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quick carburetion fix

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It depends upon how over pressured it is. I saw one pump that pushed 3.5 lbs, it was just enough to cause a persistent rich running problem but not enough to pour out of the overflow. The car (and it was an MGB) was reported to run well and then slowly started to run worse and worse over a period of time. Put a regulator in, set it to 2lbs, was then able to dial in the mixture and it ran great. The pump was a "Facet" pump. Which by the way, I have seen vary from 2-7lbs of fuel pressure.

Good points though still. Still not sure if it's running rich why starter fluid would help it start. Unless the starter fluid displaced the gasoline. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

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A shot of starter fluid and she starts instantly.
 
Have I got TWO rumfies in here now helping me? More?
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See, if it wasn't geting gas, it wouldn't run unless something like starter fluid was ingested...if it was getting too much gas & starter fluid was ingested, it would still be flooded?????????
 
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Well, yes... I am a "rumfie"... and proud of it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Too much fuel pressure can sink the float and cause the carb to flood. Can also cause the heavy fuel smells. It would be like using the choke when the engine was warm, just crappy running, sputtering and no idle. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/pukeface.gif

If the ether in the starting fluid is displacing gas, or at least adding enough oxygen to the initial starting charge I suppose that could explain why the starting fluid works. Otherwise... Stumped. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif


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I have been following this soap opera for a while now, and I must say that it has been real interesting!

At this time I am going to toss another idea into the mix. It may not be valid but what the heck!

Janel mentioned a couple of things that I can't get out of my mind. The first is that a PO removed all of the smog control and second, that the car would die for no apparent reason, like vapor lock or something.
The PO of my car removed all of the pollution controls and in so doing removed the fuel tank vent line from the charcoal canister and sealed it! So what would happen was that while driving the car and using fuel I would develop a negative pressure differential in the fuel tank since it was no longer vented. When the pump could no longer pull any gas the car would die, just like vapor lock. Also I could not restart untill I opened the filler cap and thus restoring atmospheric pressure to the fuel tank.
In short, Janel, when you remove the gas cap do you hear a woosh sound?
I hope you get this sorted out soon! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
Roman

BTW another "Rumfie"! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
No 'woosh' at all rumfie.
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[ QUOTE ]
See, if it wasn't geting gas, it wouldn't run unless something like starter fluid was ingested...if it was getting too much gas & starter fluid was ingested, it would still be flooded?????????

[/ QUOTE ]
That's true....
And we know Emma just passed emissions, so she can't have been running overly rich for any length of time
She's not blowing black smoke is she?
Hmmmmm.. were any adjustments made to lean her out to pass the test?
How about the oil level in the damper... If that's all gone the car will fall on its face when you try to rev it up. But usually not enough to kill it.
This IS sounding more like a lean issue.

Let's stop for a minute.
90% of carburation problems are in the ignition.
I think checking the strength of the spark would be a good idea. and this issue really fits the bill of a bad Condenser. If you get one that is partially shorted internally, it never lets the coil get a full charge. It has just enough to keep the car running at idle, but any extra demand will quickly overwhelm it. It may need the extra volitility of the ether to get it started with a weak spark (and we also know Emma just had an Anti-freeze intrusion into the dizzy)
Keep in mind, Even new parts can be bad.
Swappin' out the condenser is easy enough.
I gotta get to bed.... You know I'm gonna be awake thinking this one over.
 
No black smoke.

I can't check the spark without someone else helping me, I can't hold the plug close to the engine AND start the car at the same time. (maybe dh would humor me tomorrow?)

Nothing was done before she went to emissions testing. I didn't lean her out.

New condenser was put on just a couple months ago, along with points. (but we know new condensers can be bad/go bad)

I have to stop thinking about this too. I'm going to have a glass of wine and sit and read for awhile. I'm sure this problem will be waiting for me in the morning.

It's just so frustrating that I know so little about cars that I can't just FIX it. I'm a fixer, I can fix anything or anyone. Except Emma. And I HATE that.

Don't lose sleep over this Ben! It too shall pass.

Hugs guys!
 
There are a lot of folks here who know plenty about cars and haven't found your problem either, jb. It ~IS~ frustrating.

Aftermarket pump: put an in-line regulator on it regardless. You'll be swappin' out th' carb for the SU's soon enuff and that pump could be a contributing gremlin.

ZS diaphragm: good idea to remove the damper and pot, and hold the diaphragm up to a lightsource, slightly stretch it while looking for holes all around the thing. While it's out, turn on the iggy and see that the fuel level in the jet (li'l brass tube dead centre of the carb as you view from top) is NOT above half way... ie: you should see NO fuel coming from the jet tube. Turn the iggy back off, if all looks well, reassemble.

Iggy: Pull a plug wire (#1 would be best-longest wire), put a #2 Phillips screwdriver in the end and position the driver onna valve cover close to one of the big bolts so the shaft is almost touching it and can be viewed from the place where you can reach to turn the key... spin 'er up and watch for the spark. Duct tape the handle down if you have to! Spark should be once every rev, "snappy" and blue.

