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Tips
Tips

Throttle return springs...

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Sorry forgot.

Cable should have a lil slack, bout a sixteenth to an eight of an inch is fine.

Patrick
 
lessee if this works:
275910-linkage2.jpg
 
sorry doc might work but it is not the way it is supposed to be. The bracket on the throttle shaft needs to be turned 180 degrees with the "gap" end towards the heat shield
 
Patrick, going by the manual the short end of the spring attaches to the heat shield although I don't think it would make any difference
 
Now I gotta go look at a Spridget linkage again! from Baz's top photo it looks like the only thing that can happen is the cable pulls the bottom of the crescent up to hit the shield before WOT is even close to achieved. slacking off the pinch clamps at the throttle shafts and adjusting the gap 'tween shield and top of the 'crescent' to 12 thou' doesn't appear to allow much more. gawd...now I'll be Susan! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
The "Crescent" moves the other way, Doc. Away from the shield. The .012" clearance between the link and the shield is to insure that the throttle is fully closed before the link contacts the shield.
Jeff
 
But doesn't the bottom bit hit the shield before it will allow full throttle?

...BTW; mornin' Jeff! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
Dear Baz,

Set the gap between shield and top of crescent at 0.012", adjust slack from cable, press on.

Love,
Susan
 
Shoot on the .012 just give it a bit of space. In over 30 years of messing with these I never heard of useing a feeler gage, someone smokeing some strange weed out there.

Make sure the movement goes from idle to full open where ever you afix it and go for a drive.
 
My crescent only has one hole, and it's apparent that is for the spring.
One observation I just made.
The new spacers are a little shorter than the old, possibly not giving it the room it needs to come up.....
I'll put it back together per pics and see, then replace the spacers if necessary.
My back is killing me.
 
I suspect that the spacers could cause a prob at that, never considered it.
 
Barry where is your throttle cable fastened to in your pics? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Springs and cables appear to working OK now, all looks and feels good.
HOWEVER.
It won't start. Gas coming out the carbs.
 
I'm going to read some knitting magazines, take a nap, chew on a bottle of ensure and sit in the corner and order some webers.
3 days of monkeying around with these obsolete monstrosities have done me in.
 
Some days I feel that way too except I just go and make a couple of muskoka/adirondac chairs to relieve the tension.
 
I've heard the Webers are even more complicated as far as setup goes. Take a few days away from it, and then come back and it will all be better.
 
Tap on the top of the float bowls with the handle of a plastic handled screwdriver to jiggle the floats and needle valve. Don't use a wood handled screwdriver! They don't contain the same magic /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Phil
 
Something!
#2 coughed at me, spurted some whiteish smoke. Only drools gas with the choke out so I abandoned that, pumping the pedal however gave it a splutter. It's been a couple of months since it started last and it's had a complete head rebuild, so this is encouraging.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif Phil.
Would starting fluid help it? I'm in danger of running the battery down.
Let me know when I can tap it with the metal side of a hammer.
 
Bah, no pump on an SU carb. Tap the sides of the float bowles with a plastic handled screw driver. Pull choke out a bit and start your car, about a third of the accelerator.

A bit of starter fluid is not a problem, just do not do it often.
 
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