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Progress Report '66 Rebuild..

Wow, Doc...

GREAT job... :thumbsup:

I am having enough trouble with the engine out!!!

I had intended a 'refresh' on this one but find myself way into much more than that already...
 
A quick SitRep....

This weekend I finished striping the MGB's engine compartment, sanded, rust treated, and primered it. I have a bit more sanding to do during the week

I will be picking up the Iris Blue paint this week and paint this Saturday. Perhaps I will re-instell the engine/tranny on Sunday..

I have also cleaned and painted the brake/clutch pedal assembly, taped the wire harness (I am not spending the $500 on a new harness right now. That MAY come later.)

MGB%20Compartment%20ready%20to%20paint.jpg


MGB%20Compartment%20primered.jpg
 
Put the heater & pedal box in before the engine.
 
Tony,

Yep... It is easier when I can stand where the engine goes to install those two items.... I will also be installing the new clutch flexible hose.

I do have a question....

It does appear that the heater core has leaked, based upon the rust I found when I took it out... I have check it for leaks but have found none so far.

I am going to take a bicycle inner tube and cut it off about 6" on either side of the inflation valve, clamp it to the input/output tubes, pressurize it with a bicycle pump (about 10 psi) and put it into a bucket of water. If no bubbles then no leak.... I will know this afternoon....

It may be possible that the leaks were from one or both of the two hoses.

So, the query... if it leaks, can a radiator shop repair it or should I just excpect to buy a replacement?? Any comments???
 
Yep, I take em to radiator shops all the time....I may have a few good, used ones around but new ones aren't that terribly expensive....were it me, I'd have it & the radiator done while the engine's out.
 
Tony,

Once the testing is finished, I will take it to the shop if only to flush it.. As for the radiator.. already recored...

After the problems I had with my MGA's cooling, I have become a zealot for recoring radiators.. :smirk:
 
That's looking real nice. But wife is a happy camper.

Your stock really went up.
 
I hope the difference between flashpoint of that primer & the flashpoint of your paint don't cause fish eyes!!
 
Jack,

Thanks, she is getting anxious.... And speaking of anxious...

Tony,

Gulp..... ahhhh, yeah.... should'a thought of that.... :square:

I will check with the paint supplier before I jump into it.. Thanks for the heads-up.... I can always strip it back off and try again.. :wall:
 
Tony,

Speaking of paint.... I am planning to use PPG (#12235)Urethane one step paint, at least on the engine compartment.

Rustoleum indicated that high levels of Zyleen (sp?) and MEK will disolve the primer.... The rep from PPG thought I was speaking greek and Rustoleum was not in his vocabulary... so he was not a great deal of help...

Have you any experience in this scenario???

I do not want to major in minors.... I can always strip the paint if need be...
 
Yep, reason I asked...I rustoleumed the engine compartment of my '68 Citron GT & then sprayed PPG & got lots of fisheyes...ended up sandblasting the engine compartment, taking everything off & using a primer that was conducive to the paint itself.

Also, did you use a good degreaser on the engine compartment before you sprayed the primer?
 
Tony,

Thanks for the words of experience.....

I will sand blast the compartment and re-paint with primer from PPG....

As for the degreaser... yep, pressure washed, then degreaser, then pressure washed again.... I could eat off of it without worries...
 
Tony,

Oh Guru of Gurus...

As I mentioned, I plan to use the one part Urethane paint rather than the base coat/clear coat process....

Any words of wisdom for that decision???

Thanks....
 
In the engine compartment, that's probably not a bad idea.

&, I'm not the "Guru of Guru's", I promise you....you should see me make mistakes - they're huge!!
 
May I butt in?

That "rattlecan" primer is FUBAR.

It's spelled Xylene.

That's a lot of extra work now, why not use epoxy primer? And a polyurethane two-part topcoat is quite good. Both are HIGHLY resistant to grease, oil and BRAKE FLUID compared to non-catalyzed finishes.

Tape wrapping the harness (assuming it's all good) is a PERFECT way to NOT spend more money. Now ~or~ in future. It'll be fine. Just NEVER use "ScotchLoks" or other crappy crimp connectors.


The heater box in those pix I posted was mostly rusted from hose problems. But having a rad shop flush and test it is prudent. Getting it apart again if it leaks after all that effort will be a real pain.
 
Tony,

A Guru learns for his mistakes and passes the experinces on to others.... A non-guru claims that he has made none.... :smirk:
 
Doc,

It always does my heart good to hear from you....

I know, the 'rattle can' primer was not the smartest thing to do....

I will pick up a can of primer from the PPG distributor to recover from my small lack of judgement... :smirk:

Although I would rather replace the harness with a 'make me proud' restorer's harness... this IS a driver with little expectations for awards of any kind....The existing harness is is great shape other than the cloth cover....

As for the heater core... will check and repair as required....
 
I saw someone selling new cloth covers somewhere?

Come on guys where?
 
Jack, I couldn't find the link I recall seeing as I was searching around a few months ago, but I did find that the Advance Autowiring website shows open under new management. That was interesting.
Another option for the standard black and white harness cover is hockey stick tape, very similar in appearance and feel but solid colored.
I did get a new harness from Dan and Mike Masters and I used the plastic flexible wrap for my harness, not proper but works very well.
Mike
 
I just tape wrap th' durn'd things and hang th' judges.


Mine are for DRIVING. If some sot wants to ding me fer vinyl wrapped wiring he better not lean over an' stuff 'is nodge into my engine bay while doin' it.... :devilgrin:
 
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