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quick carburetion fix

low pressure pump and a regulator with a dial. Gotcha.
 
I check this thread every morning... I think Shawn might be on to something so far as the pump goes. I have had problems with a "new and improved one" So much that I went back to the OE SU. I bought the little squair solid state one that Moss offers and had over pressure problems from the start.(so I suspected it was the pump right away)A regulator cured everything.
May the force be with you JayBird.
 
Gotta love the title of this thread - "QUICK carburetion fix" - With 15 pages, yet!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif Mickey
 
ROFLMSAO @ Mickey! So much for a 'quick fix,' hey? I think Banjo mentioned that a few pages back!
 
That should be "low pressure pump OR a regulator"...you don't need both! If your problem is too much pressure (I'm not convinced of that) simply installing a regulator to reduce the pressure will do the trick. If you get a low pressure pump instead, you don't need the regulator. And, if the pump you have isn't the problem, it won't fix anything....
 
Nope, Joe, it should be "low pressure pump AND regulator" just as posted. For reasons both WhatsThatNoise and myself have stated further up this thread.
 
Not to be a wet blanket, but I have never had one of those dial type regulators that was worth squat. I prefer the Holley low pressure version, with the locking adjustment.
Jeff
 
I was goin' with quick availability vs $$, Jeff. I've had the dial ones "adjust themselves" (usually UPward) too. Most of 'em now aren't that bad. The Holley unit would be "Best of All Possible" aftermarket solutions though, agreed.
 
Doc, I had one of the old Filt-o-Reg dial types come apart in the engine bay once. I still don't understand why I didn't have a fire.
The Fiat 850 I recently acquired has one of those on it. When I first looked at the car, I told the owner I knew just exactly how far I could throw one of the things.
And, if I'm not mistaken, they aren't any cheaper than the Holley. Or at least not much.
Jeff
 
Been a while since I looked... I'll refit after that post. Never saw one disintegrate, but one's too many. The Holley is on the Elan, but th' B... well... it ain't finished yet. Ran for years with tha... <scamperin' to NAPA>
 
Wow, the things I miss when I go on vacation! I don't claim to be an expert but this is what I've gotten from the thread:

1. Car starts on ether but will not run unless the throttle is held open.
2. Gas does come from fuel line when disconnected from carb
3. Car will start and run (short while) with fuel line disconnected.
4. Strong gas smell, and fuel pump runs continously.
5. You have spark because it does fire.

my .02 opinion: needle is staying open(either stuck or float sunk) The ether allowing it to run seems to confirm this. When I owned an MG I did remove the bowl from the ZS while in place, but agree it's a pain of a job. If you can get the bowl removed and access the float I would check and see if it's full of fuel - that seems to be the most likely culprit considering the sudden onset of the problem.

FWIW, I replaced the ZS with a downdraft Weber on that MG before I got rid of it - didn't make it as nice as a 'Rumph, but helped quite a bit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
FYI I do have a fuel pressure regulator on Emma.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
This it to add to Jeff's comment:

I had one of those "cheapy" (Purolator?) fuel pressure regulators too (in my racer) and it started pouring fuel onto my headers. I bought it from Summit and a few days after it failed, I got a note from Summit saying that it was being recalled.
Now I have a good one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Recall Info:
https://rss-auto-recalls.justia.com/rss/CAMPAGNA.xml
 
Well. This hasn't been a 'quick' carburetion fix, but Emma's SUs are going in on Tuesday!!!

X your fingers!
 
woohoo! twin petrol mixers! sure wish Kali would let me do that... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Hey, why not? If your gov can run motorcycles without a valid license, what's the big deal?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
ya know... unfortunately, I don't think the officer writing me a ticket would find that so humorous... heh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hey, why not? If your gov can run motorcycles without a valid license, what's the big deal?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]


His name ain't Arnie!---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
well, janel...i've been watching this post for some time now and i've got to put in my 2 cents. My friend who owns a TR3 with the same symptoms asked me to look at it. His problem was loose bolts on the underside of the intake manifold where you couldn't see...there was a huge gap between the manifold and the block. In his haste to install the new carbs, he forgot to tighten these bolts, resulting in a huge vacumn leak. It's sometimes the simple, but hard to find things... it's worth a look.
 
Since she's getting ready to install her SUs, the need to troubleshoot this as a Stromberg problem is obviously moot. However, if the problem quickly recurs after the new carbs are installed, we can likely safely say that the problem is the fuel pump/pressure regulator. That was an inkling of mine a little while back.
 
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