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Planing my built. Stock vs transplant

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You guys have convinced me to stay with the 1275. So that's one less worry at this point. The motor sounds solid. So I gues I'll pull it clean it and paint it up.

It doesn't seem as though "stock" adds or subtracts any value. So I think I can stop worrying about what color to make the interior and go with what I find.

Now in learning about the carbs.... Can you reccome d a good complete rebuild kit? if I go through the carbs and clean out the gas tank I'm sure I'll have a driver. I'd like to take the family around the block before I start disassembly.

Lastly, how about a check list? Aside from taking it apart. What would you leave as is?
Steering seems tight. ( rebuild?)
Rear end seems good (open diff or LSD?)
Trans seems alittle stiff ( shifter bushings?)
Engine ( redo gaskets? Or if its not leaking leave it alone?)

All mechanicals like. Brakes, tires, battery etc. go without saying.

Just trying to decide how deep to take body. Floors are pretty good ( little thin but no holes). Rockers have some minor holes ( looks like outer only). Trunk looks really good. Not sure about front under fenders but lower fender need a little patching. I can just fix it as I find it or strip it and have the whole car dipped. Assuming I can find a local company that does that sort of thing. What would you do. Pros and cons?

Sorry for long post... But I'm getting a little excited about it
 
bugedd said:
Gundy, you car sounds like it wants to kick some butt! Who built your motor? And is that HS4's on it, or HS2's?
Click to expand...

A fellow in California built the engine. Standard hot rod stuff.
Bored to 1380cc w/ GT7 Longman head, hot cam, 10-1 compression, alloy flywheel and harmonic, Aldon ignition,
big bore headers, 2 inch ss exhaust, Vernier timing, ARP throughout, etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. Very similar to the Spridgetmania setups.
The carbs in the video are HS4s w/ Maniflow intake. Not the best for street use IMHO. Really honked on WOT however.
I've since replaced the HS4s with custom HS2s from Hap. Ported early model intake. VERY happy with the HS2s. Impeccable street
manners. Great throttle response.
Here is a pic of the current setup w/ HS2s.
One of these days I'll get Hap to rebuild it for a Supercharger.
I keep saying I'll do that when I blow this one up.
I've put about 3000 miles on it so far and it has held together just fine in spite of my heavy right foot.
:devilgrin:
 

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RaserX said:
You guys have convinced me to stay with the 1275. So that's one less worry at this point. The motor sounds solid. So I gues I'll pull it clean it and paint it up.

<span style="color: #FF0000">Good Call, you won't be disappointed</span>

It doesn't seem as though "stock" adds or subtracts any value. So I think I can stop worrying about what color to make the interior and go with what I find.

<span style="color: #FF0000">It doesn't matter at all</span>

Now in learning about the carbs.... Can you reccome d a good complete rebuild kit? if I go through the carbs and clean out the gas tank I'm sure I'll have a driver. I'd like to take the family around the block before I start disassembly.

<span style="color: #FF0000">You can buy a kit from Moss or any of the usual suspects. However, if you want it done right, get Joe Curto to rebuild it. https://www.joecurto.com/ I go mine rebuilt here in Canada and it made a ton of difference. In the meantime, I suspect that if you pull off the cover of the float, ensure nothing is gunked over, check the float and spray carb cleaner at the needle, you should be "good enough" to go. Do clean the tank and replace (or install) a fuel filter. Buy three. </span>

Lastly, how about a check list? Aside from taking it apart. What would you leave as is?
Steering seems tight. ( rebuild?)
Rear end seems good (open diff or LSD?)
Trans seems alittle stiff ( shifter bushings?)
Engine ( redo gaskets? Or if its not leaking leave it alone?)

<span style="color: #FF0000">In terms of the engine, if it is fine and tight leave well enough alone. (It will leak - it's British) Steering should be fine but check tie rod ends (they are cheap) Front bushing are typically shot by this time and an easy fix. When you have the front end apart check the A-arms carefully as they are prone to cracking. Don't touch the diff, it's fine (maybe change the oil) Likewise with transmission, change the oil but don't touch it till you have reason to. If you pull the engine, do change the clutch/thrust bearing/pressure plate. Also replace the motor mounts. You probably want to do the rear bushings also.</span>

All mechanicals like. Brakes, tires, battery etc. go without saying.

