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Rocker Assembly - work in progress

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Thanks Yisrael!

I was wondering that same thing, now that I've been eyeball
to eyeball with this contraption form many hours. No. 12
rocker has a ridge but No.1 is very smooth and also dry.
I've already figured a new shaft is required.

Removing the darned pedestals is givine me fits. Even after
soaking all night. I spent a total of 4 hours to remove one of the 4 intermediate pedestals. Is there a trick?

Thanks all !


chemicals.jpg
 
If you are going to replace the shaft, then a piece of wood to keep from mushrooming the shaft and a big hammer worked for me. Just make sure to support the pedestal as close as possible on each side of the shaft.
 
Leave the end pedestal in place that is connected to the shaft with a set screw, then either with gloves on, or with a towel, grab the secured end pedestal with one hand and the pedestal you want to remove with the other. Now, start twisting the pedestal you want to remove. If you cannot do it by hand, place it in a bench vice and cover the secured pedestal with a towel to prevent marring. Try it again with your hands. If it still won't move, and it really should by now, then you can try twisting the free pedestal with a large wrench, but be sure to protect it with a towel.
 
What type of engine are you working on?

Is it a TR6?

I'm not reusing my old rockers, which are essentially brand new, and if they fit a TR6 (mine are from a '66 TR4A engine) you're welcome to them. I'm not sure if they will fit or not, but the look very similar to the ones in your pictures.
 
The pedestals are aluminum, so warming them up would help loosen them as well. Play a propane torch flame on the pedestal for a minute or two, then grab it with a thick towel and work it off while it's still hot.

Not sure how it is on a TR6, but on a TR3 the rockers are cast iron and the shaft is steel. It may be that the rockers are worn even worse than the shaft is. A place like Rocker Arm Specialists should be able to insert bushings and make them better than new.
 
TR3driver said:
Not sure how it is on a TR6, but on a TR3 the rockers are cast iron and the shaft is steel. It may be that the rockers are worn even worse than the shaft is. A place like Rocker Arm Specialists should be able to insert bushings and make them better than new.
Click to expand...

The rockers on my Herald (which are similar to the TR6)fit perfectly onto the new rocker shaft. It seems that the rockers are harder than the shaft so that the shaft wears much more than the rocker. Since the rockers are far more expensive than the shaft this seems like a good design to me.
 
I am using marine crc and have broken loose all but one pedestal. I'll try the heat treatment.

Using lots of CRC I am able to slooowly rotate the pedestals
down the shaft and off. Only two remaining.

I am taking the Mrs out for lunch for our anniversary so I'll
post a photo later.

The No 12 rocker (directly over the oil feed)runs dry and has cut into the shaft allowing oil to escape beneath the rocker arm base. Anyone have an idea why. This escaping oil is why
rocker not 1 is also dry (I think)but it has NOT cut into the shaft.

Thanks all, gotta scoot.

dale(Tinster)
 
Heat is the way to do it, just don't overheat the aluminum. Try putting the thing in boiling water first before going to a torch.
Rob
 
Here is a close-up photo of the rocker shaft where
rocker No. 12 was installed. As seen, No. 12 cut
into rocker shaft deeply on one side and almost
nothing on the other side.

I believe this permitted oil to escape under the rocker
arm and thus reduce the volume of oil moving thru the
the rocker shaft. (My noob theory anyway) Rocker No.1
was also dry. Frank- until I took this assembly apart,
I did not know a tiny oil hole goes to the push rods.
This explains the " oil wet" push rods you noted.

I've ordered a new rocker shaft.

Any thoughts about why No.12 rocker cut into the shaft?
No damage to the rocker arm that I could see.

Thanks,

Dale(tinster)

rockerShaftDamage.jpg
 
Randall, I checked rocker arm specialist after you mentioned it some time back and I could not get in touch with them. Website and phone were down. I took care of the work myself. I had to heat up my pedestals to get them off. Boiling water also works, just don't tell the wife.
 
Dale,

I hate to say this, but if that shaft was that worn, you most likely have wear in some of the bushings in the arms. I know that you're trying to stick to a budget, but you may want to consider a recon assembly or at the very least, some rebushed arms.
 
If the rocker was not getting the oil it deserved, than rapid wear would occur. Incorrect valve lash in the past could also contribute. The new shaft won't have an internal sludge problem. Be sure to clean it as there may be left overs from the machining process.
 
Brosky said:
Dale,

I hate to say this, but if that shaft was that worn, you most likely have wear in some of the bushings in the arms. I know that you're trying to stick to a budget, but you may want to consider a recon assembly or at the very least, some rebushed arms.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">Paul, the entire shaft was very smooth except for the very end at rocker arm No.12
What could cause one rocker arm to cut into the shaft. It looks like the rocker arm
was installed crooked, on an angle. Is that possible?

thanks,

dale (Tinster)
.</span>
 
Tinster said:
What could cause one rocker arm to cut into the shaft?
Click to expand...
You said that was one of the ones that was dry. Simple cause & effect: Lack of oil = wear.

Tinster said:
It looks like the rocker arm was installed crooked, on an angle. Is that possible?
Click to expand...
Not possible (big if) if the clearance between the bushings and rocker arm were correct when it was last installed. Although, worn like that, it's probably crooked now.
 
I agree, oil starvation caused the wear, but that means that the bushing in the arm is worn too. Those minor spots, if there are more, are still a few .000" off the shaft, which creates sloppy movement and loss of pressure in the end. I still think that you are this far and should get a reconditioned shaft assembly and that will fix it 100%.
 
With certainty.

I'd bet using an I.D. micrometer on the rocker would reveal "ovality". Why take the chance. Putting old bits on a new shaft will lessen the problem, not fix it. Paying to bush/ream rockers would be more expense than the replacement assembly costs, too.

Or.... umm... you could just reassemble what ya have an' add one'a them poxy overhead oiler thingies. Then fret over all th' new oil leaks later. :devilgrin:
 
Thanks all,

So the 2 rockers are oil starved and the old man is quite
cash starved at the moment. The TR is at the very bottom
of the list of where we have cash to spend. It can sit
few months until after Christmas.

This is really a case of "I shoulda let well enough alone."
It has always bothered me those dry rocker arms but the car
has been running great for 5000 miles like that. Now it's
not running at all. BLARGH!!

Dale (Tinster)
 
Mallard - where these the guys you tried to reach?

Rocker Arm Specialist

19841 Hirsch Ct
Anderson, CA 96007-4910
(530) 378-1075


Anyone have a ballpark from them vs TRF for the rebuild?
 
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