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Rust Products Comparison Tests

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T

Tinster

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We all remember the mess TRBill got himself into
with his floor rust proof painting. Since I was about to
repair both floor pans right after Bill's nightmare, I did
a little research.

I'll relate my field findings and opinions on two rust paint
products I have now used.

a. Eastwood Rust Inhibitor- xylene based single component
1 quart silver color at $30.00 plus shipping

b. Morton Rust Inhibitor - 2 component acrylic/urethane
1 quart Grey) with 1 pint activator at $25. local.

I will do the write up after/below the photos that follow.

paintcombo.jpg



Both products have a very short useful brush life. Both
require small amounts poured or mixed from the parent cans.

With the Eastwood test area on my frame, I chemically
stripped the existing paint, scraped, degreaser cleaned,
then cleaned with xylol, dry sanded rust with 200 paper,
xylol, steel wool, xylol and then painted with Eastwood.

The Eastwood product is a very high xylene solvent based
paint that sets up into tac condition after maybe three
brush strokes. Fastest setting paint I have ever used.
This product requires decisive, long , brush strokes. Don't
even think about going back over it to make the brush lines
all nice and neat and parallel or fix runs and blobs. You'll
just make a mess. Dry to the touch in about 4 to 6 minutes.
I found using a 1.5" wide brush gave me opitmal results with
a decent finished look.

Because the Eastwood is a very high solvent product, it goes
on fairly thick but is pretty thin once the solvents
evaporate and the product has dried leaving behind the
solids. A minimum of two coats is a must, in MHO.

I tested the Eastwood resistance to brake fluid, solvent
based enamel paint and gasoline. All three "ate the paint.
With only 12 hours dry time, the Eastwood scratched easily.
The Eastwood Rust Inhibitor does NOT require burning the
rust or the deep cleaning I performed. It can go directly
over wire brushed rust. (Personally I think only a DPO would
not try to remove MOST of the rust)

I had to have my can of Eastwood barged shipped to PR and
it just arrived last Friday. Something to do with Homeland
Security and certain chemicals prohibited on aircraft.

While waiting for the barge to arrive I went to a local auto
paint shop.

Our local auto paint specialty shop does not carry the
Eastwood lines. My local shop recommended to me the
Morton 2 part acrylic/urethane rust product.

The Morton product is a non-solvent based paint that
requires mixing a catylyst to start off the chemical
reaction. A 4 parts urethane to one part catylyst ratio
is used.

The Morton product also requires use in small batches. It
has about a 20 minute useful brush life. It is possible to
go back over and make nice neat parallet brush lines and fix
drip and blobs. The acrylic/urethane also goes on thick but
retains it aplication thickness becaue it is chemical
reaction cured NOT solvent evaporation based. One coat on
my floor pans was probably good enough but I put on two
"just to be safe". Morton recomends burning the rust and
normal cleaning. I followed this procedure.

I also tested the cured Morton with brake fluid, solvent
based enamel paint and gasoline. There was no reaction or
softening of the acrylic/urethane. After 12 hours the Morton
acrylic/urethane was hard plastic I could not easily cratch.
I think The A/U will better resist road gravel and stones
kicked up from tires, etc.

Bottom line opinion:

I will continue to use the Eastwood product as a two coat
primer on my frame and engine compartment but I will overlay
it with the 2 part- chemically resistant- acrylic/urethane.
In the engine bay I will try to find red A/U top coat paint.


Several forum members are working in engine bays or on their
frames. I hope my observations help a bit.

best regards,

Dale in Sunny Puerto Rico
Yeah, Crypty is on jack stands...AGAIN!!
 
Paul would approve: Harris Brand

A low fume, "non-caustic, paint and varnish
remover for auto, boats and aircraft".

Safe for aluminum and OTHER metals.

Wear rubber gloves, stuff burns skin real fast

d
 
From experience, the Eastwood rust paint needs 7 full days to harden or it can lift.

They have a new "extreme" chassis paint (top coat) that they claim is completely resistant to brake fluids, etc, and hardens much quicker thatn their solvent based chassis product. It is spray on only, no brush.

I have used the Eastwood stuff but not the epoxy+hardener A/U paint.

I'd also like to try that rust bullet sometime to check it out.

Wonder if West marine has a good rust coating?
 
Peter,

I went down to West Marine and considering we are in
the middle of very salty water, they carry almost nothing
for rust. Strange.

I tried for the Rust Bullet and it cannot be shipped to
PR for security reasons. They have a local rep who works out of his apartment but he never returned my calls or e-mail.

