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SaxMan's Cylinder Head Overhaul / Head Gasket Replacement Thread
- Thread starter SaxMan
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Lots of small details knocked out tonight: New hood release cable installed, grille reinstalled, replaced a leaking hose between the coolant reservoir and radiator, and just some continued general cleaning up of the engine compartment. I'm not looking for "showroom new", just a neat appearance with the patina you'd expect from a (largely) unrestored 45 year old car. Even though I have a degreaser, I'm finding Formula 409 works just as effectively, if not more so.
While I'm waiting for the cylinder head to be completed, I'd also like to chase down the electrical gremlins, particularly with the tail lights and tag lights not illuminating when the headlights come on (brake and turn signals work fine). I do have a 12 V battery charger with the alligator clips, but it is for smaller batteries like lawn tractors. Can I disconnect the battery and run the electrical system off the charger for diagnostic purposes. I don't want to run the battery down without a way to recharge it.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
Offline
You can but be sure and put a 5 amp fuse on the charger on the positive lead. You don't want to accidentally fry your harness.
You can pick up a trickle charger at the local parts store for cheap and it will come in handy over time for other vehicles. I'm betting that if you arm yourself with a wiring diagram, a continuity checker [Look's like an ice pick], and start in the trunk that you will find the corroded connection quickly.
Kurt.
Kurt.
While poking around the car yesterday, I noticed the bypass outlet (inlet?) from the water pump to the head had been completely blocked with scale. I cleared it out. I'm just curious what effect, if any, this would have had on the car.
I also discovered the car had been in an accident sometime in its life as the trunk pan at the left rear is distorted. It's not a huge deal. If I ever do a full-blown restoration on the car, I'd probably address it then, but otherwise, I'm just going to let it be. I picked up the continuity checker and will likely go diving into the car again to see if I can track down the short.
I also discovered the car had been in an accident sometime in its life as the trunk pan at the left rear is distorted. It's not a huge deal. If I ever do a full-blown restoration on the car, I'd probably address it then, but otherwise, I'm just going to let it be. I picked up the continuity checker and will likely go diving into the car again to see if I can track down the short.
That bypass tube was designed to work with a thermostat that is no longer available. The purpose was to give faster warm-up. I cut a short piece of steel rod to fit the hose and block it that way....you don't need it and it does nothing to help keep the car cool. The original thermostat would block it off when the engine temp came up. Make sure the block off piece is large enough that it can't get into the rest of the system.
Kurt.
Kurt.
I continued taking care of some housekeeping tasks while waiting for the cylinder head to be completed. I spent part of tonight tracing the wiring problem I'm having with the rear running lights / tag light. I ended up tracing it back to the switch. While under the dash, I came across this switch (the silver one, not the trip odometer reset). Any ideas? I'm thinking it was a hidden ignition kill, or perhaps an actuator for the passenger side ejection seat? I also discovered that working on a Spridget is better than Yoga. Some of the contortions I had to make with my body to get to some of these areas were downright crazy!
DSC_1313 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Here is my problem child. It's a bit blurry, but you can see two red wires coming off the headlight switch. One is "hot" the other is deader than a doornail. This would explain how my headlamps and driving lights work while the taillights were out. I tried cleaning the contacts with Deoxit 5 (my FAVORITE contact cleaner), but it's still not working. I'm guessing I have to replace the connector. If the switch was bad, both wires would be "cold".
DSC_1315 by onyxsax, on Flickr
While digging around the trunk, I came across evidence of previous accident damage. It's not pretty, but it doesn't seem to be adversely affecting the car:
DSC_1321 by onyxsax, on Flickr
The right vertical fuse on this block was broken. Does anyone know which circuit this is for? Left side of the pic is the firewall
DSC_1323 by onyxsax, on Flickr
This is what the fuse looked like when I pulled it. Yikes!
