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steering column sliding

dkritter

Freshman Member
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On my 1972 TR6 if you were to pull axially on the steering wheel, you can pull it out about 1/2" inches. I've located where the movement is occurring.

It's where the splined end of the lower steering column shaft goes into the universal joint. There is a clamping mechanism that it goes into but I've tried to tighten it and it's as tight as it will go.

There does not seem to be any movement side to side (like slop) only axially.

My question is: Is this the way it should be or should I be trying to figure out how to prevent this movement?

Thanks

DK
 

Andrew Mace

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What have you tightened? There is an allen-head bolt with a locknut on it, on one of the clamps as well as the splined connectors further down.

Note that this column is in fact designed to "telescope" to some degree, unless one has adjusted it to the very bottom of its travel.

Note further that this "Impact-o-scopic" column dates back to the first Heralds in 1959 and survived through to 1976 in the Herald-based cars and in the TR4-TR6 range, AND it apparently met US safety standards (in its original 1959 form) all those years!
 
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dkritter

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hi and thanks.

I do realize the sliding nature of the column. However, this is sliding where the male splined end of the lower shaft mates with the female splined end of the universal joint right above the steering gear mechanism. There is a "C" type fitting (part of the universal joint) with a bolt going through it (not an allen head type)to squeeze the clamp around the splined end of the lower shaft. But it only tightens so far. If it were to slip out beyond an inch, there would be not steering.

DK
 
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Deleted member 3577

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Isn't it nice to have the warning (1/2" slack) before it goes.....

Newer types only have the set screw/lock nut type thing.(or 2)

I MUCH prefer the bolt that goes ALL the way through.

Sounds like your bolt is damaged.
Pull it out and replace it with a grade 8 or preferably an AN bolt w/ a castellated nut & cotter pin.

BTW....The Elva has the same sort of clamp except it is welded to a 1" tube that goes STRAIGHT to the steering wheel. (non-collapsible, no universal, donut or anything....STRAIGHT!) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

Andrew Mace

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It could well be that the bolt is damaged. Hopefully there is no damage to the splines on either column or joint. But I heartily agree that loss steering is a bad thing! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Presumably there is no rotational play? I'd be tempted to replace the clamp assembly and the lower column if there were any evidence of same.
 
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Deleted member 3577

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[ QUOTE ]
I'd be tempted to replace the clamp assembly and the lower column if there were any evidence of same.

[/ QUOTE ] /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif

I saw a whole pile of used ones the last time i was here.
https://www.teamtriumph.com/

Personally I'd buy new so long as they aren't Chinese made.
(40 year old Brit. edges out new Chinese)
 
G

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Just recently tightened mine. Had the same symptoms. The lower part was a new TRF rebuild and had good splines. Just replace the bolt with a good #8 grade as suggested above and crank hard . It will tighten down. Do check your splines, there really is no reason for them to be worn beyond use. I would put stopping and steering up there at the top. Going would be a distant second.


Bill
 

roger_abbott

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Replace the flex coupling. It comes with the proper grade bolts. It is a 30 minute job and improves steering (not to mention safety) tremendously. $44.95 at Vicky Brit. Cheap price to pay for going where you want to.
 
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dkritter

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Thanks,

I will take it apart to see whats keeping it from tightening and replace the bolt with a grade 8 and tighten. We'll see where that takes me
 

Flinkly

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to make you feel better in the mean time, the steering shaft won't (shouldn't) come all the way out without removing the bolt that you are talking about. trust me, i've tried. there is a nice little groove on the end of the shaft that the bolt slides past on it's way to the other side.
 
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