This is goin' back to basics, I know. But this is getting our collective goat and we oughta have some baseline info. The aftermarket pump as example. BTW: Emma was fitted with an electtric pump from new. It was an SU, the replacement sounds like a solid state "cube" type, Facet or suchlike... the delivery pressures can be all over the scale with those things... Again: pressure regulator, on G.P.

Dizzy: I'd clean/dry the inside of that cap again, and run an emery board (I ~know~ you have one of those) thru the points. Shiny-bright, please. Clean 'em out afterwards with a folded paper towel with a little bit of alcohol soaked in.

Whatever this is, it has been getting progressively worse from the description regarding "vapour lock" symptoms, starting probs etc. Meaning three marginal systems in mutual deterioration could be what we're fighting, IYSWIM.
 
This boils down to the old adage, if you have fire and fuel it is going to run or try too.

1. So, agree with the guys under the tree, check the spark off of #1, heck it should snap, if not..........

2. No fuel, I is prob lack of fuel if it runs for a bit with starter fluid. Now, checking with the guys under the tree again, they use to use a coke bottle with a bit of gas in it and dump it in the carb. Understand this can not be done with an MGB. However, you could shoot some in there with something like a turkey baster, or some other shooter thing I should think. Duct tape a clear plastic hose, smallish diamater to the end of the baster and use that to direct the shot. (hay if it has duct tape JB can handle it)
Crank eng. if it fires you know the prob is fuel, no question. And no mater what old whatshis face says you do not have fuel pressure.
At least this will isolate the prob.

Heck you could even rig a gravity fuel tank if necessary. Again affix the turkey baster and clear plastic hose to the carb fuel inlet (duct tape) remove the baster bulb and add a bit of gas an ounce or so, put bulb back on and fill the float chamber and crank.
There are so many ways to skin this cat but my old arms just don't reach to St. Louis.
 
I'm not doing anything remotely related to cars today except starting the Solara and driving to the mall for a very 'festive' top to wear for New Year's Eve. I'm still crosseyed from reading the advice in here over and over and I just am putting it on hold til Sunday.

Now to find something to wear with those gold stilletos.
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sounds like a good idea JB. Guess that means this post wont make six pages and probably the record book here at the BCF.


Mark
 
Hmm, gold short shorts and a top with tassels. Oh wait..........
 
Oh yes it will! Problems not solved Mark.

Ummm, I gave up short shorts about 30 years ago. A top with tassels hey? Didn't see any tassels, but I wasn't shopping in Frederick's of Hollywood either.
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Good morning Janel! Before you "pack this in" for a while go tape a note to the speedo to remind you to change the oil and filter as soon as you get the engine running again. If in fact the fuel has been being dumped into the engine for any length of time the oil will have been diluted and won't act a good lubricant. Firing it off and running down the highway to see how it runs could do some damage to your bearings. Have a great New Years! Jack
 
FWIW I have to put in my $.02. First let me qualify that I am not familiar with the MGB. After reading this entire thread, it seems to me the issue is most likely ignition related. Lets assume the fuel pump is providing adequate fuel which JB says it is and would further be evidenced by the strong fuel smell. The carb must have been working fairly well to pass the emissions testing, and aside from some catastrophic failure such as the needle no longer working or a huge intake of dirt they just don't fail that quickly. It appears the most recent issue was antifreeze in the distributor. I would want to look strongly at the condition of the points file and clean them as Dr. E suggested. Instead of a paper towel and alcohol to clean them after filing I always use a buisness card. Dampen it with alcohol (no rum) and swipe through the points. There is less chance of getting lint between the points. The next place I would look would be for a carbon track on the distributor cap or most likely the rotor. With all that antifreeze in there it would seem very likely to me that a track has formed from the rotor tip to the shaft which is shunting a portion of your spark to ground. Alternatively you could have a track in the cap which is causing a misfire between cylinders. I would think if this was the case you would be able to run, but it would be rough. I am suggesting that the starting fluid is able to burn with the weak spark but not the fuel. If this has been getting worse, then you would likely be smelling unburnt fuel while idling. The quick check would be to replace the cap and rotor (the ones you saved from the last tune up would work for a test).

Of course it could also be the capacitor, coil, secondary wires, plugs, primary wiring, rust in fuel tank, plugged fuel filter, plugged fuel line, vapor lock, cracked fuel line, vacumn leak, blown head gasket, cracked head, stuck float needle, leaky float, weak fuel pump, strong fuel pump, float level too high, float level too low, plugged exhaust and something else we missed.

Regardless of what the underlying issue might be I would suggest you have it identified before changing carbs. There is nothing worse than throwing another variable into an issue like this.

I hope that one more possible solution doesn't muddy things up to much.

BTW you might invest in a remote starter button. They don't cost much or are easy to make. This will allow you to crank the engine from under the hood and makes trouble shooting and adjustments much easier.

Regards,
Jeff
 
Jeff wrote:
"Regardless of what the underlying issue might be I would suggest you have it identified before changing carbs. There is nothing worse than throwing another variable into an issue like this."

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"BTW you might invest in a remote starter button. They don't cost much or are easy to make. This will allow you to crank the engine from under the hood and makes trouble shooting and adjustments much easier."

Oh yes by all means, saves on screw drivers tips as well.
 
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