I'll let the Eastwood dry some more, until Paul's trailing
arm and Moss parts arrive. Then I'll test again before I apply
the A/U.

d
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]dry sanded rust with 200 paper,
[/QUOTE]

You will get better results with 80 grit paper. Might seem a bit course for wood or aluminum, but for steel it is great. First degrease the area. Remove all paint either with a paint remover by sanding. If using a paint remover, wash the area clean with soap and water. Skip the steel wool and xylol wiping, sand the entire area with 80 grit paper, wipe off with a mild soap water solution, then apply a phosphoric acid wash, best applied with a coarse scuff pad, let set per instruction, then wipe clean with water, then with a damp cloth. Once done this way, you will have a good scuffed, etched surface to apply whatever coating you are going to apply.

Note: Even though deep rust pits will turn black from the phosphoric acid, this is only a surface reaction. Naval Jelly or products like SEM Rust-Mort with a prolonged application time are needed.
 
Thanks Ray,

I do burn the rust with Naval Jelly. I forgot a step since
I'm usually befuddled. I did use "Old Yellow" degreaser and
soap and water before I applied the stripper. Thanks for the
tip on the #80. #200 takes forever. I'll be happy to skip the steel wool, it cuts my fingers.

d
 
I used the eastwood stuff, but the kind out of a spray can.

It is definitely a base coat. I used the eastwood chasis paint as a top coat. I have been pretty happy with the results.
 
Very informative comparision test. Have you ever tried POR-15. I've used it on several different frames and inner body panels and have had great results with it. The only 2 negatives I can mention is once you open the can, if you don't use all of it, within several weeks, it will start to harden in the can. I buy pint or quart cans, that way I almost always use the whole can before it starts to set in the can. Secondly, it hardens like steel, but it does react to brake fluid. Gasoline doesn't seem to bother it, but I have had brake fluid melt it.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Safe for aluminum and OTHER metals.

Wear rubber gloves, stuff burns skin real fast[/QUOTE]

What part of "safe and easy to use" am I missing here?
 
I think it's just 3X $$ Easy Off oven cleaner
from "Back in the Day".

Except it is politically correct clear colored. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif

d
 
Has anyone done a comparison of RustBullet, ZeroRust and POR, I too, am on an island and the mfr's have a problem shipping the stuff. We do have POR here and it seems to be the paint of choice, because no one has acquired any of te other for comparison.
I would be curious of any results you mainlanders can provide.
 
I seem to recall a thread that linked to an article where someone did their own test on the above mentioned products. If only I had better searching skills, but maybe someone with better skills might be able to find it?
 
Years ago used a paint that I think was from Eastwood called Corroless. I liked it and got great results.

I have recently used POR-15 and I'm not happy. Rust appears to be bleeding through two layers of the paint put down correctly.
 
POR15 or Wurth Rust Guard is an excellent choice for underbody protection . Preparing the surface properly and it would last almost for ever. They do recommend metal prepping for 15 minutes before appling. Make sure the surface does not dry and any foaming action keep brushing until it quits. Nether will stick to new or shinny metal without metal prepping. It needs rust to cure. That's why it hardens up in the can after using it if you are dipping the brush into the can and painting the rusted surface and back into the can again. You are transferring rust molecules into the can and the curing process starts. Pour what you need into another container a little at a time as you need it. Don't transfer the remainder back into the original can or you will end up with the same results. Hope this helps. Larry
 
I gave some thought to using POR15 but after
Bill's nighmare I decided to look elsewhere.

I am super pleased with the Morton two component
acrylic-urethane product I used. My floor pans came
out really nice and won't be eaten by brake fluid,
gasoline or oils spilled.

d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif

prog2.jpg
 
Tinster said:
Thanks Ray,

I do burn the rust with Naval Jelly. I forgot a step since
I'm usually befuddled. I did use "Old Yellow" degreaser and
soap and water before I applied the stripper. Thanks for the
tip on the #80. #200 takes forever. I'll be happy to skip the steel wool, it cuts my fingers.

d
Click to expand...

Dale:

Funny you should mention Naval Jelly. Just last week I was in the local hardware store, looking for something to convert/remove rust (not for the TR, but for our 20 yr old washing machine which sprung a leak in the drum). I asked the store assistant:

"I need something for neutralizing rust" says I
"Naval Jelly works well" he responded
"Well I've heard of toe jam, but navel jelly! - I don't even want to think where THAT comes from!!!!" was my reply.

He gave me a very odd look.

Rob.
 
I saw a trick to use with the bigger cans of POR15 type paints.

Basically, you lay the can on it's side and tap it with a screw in valve. Then you sit it back on it base and tap a vent hole in the top and plug it with a bolt.

The idea is that you can open the valve, release the vent and you can pour out what you need. Kind of like those mini beer kegs.
 
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