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Rocker Assembly - work in progress

I've a few other "nit-pick" issues with that vid as well, Randall.

...just didn't wanna be a party pooper. :wink:
 
The video was a big help to me, prior to
my attempt to take the assembly apart.

After the fact, I have to laugh when he
couldn't get the first pedestal off and
video then cut to a tabletop of pieces.

Even stupid me would never dump parts in
a heap; photo or no photo.

But the video was helpful to someone who
had never seen a rocker assembly before.

I've now learned a new auto mechanic skill.

Cool!!

Dale(Tinster)
 
Paul, if the shaft is useless, why not do some
diagnostics on it?

dale(Tinster)
 
It's not ~useless~! Just too expensive at the moment to refurb. Cutting it in half WILL render it useless.
 
Tinster said:
TR6oldtimer said:
kodanja said:
<span style="font-weight: bold"> Check this out' </span>
OK, first thing I need to get is a lathe!
grin.gif
The rocker arm wear where the arm hits the valve stem is often over looked by the backyard mechanic. With labor prices as they are in my area, it is less expensive to buy new, the refurb. A great video.

Randall: My wife about had a heart attack when I fired up the propane
torch on her glass stove top. Monsoon outside so no choice. Wow!! Under
five minutes and both stuck pedestals slid down the shaft. Thanks for the tip.

Mr. Kodanja: I rented the lathe for an hour and the rocker shaft cleaned up real nice.
Just for curiosity since I've a new shaft ordered. The most cutting into the shaft was
by the springs.

A very interesting project, I am having fun. There are tiny oil paths all in and
out of the assembly. cool! I noticed one odd thing. Every rocker arm except No 12
has a shallow oil path cut from the oil feed hole to the vertical notch cut into
the shaft. Could this account for the problem with No.12 or is there not supposed
to be an oil path for No. 12 ? Photo attached: Thanks all! Paul- I'll drill out
the end plugs when my new shaft arrives.

detailRodEnd.jpg
Dale,
If the shaft was manufactured without the flat oil passage, then #12 would not have oiled as designed and probably what caused the problem. Or, #12 was so worn, the flat just got ground away.

Back in the days when I worked the Los Angeles Harbor, I could have taken that shaft to a marine machine shop (as in ships), had it welded, had it ground, then hard chromed, then ground again. They would also have taken care of the rockers. In addition to ship repairs, the shop was also doing the Shelby cranks and other parts. A cool place.
 
Ray, that was a shop that knew what it was doing if Shelby had parts there. But shipyard machine shops usually do know what they're doing.

Doc, I agree and that's why I said to keep it. A conversation piece if nothing else.

And as far as the TRF rebuilt assemblies, I asked for and received a new hardened shaft when mine was done. They had two options then, one as OEM shaft and $15 more for the hardened, so I went with the latter. I don't think that they do that anymore. They may all be hardened or all OEM now. OEM as in China. The hardened units like I got came from a shop in England that Charles dealt with from day one.
 
Not to nitpick, but OEM stands for original equipment manufacture[r], and I don't think much of anything on our Triumphs originally came from a Chinese company. Call them pattern parts, replicas, reproductions or just plain replacement parts, but OEM is Triumph (i.e., Stanpart, Unipart, etc.), Girling, Lucas, Wilmot-Breeden, etc. :wink:
 
OK Andy, I'll rephrase that to "current replacement part and whatever standard it meets", which is probably a lot more accurate.

What I meant was OEM in that the replacement part that didn't come from England as mine was said to, probably came from China in today's market. OEM was only to illustrate the stock spec shaft versus the upsell to a "Hardened" shaft.
 
I don't remember the address, but it was in CA. I did a Google search and only came up with one
 
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