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Steering Box Replacement

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Bob_Spidell

Bob_Spidell

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Anybody done one in situ in a BJ8? The DWR steering box, which I had inquired about last June--I was put on a waiting list--is on its way. I've heard that getting a BJ8's grill out and in can be a bear; any advice or 'tricks?' Other gotchas?

As daunting as this task appears, it comes at a good time as my original box is leaking pretty bad, and I'd probably need to get in on the bench to remedy that anyway.
 
Bob, only the grill (slat) assembly needs removal, not the outer chrome surrounds. There are at least 6 six mounting points accessed from the rear of the shroud. Best to remove radiator for better access. The deflector will need to come out as well since it's attached to some of the grill slat frame brackets. Then the whole steering assembly can be pulled out from the front of the car. Use painter's blue tape to protect chrome and painted bits.

Looking on the bright side: the SS grill slats can now be straighten,cleaned and polished on the bench. Good luck, GONZO
 
I've had my steering box in and out several times over the past year. I rebuilt it with a new DWR worm and there were issues - another story.
Things that worked for me & comments:

--Make careful note of position of steering column sealing plates - they're asymmetrical and it's possible to get them installed incorrectly. My car had different sets of holes from previously so the exact position of the engine compartment plate was confusing. When the engine compartment plate is correct the column aligns correctly with the hole in the dash. The engine compartment plate cannot be rotated with the column installed.
Moss: Front Body Fittings, 100-6, 3000 - items 188 & 189
--Ditto the bolt position of the rear steering column aluminum split-clamp just forward of the dash.
--I bolted my box with the bolt heads outward toward the fender well. This makes it possible to remove the box in the future without removing the radiator.
screenshot.1654.jpg

--I got tired of dealing with the trafficator wire bullets going through the stator tube. I cut the wires about a foot downstream from the bullets, tinned the ends and installed an intermediate Molex connector. Now removing the trafficator is trivial.
TrafficatorMolex.jpg

--I refitted my air deflectors with U-nuts at the top points and at the bottom crossbar in order to make installation easier.
--Like to clean up the grille shroud captive nuts with a notched 1/4-28 bolt as a cleanup tap - makes it easier to run these in by hand on re-installation of grille.
screenshot.1655.jpg
 
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I've not had to R&R my steering column sealing plates when I've R&R'ed the column. I did have to look them up in the Moss catalog, though. Thank you Steve.
 
Take the splash shields out , rad deflectors out .
get the car up high enough to get underneath the front , unbolt it all and drop the grill portion out the bottom and over to one side .
 
I might be interested in a new steering box too. Are there any opinions as to the best alternative? I know that DWR supplies them, but I have also seen that AH Spares manufactures new boxes:https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/steering/steering-box-adj-lhd-new.aspx.

While in that area, should the X behind the grill be body color or black? I have purchased and read the AHCR Guidelines, but have not fins any pics or clear guidelines other that a statement that panels in the engine bay with some exceptions are body color.
 
Novamonte said:
I might be interested in a new steering box too. Are there any opinions as to the best alternative? I know that DWR supplies them, but I have also seen that AH Spares manufactures new boxes:https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/steering/steering-box-adj-lhd-new.aspx.

While in that area, should the X behind the grill be body color or black? I have purchased and read the AHCR Guidelines, but have not fins any pics or clear guidelines other that a statement that panels in the engine bay with some exceptions are body color.
Click to expand...

Brush-painted flat black.
 
I had an AHSpares 'constant clearance box' fitted about a year ago. Seems fine to me although I've never driven a DW fitted car to compare.
AJ
 
AH claims to have them made inhouse in the UK and even posts a video on the manufacturing. The housing of the DW box looks slightly different than the AH one (had a look on their websites), so perhaps they do not come from the same place.
 
Novamonte said:
AH claims to have them made inhouse in the UK and even posts a video on the manufacturing. The housing of the DW box looks slightly different than the AH one (had a look on their websites), so perhaps they do not come from the same place.
Click to expand...

At about 2:15 in the AHS video, you can see a pittman arm with a 'DWR' logo being fitted (so there's apparently some, er, 'cross-pollination' going on):

https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/steering/steering-box-adj-lhd-new.aspx#regVideo


EDIT: According to DWR, the vagaries in the Healey boxes are due largely to the box itself; Steve, did you notice any difference when you fitted the DWR worm?
 
Bob_Spidell said:
At about 2:15 in the AHS video, you can see a pittman arm with a 'DWR' logo being fitted (so there's apparently some, er, 'cross-pollination' going on):

https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/steering/steering-box-adj-lhd-new.aspx#regVideo


EDIT: According to DWR, the vagaries in the Healey boxes are due largely to the box itself; Steve, did you notice any difference when you fitted the DWR worm?
Click to expand...

Didn't detect any noticeable difference. My stock steering was pretty good until I messed it up.

I had released the front plate too far when draining the lube. When I bolted it back up, I didn't realize the rear bearing was cocked on it's race. After a while, the cocked bearing ate the worm's integral race and I elected to replace the worm, rather than buying a new box. I'd follow the latter course if I had to do it over.

I fitted the standard-ratio worm. There's also a quick-ratio worm.
 
Don't feel bad, I did the same thing on my BN2 (got away with just a new bearing, though). I think this disaster can be prevented by leaving the steering wheel on during operations on the box.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Don't feel bad, I did the same thing on my BN2 (got away with just a new bearing, though). I think this disaster can be prevented by leaving the steering wheel on during operations on the box.
Click to expand...

Good advice!

I fitted my DWR worm with a "centering sleeve" made from a piece of household electrical conduit. It prevents the rear bearing from seating cocked no matter how far the worm is withdrawn. The bearing doesn't touch it when seated on its race and there's enough clearance in the box bore so the sleeve doesn't touch there either.

BearingCenteringTube.jpg
 
Son-of-a-gun you guys are brilliant!
The shop that did a horrendous (that is spelled manhours-man-hours-man-hours=$$$; but no complaint) had had serious problems with a steering box from Southern Carburretor. My apologies for not being more specific.
On another subject: I recollect being in an auto wreckers decades ago (1970s?) and looking at an SU steering box with a collapsible column fitted to a Volvo. I may be wrong regards SU, but it was the same brand used by Healey. Can anyone advise as to whether or not it might be possible to source a collapsible box/column system from a Volvo that would fit a Healey? and apologies for sending this thread into a potentiallly different direction. Doug
 
Collapsable steering column = no trafficator = no 'self cancelling' feature... Also the biggest downside to rack & pinion IMO.
Dave
 
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