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Wedge Removing TR8 engine+transmission

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philman

philman

Jedi Knight
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I was reading in the shop manual and they have you raising the front end of the car and dropping the engine + subframe to the ground to remove. Is this really the best (easiest) way? Should I pull the radiator assembly first or is it easier to remove after the engine is clear of the enginebay? Sop manual has you remove it first, but sometimes they get things out of order.

My TR7 I raised the rear end and pulled the engine througn the top opening of the engine bay.
 
I have followed the book every time by dropping the engine and lifting the car and found it , even for a novice like me, very easy. I was tempted to pull the engine up and out last time but why screw with sucess? I always pull the rad first just to avoid any possiblilty of damaging it.
 
Scott, How high do you have to lft it and what do you lift it with?
 
I usually brace my front rack with wood centered on a heavy creeper like device my brother made for me so it and the the gear box are braced , I then use my engine lift to pick up the front using the hoops mounted on the front. Then I simply wheel it forward, even if it is slightly off balanced it does not take much to move it that way. Then I lower the body onto a set of jack stands. Worked each time for me.
 
Pulled mine twice, but went the other way. I don't think I have enough clearance to lift the body high enough for the assembly to clear. Probably a little more difficult, especially since I dropped the transmission first, but it worked. Lining the tranny back up is not fun, either.

Mickey
 
THat is the real advantage of dropping it, I drop the entire engine and gear box. Outside the car it is easy to put it together and then slide it back under. Only have to put the four drive shaft bolts back in.
 
I used a chain hoist to raise and lower the engine/tranny onto a wheeled cart, two scissor jacks to raise the body and made wooden body stands to support the body at the required height. I also used my lift, but the process would work without it. The attached photo shows the basic approach. I have more photos if you would like them.
 

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I have headers on mine and do have to remove the passanger side or they get caught up on the body rails. Just a little FYI
 
I removed the engine out of my parts car today. Lowered the K frame with engine and tranny onto a movers dolly with two trolley jacks and then used my shop crane to lift the front of the car clear of the engine. Rolled right out. It took about two and a half hours.(radiator was already out)

As a bonus (I think) I gave the engine the once over, I think that I picked up someones project that they gave up on. New fuel tank, new slave cylinder, valve cover insides and rocker arms are spotless, no oil in tranny(!?), engine turns reasonably well with sparkies out. Now I am in a dilemma, to just try and start this one up or to go with the 3.9 liter rover engine I picked up?
 
Would be a shame to to lose the 3.5 if it has been recently rebuilt. But if you go with the 3.9 I bet you will be able to get some $$$$$$ for the 3.5.
 
Use the 3.5 and I'll take the 3.9 off your hands
 
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