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Recommendation on high clearance auto ramps

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Tdskip:

I don't have the casters with mine, as they came out after I bought it. Once you get it set up to the width you want, you really don't have to move it.

On the other hand, I do think the casters would make it even more versitile and have thought of getting a set when I take mine out of storage.

(How's that for a non-comittal answer? ... Bottom line, if you think you will be moving it, then I would definately get the casters. Moving it otherwise is almost a two man job)

Matt
 
I don't think I'll be moving it. I have a bunch of cleaning, painting, welding and maintenance to do (to put it mildly).

I was planning on setting it up and then just leaving it in place and moving the cars around so the one I was working on was parked on the ramp.

Based on your first hand experience, does that sound like a decent approach?

Thanks again Matt.
 
tdskip said:
Based on your first hand experience, does that sound like a decent approach?
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Tdskip:

That is a great approach. It is exactly what I did with mine. Once you get it set up and the ramps in the position you want, you really will have no reason to move it.

Good luck and please let us know what you end up with.

Matt
 
I have used my Kwiklift for a few years, the only thing I would add to Matt's comments are that you consider buying the 2nd center lift bridge; you will use it. Can't always place jack stands on the same plane as the jack, a second bridge will be very useful. You may also want to put the entire car on stands, making two bridges necessary. I bought my lift unpainted.
 
For that kind of money you're approaching a 4 post lift and I'd rather stand/walk that crawl/slither.
 
tdskip said:
Hi Mark - think it is worth the $1300 +/-?
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Yea, for me it is. I don't have the space for a four post lift. The posts take up a lot of room. Ceiling clearance is a problem also, exacerbated by an infra red heater tube. I was very tired of using jack stands so for me this is a great improvement. Also, if I am using my rotisserie or painting, I can stack the lift along the side of my shop. I have put all my cars from an old sports racer to my half ton pickup on the kwiklift. When buying a 4 post, I think country of origin is an issue, especially if you are going to use it for anything heavier than a small car.
 
Thanks.

I have clearance issues as well that will present a post lift from working, although it would be sweet to have one!
 
tdskip said:
Thanks.

I have clearance issues as well that will present a post lift from working, although it would be sweet to have one!
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Before I bought the 4-post, I considered a scissors lift, as several of my friends were getting them. Considered hydraulic lift ramps too, the kind that you drive on and then pump the rear hyd. cylinder to raise up the car level. I found both to be too restrictive, more of a stop-gap lift until they get bigger ones.

The height of my celing from floor to bottom of rafter is 9 feet. I can put my TR3/4 on the lift and still have room to get another small car (My Audi TT or TR3/4) underneath for winter storage. You could easily put one car up and work beneath in practically any garage.

The posts are 4x6 inch and 82" tall, small footrpint but it really does take up the outer corners of a car stall. It's 105" wide at the outside corners of the foot plates, posts are 2-1/2" indwards. It has safety catches at each post that latch every 4-1/2" lift. No plumbing, just plug in the electric hydraulic pump when you want to use it.

I can't tell you how great it is! It is great, great, great. I also have two cross supports that ride along the ramps so I can position a jack anywhere, support engine, gearbox, etc. When I did my front end, I jacked up each corner and used wood blocks on the cross support.

I prefer the 4-post over the 2-post because of it's versatility and storage options.

BTW, Bend-Pak is Made in USA (at least that's what's printed on the lift). NFI just praise.

If you can go that extra $$, it will be worth every cent.
 
Many service companies or companies that use lifts in their business have to comply with certain guidelines and this often entails changing out perfectly good lifts every so many years. A friend just purchased a killer-quality 4-post, American-made lift for his home garage from just such a company for pennies on the dollar. Like 25% of the original cost. Something to do with OSHA or the likes. The lift is in perfect working order but the company had to change out all their lifts on a scheduled basis. I have no particulars but if you can hang out in an industrial area or know of some businesses that have to deal with ANSI ratings and the likes, you might strike a home run.
 
i,m running a low tech lower budget operation here. Maybe i'll start digging a pit.
 

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That looks solid enough. Just a pain getting it up and back down.

Pits are illegal in many states because they tend to trap vapors which poison the mechanics as they work.
 
What sort of jack did you use to get her that high up?

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I just used a cheap 2 ton floor jack alternating between under the diff and front crossmember. Can't safely get it in one shot. Also don't do it from the sides it will teeter. I can go one more 4x4 higher (which will make a big difference) putting wood under the jack. I never feel comfortable under the thing but even when it goes up once more I can give the car my best shot and it is solid. OK for winter but a pain for a quick fix.
Pit has crossed my mind it will never happen, especially after Peters comment
 
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