TR2/3/3A Starting my Bodywork journey.

[DavidApp]

A little history and information.

I bought the TR3 that I am working on last November. It had been dismantled by the PO sometime after 1988 and he worked on it to around 2000. He had done some body work. Replaced the floors, sills and rocker panels, also the boot floor.
When I got the car I noticed some Fiberglass repairs in the boot and around the foot wells. The Drivers side door gap is too small for the door to fit. So I am starting to investigate his work and fix his patches.
I have no bodywork experience but I do have some welding and sheet metal work experience.

I am starting out working on the Boot floor on the passenger side and the inner rear wing. Going to Summit racing near Atlanta to get some sheet metal of the correct gauge.
I have removed the PO's patch, Fiberglass and rusted floor remnants. Made a card template of my proposed replacement parts.

I am hoping to get help and advice along the way.

David

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Good Luck David.

We will help where we can.

Cheers
Tush

 

[Popeye]

Good luck! My advice: Go steady... work on the project a little each week. But also take occasional vacations from working on the car. Take lots of picutres - they not only help you remember what you did, they remind you how far you have come.

Enjoy!

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you.

Tush I watched a lot of your YouTube videos while I was negotiating for this car. They helped me get a better idea what was involved and gave me some confidence that what I was taking on is within my abilities. They were a great resource for me and I still refer back to them. Starting work on the car I realize how much extra work it must be to do the video as well. Thank you.

I am taking a lot of photos. This must have been so much harder before digital cameras.

David


David

 

[carpecursusII]

David, I have a car with these exact repairs being preformed. Buy your panels from TRF, it's worth having the right part the first time.

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you.
Just checked them out.
I think the PO used the wrong boot floor or he cut the sides off so I think I am stuck making my own patches unless I replace the floor as well.
I have got 2 repair panels but the one painted black is not the same as the car. The car has the captive nuts on the rear panel and the repair panel has the nuts on it.

I may try to fix the edge of the rear panel and keep the original panel that is bent up in the photo. The bottom of the panel is bent in a little so repairing the edge may allow me to correct the shape with steel instead of Bondo like the PO. Have to see how my welding comes along.

David

 

[Brinkerhoff]

My advice is to find out exactly where you are at in terms of real damage , not just the superficial stuff you sent pictures of. Any chassis damage? Collision damage?

 

[CJD]

When a PO reaches the limit of his ability, the fiberglass is the first thing to show up. I always love it when you can see light through your body panels.

 

[DavidApp]

I have checked the frame and it is square and there is no twist in it, no evidence of damage on the frame. I think that it is just a collection of fender benders. The bottom corner of the rear panel seems to be about 1/4" too far in. The boot lid has some repaired damage on the rear passenger side. The PO had bought a new boot lid.
The two fenders that have not been stripped are really heavy. The front one has a patch and lots of bondo. The rear one I think has a thick layer of bondo. Was told that he was getting discouraged by the rust and at some point had bought a fiberglass front clip and front wings from Moss.

David

 

[carpecursusII]

The panel you have that goes on the end is correct, the captive nuts belong on it. It may be the wrong side, I was sent the wrong side piece from Moss the first time. Pics of mine attached.

 

[DavidApp]

The Rear Apron Panel on the car has captive nuts and the new Triangular repair panel also has captive nuts. When I held the triangular panel up to the car I could see that the bottom corner of the Rear Apron had been pushed in about 1/4". If I use the new Triangular panel I will have to remove the captive nuts on the Rear Apron and probable still have to fix the flange on the Apron. With the flange off I could probable get to some of the small dents that are filled with bondo and maybe fix the pushed in bottom corner.
Going to proceed with caution.

If I can I will retain the original triangular panel as it is mainly good and only needs a small repair. That "U" shaped cut must have been done when they were fixing a fender bender.

My first repair is going to be to the bottom of the inner wing. I am going to carefully grind off the PO's repair to see what is hidden then scarf in a proper patch.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Done my first bit of Bodywork.

The patch is welded in, the welds need some more grinding but I am pleased with how it went. There are a few pin holes in the welds that I need to fill in.

David

 

[CJD]

Had to get my bearings...it's the rear inner wing. Good job!

 

[DavidApp]

Thank you John.

I am using 18 gauge sheet. Seemed like a good place to get my feet wet with bodywork. The PO has left me with some problems to fix. The other end of the same wing has some ugliness to fix.

At the moment I am not sure what to do with it.

I am paying close attention to the posts on your progress. Finding it a great help and inspiration.

David

 

[CJD]

I'll be starting the rear body next week...so for now I'm following your progress! You'll see soon that we've got similar issues going on...

 

[DavidApp]

Went out today to a sheet metal shop and got a cutoff of a sheet 0f 20 gauge steel to go with my 18 gauge sheet. Thought the thinner stuff will be a bit easier to work in some areas.

Looking at carpecursusII's photos the rear quarter suffers form rust and damage.

I can only work on one side of the car at the moment as it is on its side to save space. I will be paying close attention to your progress, I think I learn something every time I check through your thread. Am going to make an index so I can find the area I am looking for.

David

 

[DavidApp]

Having got the patch for the boot floor done I punched the drain hole in it taking the hole position from the other side and checked the old floor part. Placing the patch in the car I noticed that the hole would route the drain pipe into the boxed in section instead of outside. Looking at the photos of the old floor I can see that was the situation before I took the panels out. The passenger side stiffener panel was mounted about 1" further forward than on the drivers side. An error in the original assembly?

You can see the scribed lines where the stiffener panel was mounted.

David

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi David,

The drain hole that I have on both my 59 and 60 drains from the bottom corner of the gutter that goes through a metal tube that a plastic tube is then attached to. This tube then routes to the outside of the tub through the rear of the tail light pod (I can see the hole in your picture). I can try and get some pics tonight after work if need be.

Cheers
Tush

 

[DavidApp]

Hello Tush

Thank you.

That will help.

David

 

[CJD]

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