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richberman
Jedi Warrior
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Don't cut the temp probe. Instead get a cheap socket and cut a notch or slot to allow the probe space!
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Removal and Refinishing BJ8 Wood Dashboard
- Thread starter pkmh
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...and put a hose clamp on the socket to keep it snug against the probe nut. Can't find a pic to post.richberman said:
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pkmh
Jedi Warrior
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rjc157 said:
Hey Ralph,
Got to say, that's a great idea. Why? Because that is exactly what I made this afternoon (among other gizmos). I had an existing long 5/8" socket and cut a groove along one side, about an inch or just enough for the sensor line to clear without interference once fully inserted over the bolt.
However, and yes, there is however here...I tried using my newly created 5/8" open end socket just before. That didn't work either, but it did give a better bite to the bolt than the Snap On.
Still, I have one idea left. That is, once the socket is in place over the bolt, I will then wrap around the socket a stainless steel hose clamp and screw it as tight as possible (or reasonable) so the socket doesn't start flexing as I'm applying torque. This is the only ace I have left in the hole--can't think of any other ideas for now. Tried lots of flame to heat up, doucing with PB, tapping the area (to stimulate harmonic vibration as I'm applying torque) and making custom open end wrenches. NADA!
The hose clamp addition to the socket might do it. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks,
Paul
D
Duane_Rhynard
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pkmh
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Thanks Duane!
Read the article on making the socket. I found it terrific!
And one thing I enjoyed reading was the part he advises, "where to make the cut" (flat vs. corner) and the reasoning having to do with bearing greatest at the corners.
Luckily, I also decided to cut along the center of the flat. But I was thinking more in visual terms or seeing the corners having angles instead of the alternative which would be leaving the them unprotected to physical (bearing) loads.
The author's reasoning is more exact. Mine, well...I am hopeful I can take a half dozen to go.
Paul
Read the article on making the socket. I found it terrific!
And one thing I enjoyed reading was the part he advises, "where to make the cut" (flat vs. corner) and the reasoning having to do with bearing greatest at the corners.
Luckily, I also decided to cut along the center of the flat. But I was thinking more in visual terms or seeing the corners having angles instead of the alternative which would be leaving the them unprotected to physical (bearing) loads.
The author's reasoning is more exact. Mine, well...I am hopeful I can take a half dozen to go.
Paul
RAC68
Darth Vader
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HI Paul,
Just incase you, or anyone else, has/will suffer the indignity of breaking the temperature gauge tube and would like to take a shot on a DIY repair, I came across this article some years back that describes, in detail, how to fix the unit. Although not exactly for the Healey, it turns out that this type of temperature sensing was also used on many other vehicles (as you would expect).
https://www.ply33.com/repair/tempgauge
Paul, I trust you will not need to follow its instructions and is only provided as a good description of what you are really dealing with.
Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
Just incase you, or anyone else, has/will suffer the indignity of breaking the temperature gauge tube and would like to take a shot on a DIY repair, I came across this article some years back that describes, in detail, how to fix the unit. Although not exactly for the Healey, it turns out that this type of temperature sensing was also used on many other vehicles (as you would expect).
https://www.ply33.com/repair/tempgauge
Paul, I trust you will not need to follow its instructions and is only provided as a good description of what you are really dealing with.
Good luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
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I had used an box end wrench back in '76 when I installed my sensor after an engine rebuild. With only a vice at hand it was a real bear to "bend" to get an angle that worked. I also had the box end slot cut at the middle of the box. Fortunately after a sharp whack of a hammer with a chisel on the sensor it was enough to loosen it for the wrench to work but I recall the box end of the wrench opening up slightly with pressure applied. I wish I'd had known about the socket set-up at the time. I don't remember what I put on the sensor threads when I reinstalled it but a few years ago when I removed my engine for a frame-up restoration the sensor came out way too easy.
Wouldn't it be nice if the gauge could be converted to "electrical" and eliminate the "hard lines", especially the water temp sensor line!
Wouldn't it be nice if the gauge could be converted to "electrical" and eliminate the "hard lines", especially the water temp sensor line!
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pkmh
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Hello Forum,
Bought a simple hose clamp this morning and wrapped it around my homemade socket, real tight I might had.
Got the sensor out finally after trial and error on just how tight I needed to make the hose clamp around the socket without it slipping and flexing from applying the rachet.
That article posted above was perfect. From one photo shown in that article, the one modification I made after was widening the cut, almost in trapazoidal form, where it meets with the sensor's coil. Figure I give a little more leeway for the coil to travel so as to avoid risking severing the coil when attempting to loosen the sensor bolt.
No torque wrench was necessary, maybe due to all the PB and heat I gave the screw threads days before. Still, was no pleasure pulling the entire assembly out through the bulkhead. Must be fun putting back through.
Figuring it is now out, I am lightly brushing off all the oxidation on the coil and sensor. Tested under hot water and it still works so no need to think about buying a new one. Only the choke cable needs to come out to complete removing the driver side wood dash. I've removed that in the past and resoldered when the knob simply pulled off the choke cable.
Should be smooth sailing from here, hopefully.
Thanks for all the input.
Paul
Bought a simple hose clamp this morning and wrapped it around my homemade socket, real tight I might had.
