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Rust Products Comparison Tests

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Yup, we were really poor when I was a kid
and usually went barefoot in summer.
I used to scrounge around the railroad yards
for empty soda pop bottles to get the $2 cent
deposit.

The bottoms of my feet got "rusted" pretty good.
My mom used Naval jelly to clean the soles of my
feet. It works good on rust stains in the bathroom
tub/shower drain as well.

Little did I know it would come in handy on TR6s!

d
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]It [POR15] needs rust to cure.[/QUOTE]

POR 15 is MOISTURE-CURED, that is it takes moisture in the air to cure the product. Nor is rust is needed for POR to bond to the metal. What is needed is an etched surface which is why they use a phosphoric acid solution on new metal.
 
Final follow-up

I let the two coats of Eastwood Rust Inhibitor
cure all week and it was still fairly easy to
scratch the paint off the frame this morning.

I decided to apply a top coating of the Morton acrylic-urethane to further protect the frame from
stones and sand kicked up while driving.

The Morton went over the Eastwood easily and appears
to have bonded strongly.

I think in the future I will use both products. The Eastwood
Rust inhibitor will be my base coat and the Morton acrylic-urethane will be my durable top coat. The finished
frame with combination of both products looks good.

d
 
Dale,

I planned to use the rust inhibitor, but I also ordered their Chassis Black to top coat it. Eastwood recommended adding the chassis black for durability.

How long do you recommend waiting between the application of inhibitor and the top coat?

Thanks,
 
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