• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

T-Series TD Door Hinges: just what is the difference between right and left?

Share this page

P

parkerstudio

Freshman Member
Offline
Hi Folks:
A newbie here. I would like to know just what the difference between the right and left door hinges on the MG TD is? Are they the same castings and the hinge pins are just put in from different sides, or are their shapes more complicated than that? Has anyone ever compared sets right and left? The reason I'm asking is because I'm rebuilding a basket case TD, which only has its driver's side, or left hinges and I'm looking for a pair of rights. When shopping for rights, I won't be able to tell rights from lefts otherwise. Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome,
if you are doing coach work, purchase a new set. It is a critical that the door and timbers are right.
Best to start with new.
 
The top and bottom hinges are different! Bottom hinges has two screw holes, top has three. Right and left is determined by which way the pin is installed. PJ
 
I forgot to ad, the doors on a T series MG are the toughest item on the car to get right. As was suggested before, do your self a favor and start with new hinges. Not cheap, but being made of brass, old ones get distorted very easily after 60 years. To get the doors to close properly, shimming of the body in various places is a must and the shim points will vary in thickness. The latches are another story getting them to latch fully in the hole. I don't envy you on that point. The fun is just beginning. PJ
 
The TC/TD door latches were possibly the worst latches ever fitted to a car. They loosen, hang down, refuse to latch, pop open, etc. I ought to know. I've owned 3 TDs, one restored by me in 1974. I clearly remember a race at Brynfan tydden in Pennsylvania back in the late '50s where the driver door unlatched on a TC during the race and the suicide door blew open. The TC was being driven by an old friend and high school classmate of mine.
 
I do not have any problem with the latches. They were fitted to a number of vehicles back in the day....AC Bristol's and Cobras to name a few.
problem usually is old timbers, over drilled/stripped holes, etc.
 
With all that knowledge, I'm kinda surprised you didn't know about the hinges. PJ
 
No need to spill all the info. Was sterling the OP to the correct solution. I have done more T series cars than I would like to count. Just finished building the coach work for a Riley Gamecock.
Is that enough for you?
 
The drivers door on my 51 TD came open on the freeway at 60 mph. It broke the bar that stops the door from opening to far and the door hit my back fender and tire, leaving a black mark on the door.I here that some people install a strap that won't let the door open but about 2".
 
One more comment, if the doors are set properly and fit snug, the latches are fine if, when the doors are closed, the latch pin drops fully in the striker plate hole, leaving no play on the inside latch lever. If the latch and striker plates are as they should be, you can push the door closed and hear the latch snap the pin in the hole, the doors should never open accidentally. I can close my doors just by pushing on them and hear the latches slam all the way home. Took some time to get them that way, but well worth the effort. PJ
 
On my 2nd TD - a '52 Mark II - a PO had drilled holes clean through the body and installed long bolts and nuts to hold the latch in place. No more problems. That MK II had an engine-turned aluminum dash panel over the wood. Looked great but you'd get blinded by the sun at certain angles. Not a great idea. It had also been "supertuned" by a PO who had installed an enormous Ford Holley carburetor getting 16 mpg. I took it off and replaced it with 1 1/2" SUs. Only owned it for 6 months - traded it in on a new TR3. But that's a story for another day.
 
Back
Top