Steering Box Replacement

[steveg]

Collapsable steering column = no trafficator = no 'self cancelling' feature... Also the biggest downside to rack & pinion IMO.
Dave

Exactly right. Will take my chances with the stock column. Self-cancelling doesn't work too well on mine, but it's convenient having the trafficator in the steering hub.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I received mine yesterday--after Customs shook me down for $75--and just got it on the bench today:





It'll be a while before I can get it installed--thanks to all that replied to my inquiry--but can provide some 'first impressions:'

• Turning the shaft by the steering wheel end, there is no discernible play; you turn the shaft, the rocker starts to turn (can only turn the wheel about 3/4 turn due to the protective wrap)
• The steering 'feel' is smooth as can be, no hint of binding, looseness or change in feel
• Comes with a liter of steering box oil which, of course, will be impossible to find in the 'States
• Item was well-packed

 

[AUSMHLY]

66 BJ8 steering box leaking down the steering lever splined shaft. Noticed the dust oil seal cover is missing too. No leaks at the olive nor end cover. Would sucking out what ever oil (90w?) is in the box and replacing it with the thicker steering box oil (Steering box lube by Dynolite) stop the leaking? Can the foam dust oil seal cover be cut in half in order to install with out having to take the steering lever off? Then using contact cement, glue the cut back together? I'm assuming the foam seal is only for dust protection, not sealing the oil. Is it really necessary? Notice there is a dent in the outer steering column where it attaches to the box. No leak, there. Should there be concern?

 

[Healey Nut]

Time for some cornhead grease .

 

[steveg]

>>>66 BJ8 steering box leaking down the steering lever splined shaft. Noticed the dust oil seal cover is missing too. No leaks at the olive nor end cover. Would sucking out what ever oil (90w?) is in the box and replacing it with the thicker steering box oil (Steering box lube by Dynamite) stop the leaking?
Good possibility - others have had stop-leak success. Loosen bolts in front about 1/8" and allow oil to drip out. Don't loosen too far or you may mess up the rear bearing. Ask me how I know. (Edit: Bob S has suggested as long as steering wheel is in place, column shouldn't slip down far enough to affect seating of rear bearing.)

When you're filling the box be sure to operate the steering lock-to-lock a few times so the grease settles all the way in.

Can the foam dust oil seal cover be cut in half in order to install with out having to take the steering lever off?
Yes. Just one slice through one side of it and it should wrap OK. Glue it with a zip tie or twist ties to hold it.

Then using contact cement, glue the cut back together? I'm assuming the foam seal is only for dust protection, not sealing the oil.
Dust only
Is it really necessary? Notice there is a dent in the outer steering column where it attaches to the box. No leak, there. Should there be concern?
If it wasn't necessary, the engineers would have left it out.
No leak and no steering interference, no problem.

 

[Rob Glasgow]

I concur with Steve. I replaced the oil with Penrite and it stopped the leaks. During my restoration, I removed the streering column and replaced the original seal on the steering box with a double stack of two new seals. Also I replaced the dust seal on the box when I had the steering arm off. On the idler side, I cut the dust seal as Steve suggested and glued it back together with contact cement.

 

[AUSMHLY]

"Loosen bolts in front about 1/8" and allow oil to drip out. Don't loosen too far or you may mess up the rear bearing. Ask me how I know."

"(Edit: Bob S has suggested as long as steering wheel is in place, column shouldn't slip down far enough to affect seating of rear bearing.)"

To be clear, as long as I don't remove the steering wheel, I can completely remove the box cover end, shim(s), gasket, olive and nut?

Being I'm trying to remove all the 90w oil, I'm figuring the best way is to let it drip out of the front of the box and use a suction pump in the box. Once I have as much oil out as possible, do I refill with the Dynolite? Or should I first use some sort of solvent to flush? If so, what is recommended ?

 

[John Turney]

No, just loosen the fron bolts about 1/8" as Steve suggests. Give it time and it will drip out.

 

[steveg]

Wouldn't flush unless there's something like wheel bearing grease in there, which you'd have to dilute to get it to run out.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

...

To be clear, as long as I don't remove the steering wheel, I can completely remove the box cover end, shim(s), gasket, olive and nut?

Being I'm trying to remove all the 90w oil, I'm figuring the best way is to let it drip out of the front of the box and use a suction pump in the box. Once I have as much oil out as possible, do I refill with the Dynolite? Or should I first use some sort of solvent to flush? If so, what is recommended ?