DSC_1325 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Finally, I was pulling out the last of the old exhaust hardware to get the new exhaust ready to be installed. This canvas strap was running across the bottom of the transmission and running through the exhaust hangar. Is this really necessary? It seems too thin to be a safety strap. I also discovered one of my oil leaks was coming from the transmission drain plug, so I tightened it up a bit. Hopefully that will slow things up
DSC_1328 by onyxsax, on Flickr
I don't think I could say THANK YOU enough for everyone's help and support with this project and the millions of questions that keep coming up. Baby Blue will live again and is going to be better than ever thanks to all of you!
DSC_1313 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Here is my problem child. It's a bit blurry, but you can see two red wires coming off the headlight switch. One is "hot" the other is deader than a doornail. This would explain how my headlamps and driving lights work while the taillights were out. I tried cleaning the contacts with Deoxit 5 (my FAVORITE contact cleaner), but it's still not working. I'm guessing I have to replace the connector. If the switch was bad, both wires would be "cold".
DSC_1315 by onyxsax, on Flickr
While digging around the trunk, I came across evidence of previous accident damage. It's not pretty, but it doesn't seem to be adversely affecting the car:
DSC_1321 by onyxsax, on Flickr
The right vertical fuse on this block was broken. Does anyone know which circuit this is for? Left side of the pic is the firewall
DSC_1323 by onyxsax, on Flickr
This is what the fuse looked like when I pulled it. Yikes!
DSC_1325 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Finally, I was pulling out the last of the old exhaust hardware to get the new exhaust ready to be installed. This canvas strap was running across the bottom of the transmission and running through the exhaust hangar. Is this really necessary? It seems too thin to be a safety strap. I also discovered one of my oil leaks was coming from the transmission drain plug, so I tightened it up a bit. Hopefully that will slow things up
DSC_1328 by onyxsax, on Flickr
I don't think I could say THANK YOU enough for everyone's help and support with this project and the millions of questions that keep coming up. Baby Blue will live again and is going to be better than ever thanks to all of you!
The flat braided cable looks like a ground strap and may be needed. I doesn't look like the stock strap but if you don't have the stock strap to the engine best put it back. The engine has to be grounded to the frame or all manner of nasty things can happen! Should have a short strap going around one of the motor mount's, I believe.
Kurt.
Kurt.
Offline
Check the cable again, if it is canvas, it does nothing, but, the ground straps are woven that way - and you must have the engine grounded to the frame.
The "vertical" fuse is a spare, that is where they are stored - no worries there.
Before you get too far into the connectors for the red wires, not all the wires coming from the steering column are live - Off the top of my head, the wiper? stalk has a forward/backward motion that, were it in an MGB, would be for the overdrive.
Let's get the engine reassembled and then we can trace the wiring
The "vertical" fuse is a spare, that is where they are stored - no worries there.
Before you get too far into the connectors for the red wires, not all the wires coming from the steering column are live - Off the top of my head, the wiper? stalk has a forward/backward motion that, were it in an MGB, would be for the overdrive.
Let's get the engine reassembled and then we can trace the wiring
longbridgehealey
Obi Wan
Offline
Hey David, I think that is a ground strap. Make sure there is another one up by the engine if you decide not to put it back on the car. If you aren't sure, put it back on 
JP - I'm just "killing time" until the cylinder head gets back. Getting the motor running again is the priority.
I traced the wire all the way back to the headlight switch itself. They both join up at female connector which goes to the blade connector in the upper right hand corner of the switch if you are looking at it from the direction of the firewall (upper left hand side if you are sitting in the driver's seat). When you turn the switch on, only one of the two wires has current. With that particular connector, both wires should have current.
I'll clean up the strap and look at it again. Either way, I'll put it back where it belongs :tennis:
I traced the wire all the way back to the headlight switch itself. They both join up at female connector which goes to the blade connector in the upper right hand corner of the switch if you are looking at it from the direction of the firewall (upper left hand side if you are sitting in the driver's seat). When you turn the switch on, only one of the two wires has current. With that particular connector, both wires should have current.
I'll clean up the strap and look at it again. Either way, I'll put it back where it belongs :tennis:
I cleaned up the strap, and, sure enough, the "canvas" strap magically turned into a braided copper ground strap. The next time I go under the car, it will get put back.
