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Tie Rod - Engine: What is it and where does it go?

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B

blueskies

Jedi Warrior
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I'm back at the 100-6, assembling accessories onto the engine block and transmission in preparation for installing these parts into the chassis.

Moss catalog under Gearbox Mountings, has part no. 807-100, described as Tie Rod, Engine. I have a few of these in the pile of parts but have no idea where they go or what they do. Can someone help me out with this?

Also, a question about the push rod length for the slave cylinder. I bought a new slave cylinder and push rod from Moss, supposedly correct for this car. The push rod is about 1/2" shorter than several old ones in the parts pile. Wondering if this will have to come apart again when I find that the clutch does not engage?? Or maybe the Moss innards in the slave cylinder require the shorter push rod?? Here's hoping.
 
The tie rod goes on the bottom of the gearbox/OD and connects to the bracket welded to the X piece in the chassis . It has rubber bushings and works together with the gearbox mounts and rebound rubber to keep everything stable under the torque of the engine .
 
Pictures speak a thousand words . Tie rod bottom left .
 
Thanks, Healey Nut. That makes sense. Now I need to order a couple of bushings for the tie rod and the two transmission mounts for the rear of the transmission. Don't know how I missed them in the parts order. I wonder if anyone in Canada has them?
 
Autofarm has all that stuff .
 
Healey Nut said:
The tie rod goes on the bottom of the gearbox/OD and connects to the bracket welded to the X piece in the chassis . It has rubber bushings and works together with the gearbox mounts and rebound rubber to keep everything stable under the torque of the engine .
Click to expand...

More precisely, the tie rod prevents fore and aft movement so when your motor and tranny mounts get all soft and squishy from all the oil sprayed on them over the years and you come to a panic stop, the fan doesn't plow into the radiator chewing it to shreds. :jester:
 
More precisely, the tie rod prevents fore and aft movement so when your motor and tranny mounts get all soft and squishy from all the oil sprayed on them over the years and you come to a panic stop, the fan doesn't plow into the radiator chewing it to shreds. :jester:
Rick "U" Wanna BET----:highly_amused:

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I replaced my tie rod bushings with the urethane ones used for the anti-sway bar. They're not so affected by oil.
 
Thanks guys. How about part two of my original question, regarding the slave cylinder rod length? Any thoughts about that?
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Those are the coolest jamb nuts I've ever seen.
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I have this thing for flanged hardware, even better if the undersides are serrated!

The tie rod in my picture (the one on my car) was repaired, in that I welded a piece of 3/8 x 18 (NC) all-thread on to replace the damaged 3/8 x 24 (NF). While I do have some B-9 all-thread on hand (hardened 3/8 x 24) I didn't have the flanged nuts to go with it.

The thin washer between the pairs of jamb nuts is an internal 10-point star lock washer; I'm pretty confident my original settings on that will remain intact, though I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check on the condition of the bushings from time to time ;)

BMW uses LOTS of really nice hardware on their cars, if you can use Metric sizes; lots of bolts and nuts available with flanges, captive washers, copper-plated and crimped locknuts. Amazingly enough, their hardware__amoratized over millions of cars__is really pretty inexpensive, providing you find a dealer selling at true list price (or discounted). Thinks like Inconel bolts for exhaust flanges on the other hand, can be spendy! In part because I keep a large assortment of new hardware on hand (let alone saved bolts and nuts off the cars, tumbled & oiled) I tend to use BMW hardware for all kinds of shop & house projects too.
 
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