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Progress-new thread Monday
- Thread starter jlaird
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startech47
Jedi Knight
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I would try loosening the 3 screws until they clear the threaded holes in the block and sliding the metal plate along with the screws from underneath the crankshaft flange as a unit. You may have to break the plate loose to get it moving. Sorry, I do not know if this is possible, as I haven't done it in 30 years. I would give it a try before removing the crankshaft. Sounds like the hot tank destroyed the gasket. Keep up the spirits there are not too many places left where the leak could be.
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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I fitted a the eyebrow Jack without removing the crank. Check it with the feeler guages like I described in the earlier post.
I'll throw this out there for what it's worth, they make rear seal kits for A-series engines, we tried them on the race 1275 motors and not had alot of success with them, I believe with the ultra compression ratios we're running may be the reason why, other people with the street applications have success with them. I believe the 948/1098 Mini Maina rear seal kit works better than the 1275, because of how the rear hub of the crank is made on the 948/1098 small journal motors. It a direct bolt on kit, it kinda expensive at $250.00, but it may be something to think about, go to https://www.minimania.com, go to classic Mini part of the site, do a advances search for part number RIC775, and you'll find what I'm talking about.
The only time, I had any experience with a rear seal kit on a 948 was in a race motor with a dry sump oiling system, but I can say firsthand it was dry as a bone at the rear.
I'll throw this out there for what it's worth, they make rear seal kits for A-series engines, we tried them on the race 1275 motors and not had alot of success with them, I believe with the ultra compression ratios we're running may be the reason why, other people with the street applications have success with them. I believe the 948/1098 Mini Maina rear seal kit works better than the 1275, because of how the rear hub of the crank is made on the 948/1098 small journal motors. It a direct bolt on kit, it kinda expensive at $250.00, but it may be something to think about, go to https://www.minimania.com, go to classic Mini part of the site, do a advances search for part number RIC775, and you'll find what I'm talking about.
The only time, I had any experience with a rear seal kit on a 948 was in a race motor with a dry sump oiling system, but I can say firsthand it was dry as a bone at the rear.
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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Thanks guys, engine about a third out and I done for the evening, old eyes and it is getting dark.
I don't care if it is dry as a bone I just don't want it running like a facet part open.
Yep Hap, printed out your instructions so I could follow them very very carefully.
One thing I do know at this point is that I have great oil pressure, top of the acceptable range at all RPM cold as well as hot. That's without driveing it mind you. Also know that the tranny is not leaking and it was for sure.
Surely looks to me like my guys caustic cooker ate the gasket out of the eyebrow scroll cover, can not tell without removeing it but that would be my guess.
Hap do you safety wire those bolts in or?????
I don't care if it is dry as a bone I just don't want it running like a facet part open.
Yep Hap, printed out your instructions so I could follow them very very carefully.
One thing I do know at this point is that I have great oil pressure, top of the acceptable range at all RPM cold as well as hot. That's without driveing it mind you. Also know that the tranny is not leaking and it was for sure.
Surely looks to me like my guys caustic cooker ate the gasket out of the eyebrow scroll cover, can not tell without removeing it but that would be my guess.
Hap do you safety wire those bolts in or?????
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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jlaird said:
No, I use locktite and split washers, I never saw one come loose either.
startech47
Jedi Knight
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The other thing to check is to make sure that the oil drain back hole in the rear main cap that routes the oil back to the pan is open.
racingenglishcars
Darth Vader
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Hap Waldrop
Yoda
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racingenglishcars said:
Yeah I guess it is so rare no one bothered to make one for it. The crank flywheel hubs are simular looking, but i'm sure they are different, or atleast that's what I heard.
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Engine out tranny split. Here is what I found.
No oil in bell housing behind the drain hole. Rubber dust covers and all dry this time so guess that leak was stoped for sure.
Will take a few pics but difficult as oil is so clean. Oil found on bottom half of rear engine plate from the scroll seal down and on the bottom part of the bell housing back to the drain hole.
Have not pulled the plate yet as wife wants floors done. Look good to me. sigh. She will absolutely not allow me to hirer maids and when I do she fires them.
My god look at the prices on those rear seal kits.
More to follow.
No oil in bell housing behind the drain hole. Rubber dust covers and all dry this time so guess that leak was stoped for sure.
Will take a few pics but difficult as oil is so clean. Oil found on bottom half of rear engine plate from the scroll seal down and on the bottom part of the bell housing back to the drain hole.
Have not pulled the plate yet as wife wants floors done. Look good to me. sigh. She will absolutely not allow me to hirer maids and when I do she fires them.
My god look at the prices on those rear seal kits.
More to follow.
OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Here is a pic or two, note that there was no gasket between the eyebrow, top of scroll seal and the block. Also no RTV it just kind of fell out although the bolts were tight.
There are four pics here. Note no oil behind the drain hole in the bell housing, no oil on the oil pan nor rear of back plate.
Scroll seal was tight to crank can not even see a bit of gap either bottom or top.
Comment??
There are four pics here. Note no oil behind the drain hole in the bell housing, no oil on the oil pan nor rear of back plate.
Scroll seal was tight to crank can not even see a bit of gap either bottom or top.
Comment??
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OP
jlaird
Great Pumpkin
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Oh lookie what I found but no goop on it at all. Wonder where that went between the last rebuild and dip and now?
Don't thnk you can see it well or at all but the gasket is on one side oil soaked. This is the side toward the block from about the 5:30 position to the 3;30 position is glossy with fresh oil as I pulled it. Hard to see how as much leakage as I was getting was comming out of that small place.
Don't thnk you can see it well or at all but the gasket is on one side oil soaked. This is the side toward the block from about the 5:30 position to the 3;30 position is glossy with fresh oil as I pulled it. Hard to see how as much leakage as I was getting was comming out of that small place.
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startech47
Jedi Knight
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Was everything above the scroll dry?
You have to remove the oil pan to check if the oil drain back hole in the rear main bearing cap is open.
I would use a thin coating of RTV between the scroll seal and the block and the scroll seal and the rear main bearing cap. You may want to put it on a little thicker to seal the junction where all three pieces meet. Make sure the RTV is heat and oil resistant, buy the best you only need a little, and let it cure at least overnight. Push the scroll seal tightly against the rear main bearing cap as you tighten the fasteners.
Have a great Thanksgiving. Phil
You have to remove the oil pan to check if the oil drain back hole in the rear main bearing cap is open.
I would use a thin coating of RTV between the scroll seal and the block and the scroll seal and the rear main bearing cap. You may want to put it on a little thicker to seal the junction where all three pieces meet. Make sure the RTV is heat and oil resistant, buy the best you only need a little, and let it cure at least overnight. Push the scroll seal tightly against the rear main bearing cap as you tighten the fasteners.
Have a great Thanksgiving. Phil