to fix it with a little machining, improving the throttle control.
 
The one on the right is correct for my TR3A and the one on the left is what I got from the supplier who said that is all they sell.

David
pivot brackets.jpg
 
I installed my home made bell crank assembly a few days ago and it is a great improvement on the one I made to work with washers to take up the slop.
While I had the carbs off the engine I decided to fix the leaking float bowl grommets on the front carb. I had ordered new grommets from TRF. Put them on and found it still leaks.
I removed the carbs again and checked that I had grommets centered on the float bowl neck and reassembled it again.
Still leaks.

Any ideas on what I am missing.

David
 
I'm experiencing the same in my bell crank on my 59 TR3. I have a spare that is also sloppy and shimmed it with another washer. That seems to work and hopefully will not shear off the cotter pin. I measured the ID and OD of the crank pivot and the post. They seem to be 7.8mmm for the post and 8.0mm for the crank bushing.
 
Last edited:
RichB4493 said:
I'm experiencing the same in my bell crank on my 59 TR3. I have a spare that is also sloppy and shimmed it with another washer. That seems to work and hopefully will not shear off the cotter pin. I measured the ID and OD of the crank pivot and the post. They seem to be 7.8mmm for the post and 8.0mm for the crank bushing.
Click to expand...
Who was that posted on here awhile ago that he had made a number of bell cranks and had a few for sale? Wonder if he would make a few more? I could sure use a good one.
 
That was me.

I do still have a few on hand. I have media blasted these ones to get a more consistent look. Would probable take paint well.

I have been getting $50.00 plus shipping for them.

Send me a PM if you are interested.

David
Bellcrank.jpg
 
RichB

I think you may have your bellcrank mounted backwards. I think the wider boss should be on the outside away from the engine. That puts the longer leg at 6.00 clock and the shorter leg at 2.30.

David
 
When I was making the bellcranks I did consider a bushing but could not find a suitable thin wall bushing.

David
 
Back
Top