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TR2/3/3A Stanchion Guide

sp53

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When there is no way to get vise grips on the backside of the caged nut or with a windshield I think they are welded nut with no access, you are better off to drill the head off the screw and re-tap the hole. Maybe some light tapping with an impact hammer, but you do not want to spin the nut in the cage or knock the nut off.

steve
 

CJD

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Standard practice in removing Triumph bolts...

1)Wrench/screw driver
2)Impact wrench/hammer driver
3)Repeat with heat
4) Vice grips

By this point the head has broken off.

5)Drill with left hand drill bit and extractor
6)Drill completely out
7)Re-tap/replace nut

I am being completely honest when I tell you I have drilled out as many bolts on my car as I have unscrewed. Of course, now that it is restored that will not happen again.
 

JHaydon

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+1 to penetrating oil! And if you can see (by contortions and/or a mirror and flashlight) rust, try knocking some of it off with a wire brush. Trying to drag that stuff through the nut will grind away at the female threads.

Also +1 to impact screwdrivers. The day before I got mine I didn't know they existed. The day after I got it I didn't know how I existed without one.
 

sp53

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One added help for stuck caged nuts on a restoration is to take a hand carry able sandblaster pot and just blast all the rust and stuff---- out and off the nut. Then put power blaster on the freshly blasted nut and that soak.

steve
 

charleyf

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The nuts behind the stantion supports are welded in place on my 59 TR3A. They are not caged nuts.
I had a couple that I had to drill out. I then had to refill the holes with a MIG welder and tap in the new threads.
Charley
 
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