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TR2/3/3A Stanchion Guide

When there is no way to get vise grips on the backside of the caged nut or with a windshield I think they are welded nut with no access, you are better off to drill the head off the screw and re-tap the hole. Maybe some light tapping with an impact hammer, but you do not want to spin the nut in the cage or knock the nut off.

steve
 
Standard practice in removing Triumph bolts...

1)Wrench/screw driver
2)Impact wrench/hammer driver
3)Repeat with heat
4) Vice grips

By this point the head has broken off.

5)Drill with left hand drill bit and extractor
6)Drill completely out
7)Re-tap/replace nut

I am being completely honest when I tell you I have drilled out as many bolts on my car as I have unscrewed. Of course, now that it is restored that will not happen again.
 
+1 to penetrating oil! And if you can see (by contortions and/or a mirror and flashlight) rust, try knocking some of it off with a wire brush. Trying to drag that stuff through the nut will grind away at the female threads.

Also +1 to impact screwdrivers. The day before I got mine I didn't know they existed. The day after I got it I didn't know how I existed without one.
 
One added help for stuck caged nuts on a restoration is to take a hand carry able sandblaster pot and just blast all the rust and stuff---- out and off the nut. Then put power blaster on the freshly blasted nut and that soak.

steve
 
The nuts behind the stantion supports are welded in place on my 59 TR3A. They are not caged nuts.
I had a couple that I had to drill out. I then had to refill the holes with a MIG welder and tap in the new threads.
Charley
 
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