Got the sensor out finally after trial and error on just how tight I needed to make the hose clamp around the socket without it slipping and flexing from applying the rachet.
That article posted above was perfect. From one photo shown in that article, the one modification I made after was widening the cut, almost in trapazoidal form, where it meets with the sensor's coil. Figure I give a little more leeway for the coil to travel so as to avoid risking severing the coil when attempting to loosen the sensor bolt.
No torque wrench was necessary, maybe due to all the PB and heat I gave the screw threads days before. Still, was no pleasure pulling the entire assembly out through the bulkhead. Must be fun putting back through.
Figuring it is now out, I am lightly brushing off all the oxidation on the coil and sensor. Tested under hot water and it still works so no need to think about buying a new one. Only the choke cable needs to come out to complete removing the driver side wood dash. I've removed that in the past and resoldered when the knob simply pulled off the choke cable.
Should be smooth sailing from here, hopefully.
Thanks for all the input.
Paul
richberman
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Nicely done!
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pkmh
Jedi Warrior
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richberman said:
Thank you! As of yesterday, dash is completely out now and plan on removing the old coating from the glove box surround for today. Then the driver side and then experimenting with possible staining and clear finishes.
Finally getting to do other long awaited details like refurbishing the hood latch, air ducts, securing the antenna, painting/detailing and other stuff which were concealed from view behind the dash.
I wish I could do a rotisserie job, but as an-place piece meal restoration, I can't complain.
Paul
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pkmh
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Just wanted to share my results...
Some progress shots of my salvaged wood veneer dash, before and almost after. For the past week or so, I've been experimenting with the application of brush on polyurethane, lacquer sprays and epoxy resin. Those who recommended other products were not available or found in local hardware stores by me. So, I went with what was readily available. Also experimented with scratch fillers and staining. The scratch filler was beneficial but the staining proved not necessary so I did not use.
As for the coating techniques, I was not happy with the results of polyurethane and lacquer from the mock-ups I made. But the epoxy resin left a nice finish or one I can definitely live with. Overall not bad with exception of a few small blemishes here and there but I will invest in a decent buffer and use to polish out later on.
The biggest challenge in all this, using the epoxy resin anyway, was to keep the veneer pieces perfectly flat (ends has a slight curl), leveled and propped up to allow excess epoxy to flow over. So, the preparation was the hardest part. The pouring, with exception of ridding the tiny air bubbles as it was curing, was relativily the easiest.
It looks absolutely great to me, exhibiting a super high gloss, wet finish. But here again, as in my using 78 record dust for the steering wheel, time will tell if this will hold up in the long run against the elements. UV rays and extreme heat (above 120 degrees) are my primary concern for the longevity of the epoxy coating.
I understand there are UV inhibitors out there. Maybe I can simply apply a protective wax instead. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has used epoxies and what there feelings are in general.
Paul
Some progress shots of my salvaged wood veneer dash, before and almost after. For the past week or so, I've been experimenting with the application of brush on polyurethane, lacquer sprays and epoxy resin. Those who recommended other products were not available or found in local hardware stores by me. So, I went with what was readily available. Also experimented with scratch fillers and staining. The scratch filler was beneficial but the staining proved not necessary so I did not use.
As for the coating techniques, I was not happy with the results of polyurethane and lacquer from the mock-ups I made. But the epoxy resin left a nice finish or one I can definitely live with. Overall not bad with exception of a few small blemishes here and there but I will invest in a decent buffer and use to polish out later on.
The biggest challenge in all this, using the epoxy resin anyway, was to keep the veneer pieces perfectly flat (ends has a slight curl), leveled and propped up to allow excess epoxy to flow over. So, the preparation was the hardest part. The pouring, with exception of ridding the tiny air bubbles as it was curing, was relativily the easiest.
It looks absolutely great to me, exhibiting a super high gloss, wet finish. But here again, as in my using 78 record dust for the steering wheel, time will tell if this will hold up in the long run against the elements. UV rays and extreme heat (above 120 degrees) are my primary concern for the longevity of the epoxy coating.
I understand there are UV inhibitors out there. Maybe I can simply apply a protective wax instead. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has used epoxies and what there feelings are in general.
Paul
richberman
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Paul,
That looks beautiful. I hope it holds up well.
rich
That looks beautiful. I hope it holds up well.
rich
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Beautiful! Great job!
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pkmh
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Finally, the wood portion of the dash is back and so far, I cannot take a picture good enough to show just how nice this epoxy resin job turned out for me. I still have minor imperfections to correct but I really have to look hard to notice, even in the daylight.
The only issues resulting from taking the gauges out, etc. is, I need to recalibrate (or reposition) the oil gauge so it reads at the zero mark when the engine is off. Instead, it now reads at 20 lbs. at rest or before starting. If anyone knows the proper step, please let me know.
That and another concern relating to the tachometer, I will address under a new post.
Thanks for past advice.
Paul
The only issues resulting from taking the gauges out, etc. is, I need to recalibrate (or reposition) the oil gauge so it reads at the zero mark when the engine is off. Instead, it now reads at 20 lbs. at rest or before starting. If anyone knows the proper step, please let me know.
That and another concern relating to the tachometer, I will address under a new post.
Thanks for past advice.
Paul