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removal of transmission cover from 1959 100-6

Chet Zerlin

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Hello all. I'm in the process of trying to remove the transmission cover from my 2 seater 100-6. As much as I try I can't get it to clear the handbrake - and as a result I can't lift it up high enough to get it to clear the shifter (so that I could lift it out enough to get the "lip" out from under the handbrake). Kind of in a Catch 22 situation...

Do I need to remove the handbrake in order to remove the cover or is there another way that I'm simply not seeing?

Thanks in advance for your help!
Chet
 
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If you back off a few turns on the rear drum brake adjustment, you'll be able to raise the handbrake lever significantly higher.
 
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Here's a couple of shots from one of the last times I did my own BN6 (this was still in Ohio, so I know I've done it at least once more since moving to Florida...).

IMG_8005.jpg


IMG_8006.jpg
 
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Chet Zerlin

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Thanks Randy...since I've not yet touched the brake system on my car if you could give this novice just a little more specifics on doing what you describe it would be greatly appreciated!

:smile:
Thanks again!
Chet
 
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There is a SQUARE-headed peg sticking out of the brake backplates, maybe in about the 10:00/11:00 O:clock position on the RH and 1:00/2:00 O:clock position on the LH (as viewed from under the car in the center.

Counter-clockwise to "back the shoes off" allowing the handbrake lever to be lifted higher. When you're all done with the tunnel cover work, don't forget to tighten the adjustment back up again!

Study up in either the manual or online when it comes time to readjust the brakes again, as the four (4) sided (the OPPOSITE END) pyramid may throw you off, until you understand how it operates ;)
 

RDKeysor

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Good advice given here. For certain don't consider removing the emergency brake. I have a '60 BN7 and have had occasion to remove the tranny cover a number of times. I've taken out the seats to do this, but never the emergency brake.
 

DerekJ

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I seem to remember unscrewing the two bolts that hold the handbrake in position. This allows it to be more manoeuvrable when trying to avoid the transmission cover.
 

kozelding

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It's a puzzle in my BT7 too. I clearly remember at one point, the first time I tried pulling the tunnel, I thought it was impossible with the handbrake in place, but then suddenly I got it. Something like starting with the gear selector in 1st, wiggling the tunnel up enough so it can rotate clear of the overdrive, then shifting into Reverse to pull the tunnel back off.

Now, I DO remove the seats, do NOT adjust the handbrake, but DO remove the shift knob (and put a piece of tape over the threads to keep from scratching the bottom of the tunnel).
 
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Chet Zerlin

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"It's a puzzle in my BT7 too. I clearly remember at one point, the first time I tried pulling the tunnel, I thought it was impossible with the handbrake in place, but then suddenly I got it. Something like starting with the gear selector in 1st, wiggling the tunnel up enough so it can rotate clear of the overdrive, then shifting into Reverse to pull the tunnel back off."

The good news is I got it off! But.....I have no idea how :smile: Exactly as you described I just moved and wiggled it and all of a sudden it was loose and out it came....should be an interesting experience to see if I can get it back on when I'm done!!

So...my whole reason for doing this entire exercise was because my transmission was jumping out of 2nd gear. The idea was to pull the transmission cover, take off the side cover of the transmission - replace the three silver balls and springs that operate as the detents that hold the shaft "in gear" - put the whole thing back together (with a new gasket of course) and enjoy driving the car.
Obviously it took me way longer than I had thought just to get the transmission cover off and now I'm wondering if I can get away with not removing the second (bulkhead) cover that is in front of the transmission cover or if I'll need that room to have the clearance needed get the side cover off and on.
Here's a photo of my newly revealed transmission :smile:
attachment.php


does anyone who has done this before think the clearance is sufficient? What exactly happens when I remove the 13 bolts that hold the cover on? Does it just come off or is there some connection that I need to be aware of inside? (since the gear shifter mechanism is included in the side panel).


Thanks!
Chet
 

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Rob Glasgow

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Your last photo reminds me of something I just learned, even after owning my car for 50 years. When installing the transmission tunnel, it became obvious the the bottom part of the rubber gear shift gaiter is designed to fit over the round rim of the part that holds the shift lever in place on the transmission. I had never installed it that way, I just made sure to upper groove of the gaiter was installed in the tunnel hole. By having the rubber installed at both places, you get a much better seal to keep the hot air out of the cockpit. I guess that's why we get up each morning.
 
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I've been turning people's shift boots over for decades! Even the center-shift guys have a propensity for putting them on upside down__that's why their boots are usually torn!

I think the reasoning on the side-shift tans, is it keeps the ball/cup mechanism clean and free of road grit, and obviously, to keep the elements out of the car.

I keep mine secured with a Ty-Wrap, so I can't accidentally pull it off while getting it seated in the tunnel cover.

IMG_7989.jpg


Even though I didn't have the lever to install. I put the boot on this transmission so that the installer would have no doubt as to how it should be oriented.

IMG_1348.jpg
 
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Chet Zerlin

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Since I started this thread I wanted to report back that I've successfully replaced the three springs/balls in my side shift transmission. Took a test drive this afternoon and IT - STAYED - IN - SECOND - GEAR!!!! :encouragement:
Some observations in case another could benefit from my experience. The removal of the side cover was easy but fitting it back on was a learning experience. Getting the shifter mechanism aligned took a long time until I got used to how moving the shifter rod rotates and moves the mechanism that is inside the side cover. It's rather difficult to describe so here are two photos that should help:
attachment.php
attachment.php

I also initially had an issue where it seemed like something was binding when I tried to put the cover plate back on. But it turned out to be the three springs that could not be compressed easily to permit the cover to meet the gearbox. The solution was to insert the bolt that is directly above the three springs and tighten it to snug everything up.
Once that was done everything went together just fine.
 

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Thats ok I flipped it over when I got it




Just kidding.
;) You're lucky I didn't put a stainless steel Ty-Wrap on there! I still have a couple of boxes (not sure if there were 50 or 100/box) left over from the oil-patch days. It took nearly two (<2) decades, but I finally used up my stash of T&B 527MX Ty-Wraps (about 1/4" x 14"); I didn't think I would ever have to buy more of them! :cheers:
 
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Chet Zerlin

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I've been turning people's shift boots over for decades! Even the center-shift guys have a propensity for putting them on upside down__that's why their boots are usually torn!

I think the reasoning on the side-shift tans, is it keeps the ball/cup mechanism clean and free of road grit, and obviously, to keep the elements out of the car.

I keep mine secured with a Ty-Wrap, so I can't accidentally pull it off while getting it seated in the tunnel cover.

IMG_7989.jpg


Even though I didn't have the lever to install. I put the boot on this transmission so that the installer would have no doubt as to how it should be oriented.

IMG_1348.jpg

Hi Randy - could you please advise as to where your speedometer cable is routed through your firewall to enable it to meet the transmission as shown in your picture?

Thanks!
Chet
 

healeyblue

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like so.
 

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