I replaced a raggedy sun visor on the driver's side tonight. That pretty much finishes up all the little detail items I had going on until the cylinder head comes back.
I replaced a raggedy sun visor on the driver's side tonight. That pretty much finishes up all the little detail items I had going on until the cylinder head comes back.
...and on the 5th day of the 2nd month, he said "Let there be (tail) light". And there was, and it was good!
DSC_1401 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Digging under the dash, my voltage indicator was now showing power on both red wires, so the connector was not the problem. Just for giggles, I decided to check the inline fuses that were located on the passenger side of the dashboard. Sure enough, one of them was blown. Once I replaced the fuse, the taillights came back on again. Tag light is still out, but that should be an easy fix.
Also put the ground strap back on. Please remind me to put that on the list of things to never remove again unless I'm pulling the entire engine.
DSC_1403 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Styrofoam peanuts are from the box the exhaust came in and got EVERYWHERE in the garage!
DSC_1401 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Digging under the dash, my voltage indicator was now showing power on both red wires, so the connector was not the problem. Just for giggles, I decided to check the inline fuses that were located on the passenger side of the dashboard. Sure enough, one of them was blown. Once I replaced the fuse, the taillights came back on again. Tag light is still out, but that should be an easy fix.
Also put the ground strap back on. Please remind me to put that on the list of things to never remove again unless I'm pulling the entire engine.
DSC_1403 by onyxsax, on Flickr
Styrofoam peanuts are from the box the exhaust came in and got EVERYWHERE in the garage!
longbridgehealey
Obi Wan
Offline
Just got word from the machine shop that the head is ready for pickup. I'll grab it tomorrow in the AM....just in time as the forecast has us getting 10 to 14 inches of snow Wednesday into Thursday. Now, let's see if everything goes back together the way it came out of the car.
Once the head is on, but before I put the thermostat back in, would it be advisable to add antifreeze through the thermostat hole before securing the thermostat? My rationale is that if the thermostat is closed, it's going to leave a pretty large area where antifreeze may not get to until the thermostat opens.
Once the head is on, but before I put the thermostat back in, would it be advisable to add antifreeze through the thermostat hole before securing the thermostat? My rationale is that if the thermostat is closed, it's going to leave a pretty large area where antifreeze may not get to until the thermostat opens.
58Custom
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Saxman,
I never have issues with filling the cooling system with the thermostat in place. Will there be an air bubble? Sure. It will come out when the thermostat opens. Just complete the cooling system hookups then fill the radiator full, then go do some other stuff and add more coolant because the level will have gone down and continue on this way while you hook up the carbs, secure the exhaust, get your throttle and choke cables installed and adjusted, add oil blah blah blah. When the system stops taking coolant, close it up. After letting the engine idle to temp and the tstat opens (confirmed by a warm top hose) allow the engine to cool and top up the radiator.
On the other hand, if you want to partially fill the system through the tstat hole and then install it, secure the upper hose and fill the rest of the way, do it. It's a good way as well and offers peace of mind. Just make sure the heater hoses and lower hoses are installed first to prevent spillage. Be sure to tighten the drain plug before adding any water.
I never have issues with filling the cooling system with the thermostat in place. Will there be an air bubble? Sure. It will come out when the thermostat opens. Just complete the cooling system hookups then fill the radiator full, then go do some other stuff and add more coolant because the level will have gone down and continue on this way while you hook up the carbs, secure the exhaust, get your throttle and choke cables installed and adjusted, add oil blah blah blah. When the system stops taking coolant, close it up. After letting the engine idle to temp and the tstat opens (confirmed by a warm top hose) allow the engine to cool and top up the radiator.
On the other hand, if you want to partially fill the system through the tstat hole and then install it, secure the upper hose and fill the rest of the way, do it. It's a good way as well and offers peace of mind. Just make sure the heater hoses and lower hoses are installed first to prevent spillage. Be sure to tighten the drain plug before adding any water.