OK, since I started this I'll qualify. I had the steering wheel off my BN2 to install a Mike Lempert custom. I don't recall why I opened the box--trying to fix a leak, maybe--but with the front cover and the wheel off the worm and shaft slid forward. I tried to jam them back in and destroyed the caged bearings at the top of the worm. I have not tried removing the front cover with the wheel in place, but since the steering wheel is held on with a large nut whose purpose, I presume, is to prevent the wheel from coming off in your hands during a corner and, in this case, the wheel is not adjustable I believe the steering wheel would keep the worm from sliding forward. IOW, the shaft and wheel are a connected unit, for obvious reasons. If the hub is fixed, the shaft shouldn't move forward. My recommendation, if you don't need to remove the steering wheel, is to open the front cover slowly, and watch the worm to verify it isn't moving towards the front. If the car has an adjustable steering wheel, the wheel should be locked in the most rearward position (meaning it would likely be under your chin while driving).

The end play of the steering shaft, and its location to the peg in the rocker, is set by shims and a gasket on the end cover. You might want to replace the gasket with one of the same thickness, though I've always wondered 'Why have a paper gasket under a stack of metal shims,' and have successfully stopped leaking around the by putting some sealant on both sides of all the shims and the gasket.

re: "... do I refill with the Dynolite?"

I coulda swore I read 'Dynamite,' so checked the email notification and I'm not crazy (at least not yet).

EDIT: On second thought, I think with adjustable steering wheel you'd want the wheel all the way forward and locked-down. Proceed cautiously.

 

[twas_brillig]

We have a Meyers Manx clone dune buggy based on a 1962 VW Beetle chassis. I replaced the original steering system with a collapsible column from a later Beetle, which utilized a 'honeycomb' section welded in as part of the column. It is hollow, so could handle trafficator wires etc. Does anyone have any knowledge/thoughts regards using this VW part? (See https://www.vwheritage.com/113415501e-steering-column-bare-vw-spare). (recognizing that there is a heck of a weight difference between the two cars). Doug

 

[steveg]

I think we should keep our eye on the ball here. All we're trying to do is drain the leaking 90wt out of the box so we can refill it with the heavier Dynolite grease.

There's no need to pull the front cover off, replace gaskets, etc. If it's an adjustable wheel, I wouldn't trust it to hold the steering worm shaft in place.

Just loosen the bolts (and the olive nut) about 1/8" (not more than 1/4") and let the juice drain out. Give it a day or two.

I destroyed my perfectly good steering gear exactly the same as Bob did. Hundreds of $ for a simple mistake.

 

[gonzo]

When draining the steering gear from the front plate (cracked open about 1/4 in.), either the peg or worm gear slipped. The top plate was off which may have allowed for the peg to move too. Attempts to re-assemble binds up the box. I'm working on correctly mating the peg and worm while ascertaining if the rear bearing was dislodged from the race. Is there a simple way to determine rear bearing orientation?

In hindsight this tool should have been used...arrgghh Thanks, GONZO

 

[AUSMHLY]

I did loosen the 4 bolts out about 1/4". The plate is stuck. Getting nervous about prying the plate out because I what I'm reading. I also removed the nut that holds the olive. Olive is stuck. No oil is draining out. I could grab the olive with a pair of pliers (why do we say "pair" lol) and see if I can pull it out. I'm thinking I should tighten everything back and use a suction gun to try and remove as much 90w as possible.

 

[gonzo]

AUSMHLY - Do yourself a favor and use suction gun!

 

[Novamonte]

But is it possible to get the tube past the worm and to the bottom of the box?

 

[steveg]

Gonzo,
The peg goes anywhere in the worm; the steering arm will follow. Not possible to put it in the wrong place. If it feels a little off, the rear bearing is cocked on the race. Do not use it this way, it'll eat the race. This happened to me.

With the top plate off, the rear bearing, correctly seated, looks like this.

 

[steveg]

I did loosen the 4 bolts out about 1/4". The plate is stuck. Getting nervous about prying the plate out because I what I'm reading. I also removed the nut that holds the olive. Olive is stuck. No oil is draining out. I could grab the olive with a pair of pliers (why do we say "pair" lol) and see if I can pull it out. I'm thinking I should tighten everything back and use a suction gun to try and remove as much 90w as possible.

i'd hand-tighten the bolts until they're just loose - not even 1/16". Then at the two lower corners, tap a utility knife blade slightly into the joint between the front plate and housing and gently pry the plate loose. There's nothing holding it together except crud. Try to get between things and not bung up the shim(s) or gasket. When the plate separates from the housing open up the bolts about 1/8" to let the juice drain out. The stator tube should slide out the small distance required without undoing the olive.

OTOH if you are able to get the top cover off in the car, you can remove the juice with the suction gun or a syringe and insert new grease before installing the cover. Draining will, however, allow all the 90wt to drain out, whereas you might not get as much with the suction gun.

 

[gonzo]

Steve - the pic is very helpful. The steering wheel was not removed for this job and what complicates assembly is its orientation relative to the worm and peg and thinking that it must be "centered". Will it self center? Thanks. GONZO

 

[gonzo]

But is it possible to get the tube past the worm and to the bottom of the box?

Yes. It is possible to push a flex tube to the bottom of the box. Or step the tube down with smaller diameter tubing to fit. Tubing could also be cut at an angle to suck out any remaining oil.