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Progress Report '66 Rebuild..
- Thread starter ronzet
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OP
ronzet
Jedi Knight
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A quick SitRep....
This weekend I finished striping the MGB's engine compartment, sanded, rust treated, and primered it. I have a bit more sanding to do during the week
I will be picking up the Iris Blue paint this week and paint this Saturday. Perhaps I will re-instell the engine/tranny on Sunday..
I have also cleaned and painted the brake/clutch pedal assembly, taped the wire harness (I am not spending the $500 on a new harness right now. That MAY come later.)
This weekend I finished striping the MGB's engine compartment, sanded, rust treated, and primered it. I have a bit more sanding to do during the week
I will be picking up the Iris Blue paint this week and paint this Saturday. Perhaps I will re-instell the engine/tranny on Sunday..
I have also cleaned and painted the brake/clutch pedal assembly, taped the wire harness (I am not spending the $500 on a new harness right now. That MAY come later.)
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Put the heater & pedal box in before the engine.
OP
ronzet
Jedi Knight
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Tony,
Yep... It is easier when I can stand where the engine goes to install those two items.... I will also be installing the new clutch flexible hose.
I do have a question....
It does appear that the heater core has leaked, based upon the rust I found when I took it out... I have check it for leaks but have found none so far.
I am going to take a bicycle inner tube and cut it off about 6" on either side of the inflation valve, clamp it to the input/output tubes, pressurize it with a bicycle pump (about 10 psi) and put it into a bucket of water. If no bubbles then no leak.... I will know this afternoon....
It may be possible that the leaks were from one or both of the two hoses.
So, the query... if it leaks, can a radiator shop repair it or should I just excpect to buy a replacement?? Any comments???
Yep... It is easier when I can stand where the engine goes to install those two items.... I will also be installing the new clutch flexible hose.
I do have a question....
It does appear that the heater core has leaked, based upon the rust I found when I took it out... I have check it for leaks but have found none so far.
I am going to take a bicycle inner tube and cut it off about 6" on either side of the inflation valve, clamp it to the input/output tubes, pressurize it with a bicycle pump (about 10 psi) and put it into a bucket of water. If no bubbles then no leak.... I will know this afternoon....
It may be possible that the leaks were from one or both of the two hoses.
So, the query... if it leaks, can a radiator shop repair it or should I just excpect to buy a replacement?? Any comments???
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Yep, I take em to radiator shops all the time....I may have a few good, used ones around but new ones aren't that terribly expensive....were it me, I'd have it & the radiator done while the engine's out.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I hope the difference between flashpoint of that primer & the flashpoint of your paint don't cause fish eyes!!
OP
ronzet
Jedi Knight
Offline
Tony,
Speaking of paint.... I am planning to use PPG (#12235)Urethane one step paint, at least on the engine compartment.
Rustoleum indicated that high levels of Zyleen (sp?) and MEK will disolve the primer.... The rep from PPG thought I was speaking greek and Rustoleum was not in his vocabulary... so he was not a great deal of help...
Have you any experience in this scenario???
I do not want to major in minors.... I can always strip the paint if need be...
Speaking of paint.... I am planning to use PPG (#12235)Urethane one step paint, at least on the engine compartment.
Rustoleum indicated that high levels of Zyleen (sp?) and MEK will disolve the primer.... The rep from PPG thought I was speaking greek and Rustoleum was not in his vocabulary... so he was not a great deal of help...
Have you any experience in this scenario???
I do not want to major in minors.... I can always strip the paint if need be...
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Yep, reason I asked...I rustoleumed the engine compartment of my '68 Citron GT & then sprayed PPG & got lots of fisheyes...ended up sandblasting the engine compartment, taking everything off & using a primer that was conducive to the paint itself.
Also, did you use a good degreaser on the engine compartment before you sprayed the primer?
Also, did you use a good degreaser on the engine compartment before you sprayed the primer?
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
In the engine compartment, that's probably not a bad idea.
&, I'm not the "Guru of Guru's", I promise you....you should see me make mistakes - they're huge!!
&, I'm not the "Guru of Guru's", I promise you....you should see me make mistakes - they're huge!!
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May I butt in?
That "rattlecan" primer is FUBAR.
It's spelled Xylene.
That's a lot of extra work now, why not use epoxy primer? And a polyurethane two-part topcoat is quite good. Both are HIGHLY resistant to grease, oil and BRAKE FLUID compared to non-catalyzed finishes.
Tape wrapping the harness (assuming it's all good) is a PERFECT way to NOT spend more money. Now ~or~ in future. It'll be fine. Just NEVER use "ScotchLoks" or other crappy crimp connectors.
The heater box in those pix I posted was mostly rusted from hose problems. But having a rad shop flush and test it is prudent. Getting it apart again if it leaks after all that effort will be a real pain.
That "rattlecan" primer is FUBAR.
It's spelled Xylene.
That's a lot of extra work now, why not use epoxy primer? And a polyurethane two-part topcoat is quite good. Both are HIGHLY resistant to grease, oil and BRAKE FLUID compared to non-catalyzed finishes.
Tape wrapping the harness (assuming it's all good) is a PERFECT way to NOT spend more money. Now ~or~ in future. It'll be fine. Just NEVER use "ScotchLoks" or other crappy crimp connectors.
The heater box in those pix I posted was mostly rusted from hose problems. But having a rad shop flush and test it is prudent. Getting it apart again if it leaks after all that effort will be a real pain.
OP
ronzet
Jedi Knight
Offline
Doc,
It always does my heart good to hear from you....
I know, the 'rattle can' primer was not the smartest thing to do....
I will pick up a can of primer from the PPG distributor to recover from my small lack of judgement... :smirk:
Although I would rather replace the harness with a 'make me proud' restorer's harness... this IS a driver with little expectations for awards of any kind....The existing harness is is great shape other than the cloth cover....
As for the heater core... will check and repair as required....
It always does my heart good to hear from you....
I know, the 'rattle can' primer was not the smartest thing to do....
I will pick up a can of primer from the PPG distributor to recover from my small lack of judgement... :smirk:
Although I would rather replace the harness with a 'make me proud' restorer's harness... this IS a driver with little expectations for awards of any kind....The existing harness is is great shape other than the cloth cover....
As for the heater core... will check and repair as required....
19_again
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Jack, I couldn't find the link I recall seeing as I was searching around a few months ago, but I did find that the Advance Autowiring website shows open under new management. That was interesting.
Another option for the standard black and white harness cover is hockey stick tape, very similar in appearance and feel but solid colored.
I did get a new harness from Dan and Mike Masters and I used the plastic flexible wrap for my harness, not proper but works very well.
Mike
Another option for the standard black and white harness cover is hockey stick tape, very similar in appearance and feel but solid colored.
I did get a new harness from Dan and Mike Masters and I used the plastic flexible wrap for my harness, not proper but works very well.
Mike