<span style="color: #FF0000">Don't forget the hose between the rear brakes and the rest of the braking system. If you rebuild the calipers, split them in spite of what the book says - this will require one extra seal than the kit provides. Before you hook up the new Battery, clean and tighten all the connections to the fuse box. Your car is negative ground. </span>

Just trying to decide how deep to take body. Floors are pretty good ( little thin but no holes). Rockers have some minor holes ( looks like outer only). Trunk looks really good. Not sure about front under fenders but lower fender need a little patching. I can just fix it as I find it or strip it and have the whole car dipped. Assuming I can find a local company that does that sort of thing. What would you do. Pros and cons?

<span style="color: #FF0000">This is where you get into "might as well" territory. There is no right answer to this question. All the replacement panels are available. I went back to bare metal but had a very good shell to start with. It probably added two years to the project. :smile: The question is, what do you want? a driver? a perfect car? good enough? Do check the A-posts as they are the most likely rust spots. (the front fenders unbolt) </span>

Sorry for long post... But I'm getting a little excited about it
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #FF0000">It is exciting. And you are in the right place. ASAP get two manuals, Haynes and Bentley (can't find a link) plus order a copy of the current Moss Motors catalogue (they have digrams) One step at a time and have fun! </span>
 
Awesome reply.... Thanks

I'll look into the carb guy rebuild. But, I'm pretty handy with carbs. Years of two stroke and auto tinkering.
 
I'm an old 2stroke racer myself!
Once you get into SU's and understand the way they work you will find they are some of the most simple, reliable carbs out there. Agree with JP make sure nothing is gunked up and your probably ready for a drive. Bigger concern would be your brakes which almost always need rebuild on any car that has sat.

Kurt.
 
Cool nomad. Nothing like a singing/ smoking two stroke..

By the way. How do I find out if my 1973 motor is unleaded compatible? From what I read it could go either Way. Any help is appreciated
 
Greetings from Bugsy in Beavercreek, OH. You need to put British Car Days in Dayton on your calendar for the first Saturday in August. 8/04 this year. Held at Eastwood Park in Dayton under the trees. Usually 250-300 LBCs of all sorts in attendance. Vendors as well selling parts and pieces.

As far as valves and unleaded. Premium fuel only, these engines were designed for a whole lot more octane 40-50 years ago. I've run unleaded in Bugsy my '68 Sprite with no issues for the last 12 years. Most others report the same. The valve seats and heads were pretty tough on these engines. When comes time to rebuild the head go for upgraded valve seats. Otherwise go and drive.

Other than brakes you need to look at Front End Suspension Components. Look in the MOSS Catalog for tips on checking Front End Play. Between rebuilding the front end, and a set of rebuilt shocks all around from Peter Caldwell at World Wide Imports in Madison, WI, and new tires and you'll be back to GoCart Handling.

Good resource MG Automotive in Kettering, OH not too far away. Steve can take care of anything on your Spridget you can't tackle yourself.

Hope to see you at British Car Days.
 
RaserX said:
By the way. How do I find out if my 1973 motor is unleaded compatible?
Click to expand...

They aren't the only unleaded heads are on 1500's. That said, keep driving it, the replacement cost and upgrade cost are the same. Most people have no problem. On a related matter, there is not complete agreement as to whether Ethanol is detrimental to these engines or not, I however prefer to use etanol free fuel.

In terms of SU's they are easy to rebuild, and you can get oversize shafts.
 
It's a whole new world out there. And now that I have poked my head out of the sand and looked around .... Places are really close. I'll be at the Dayton show for sure bugsy.

So unleaded is no real big deal? That's good to know. Obviously, premium fuel and maybe some booster additives?
 
Conserning Splines: I would say that if the splines are worn to the point that you are afraid to run your finger over them for fear of getting a bunch of nasty slices then the hub or wheel is worn out. When new the tops of all the ridges and valley's had a rounded to flat area. A good rule while driveing is to listen for the slop being taken up when going from forward to reverse. Very distictive. Course those wheels will run a long ways yet with that much wear so replacement is kind of a personal thing. If you have a bad wheel replacement is the best option. I've never found an old spoke nipple that was'nt froze up. The wheels on flea-bay are almost always junk or not displayed well enough to make a good decision on them.

