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PT deck protection?

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George - I had the same problem when I replaced the two boards. What a pain to remove those screws. Wouldn't unscrew, or heads would break off, etc. If I were even contemplating replacing all the original screws, I'd go absolutely nuts; probably burn the deck, and start over again.

George_H said:
I built my PT deck in the late 80s. I left it untreated till about 10 years ago. A neighbor treated his deck with thompsons and it would turn almost black every year.
I stain mine with cheap redwood stain every other year now. I replaced about 10 boards total so far. The biggest issue I have is the original screws have rusted and now break. So I am slowly replacing with stainless ones.
Click to expand...
 
CaptRandy said:
Glider, did you sand the wood or the composite with the floor sander?
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Randy- I only sanded the wood. At the time I did it there were lots of rough sections and splitting wood.
I don’t see a reason to sand the composite.
 
Well, now I feel like a complete Dummy. Are you supposed to sand the old decking *before* you use a treatment? Or is it just something you do if you feel it's too smooth to hold the treatment?
 
I replaced the PT boards on the deck at least 10 years ago. Trying to find a photo to date when I did it. The previous PT wood had lasted at least 20 years and some boards had started to splinter badly. Was only going to replace those boards but as I worked the remaining boards looked bad so I ended up doing all the deck.
I did consider Trex but as I had the joists on 24" centers that would not work.

I painted all the new boards with the oil based water sealer on all 4 sides before I installed them. I have re treated the tops about every 3 to 4 years. Water still beads up on some boards but it needs to be treated again. Still looking good.

David
Deck paint 2.jpg
 
NutmegCT said:
Well, now I feel like a complete Dummy. Are you supposed to sand the old decking *before* you use a treatment? Or is it just something you do if you feel it's too smooth to hold the treatment?
Click to expand...
I don't think sanding is something that should be done on a regular basis.... my deck was at the point of deterioration that it needed to be sanded. I would not recommend it unless it was really necessary.
 
You do have to clean the deck before coating. Use wood bleach(oxallic Acid to clean it. Spray on, let dwell then power wash off. Let it dry to 12% moisture then seal. If yours has thompson's on it you have to strip it to remove the waxy coating. Sodium hydroxide then brighten so the wood does not turn black from the NaOH then 12% and seal. There are steps to doing a deck properly and the paint stores and big box don't inform the customers.
Products of different brands are not compatible and have to be removed to coat with another brand product.
 
Gliderman8 said:
My composite has a south facing orientation. The sun tracks from east to west and my deck gets full sun exposure. Is my deck hot?.... No, it is not; in fact you can walk barefoot on it with no problem. ...
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Elliot, you live in PA for crying out loud, that's almost the Arctic :encouragement:
Come down here and you tell a different story
 
NutmegCT said:
Well, now I feel like a complete Dummy. Are you supposed to sand the old decking *before* you use a treatment? Or is it just something you do if you feel it's too smooth to hold the treatment?
Click to expand...

When you use a cleaner and brightener and a pressure washer it will really raise the grain and have lots of fuzzies on it
It will help to smooth it,but if it's top nailed then it's a pain
Our dock in Roatan needs refinishing and it will be sanded before coated
 
DNK, not if done properly. I have done 200-300 decks per year for 25+ years and have never had a deck fuzz. That is why there are unloaders on good PWs and multiple tips specific to what pressure, water volume you are using.
 
Pressure washing if done right can give a nice Distressed look with plenty of fuzz. Don't ask how I know. That was the start of my new deck 10+ years ago. The pressure washer blasted off the surface exposing the harder parts of the grain.
I did sand the area of the deck that is under cover to reove a previous coating and level some boards. Hand belt sander, random orbital sander with 80 grit discs and hours on my knees pulling nails.
All screws now.

David
 
DNK said:
Elliot, you live in PA for crying out loud, that's almost the Arctic :encouragement:
Come down here and you tell a different story
Click to expand...
You must have sensitive feet don :joyous:
Seriously, the darker colors will absorb more heat. I chose a light color for that very reason.
 
Ladies and gentlemen - and children of all ages! (remember that ...?)

Here's the before, after doing a test patch:

IMG_0676.jpg

Using Behr solid color redwood and black stains, here's the result:

IMG_0684.jpg

This post would be about six times longer, but I decided not to mention all the gol dern surprises and failures!

Thanks for the advice.
Tom M.
 
I can't even see the deck ,just can't focus up close with all that yard work that you must be doing in the foreground
 
Looks great Tom. Pay no attention to don he’s allergic to yard work. He’s hiding under the covers now.
 
No problem. It's actually just two acres of cement, painted green.

A few WalMart plastic flowers stuck in for good measure.
 
No front "lawn" here, trees shade it in the summer and cover it with leaves later. AstroTurf has been a consideration.
 
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