Just a little more rambling and a further .02

Kurt.
 
RaserX said:
It's a whole new world out there. And now that I have poked my head out of the sand and looked around .... Places are really close. I'll be at the Dayton show for sure bugsy.

So unleaded is no real big deal? That's good to know. Obviously, premium fuel and maybe some booster additives?
Click to expand...

What is normally done by good rebuilder, is when a cylinder head is rebuilt, you install hardened exhaust seats, the deal is the MG head swere built with the exhaust seats just ground into the cast iron head, and it does not hold up well to unleaded fuel, because it burns alot hotter than the old leaded fuel. Valve recession is remote possibilty, but rare, however what normally happens is you lose valve seal which kills performance, especialy on cylinder #2 and #3 since they share the same exhaust port hardned seat insert cure this issue.

On the 1500 heads, well the factory tried to do a hardening prcess call induction hardening, it was lame attempt by a factory in financial problems, at best. 1500 heads still need hardened exahsut seats duirng rebuilding like A series heads.

There are tons of performacne parts for the A series engines, and they are great little motors. A higher compression, non ported 1275 can develop HP in 80s, add posted head, yu're into the 90, add big bore like 1380, your's into the low 100s, whcih is pretty good for little classic 4 nager, these cars are light and handle well. When I take MG to the tight eastern mountian roads wit me at that wheel, I can pass anything I want, bigger engine sport cars, and even sport bike, becauxse it all about handling and driving. david 1380 with me driving down the back strgith at Carolina Motorsport park pulled 6400 rpm in 4th gear at the braking zoen, well over 100 mph, with a racing 1275we can make 130-140 hp at 8i000 rpms, and pull about 130 mph.

If you're looking for massive HP, this isn't your car, but if you looking for snappy, well handling classic sport car that can carve a corner in the RIGHT hands, and gooble up way more impressive and expensive sport cars, then these are great little cars.

AS for conversions, they are some quite nice one out there that are well executed, but this is project for a well equipped and skilled person, who doesn't mind a very extensive build, in other words, not a weekend job. One needs to be well skilled in fabrication to pull off most conversions.
 
Good deal. 130 horse that would be fun. As for the track I used to love passing 1000cc sport bikes on the out side on my 600cc. Skilled rider beat power every time. And a good roll out of the last turn all but the most powerful bikes couldnt catchme til the end of the main straight. Not that I'm a speed freak( I am or was). Now I just enjoy mechanical savy over brute force nowadays.

Looks like this will be a great car for me. Probably do Engine mods when this one expires.
 
Niiice.... Watch you dice with the silver one was cool. I liked the inside outside move to pass. What kind of lap times do you run? I hadn't considered racing a midge.... Until now. :smile:

What a weekend race fee? Dot tires?
 
Typical entry fees are $300 to $400 for the weekend.

Most vintage racers use Hoosier race tires or DOT radials (like the Toyo R888s that I run)
I need about 4 new tires a year for 7 or 8 weekends of racing (approx $165 each).

All of the above is the <span style="text-decoration: underline">cheapest</span> part of racing. :wink:

My car can make 103 mph top speed at about 6500 rpm (at PIRC according to my GPS).

My lap times are mid-pack. Here's some of my numbers:

BeaveRun (PIRC) 1:18.5

Pocono (North roadcourse)1:08

Pocono (Long roadcourse)1:56

Summit Point (regular circuit) 1:38

New Hampshire Motor Speedway (road course) 1:31

Shenley Park (Pittsburgh) 2:37

Shannonville 2:23

Watkins Glen 2:39

Lime Rock 1:11 (my stock, street Miata is quicker at LR)

I've mostly raced on unleaded gas ...haven't seen any problems. 9.5:1 compression ratio.
 
Good deal on the tires. Mine rarely lasted a weekend at twice that price. Not to mention fees per race entry. Etc.
I think it could be way fun for a more affordable price ( riiiight). The only affordable thing about racing is when you stay home.... Lol.

Still sliding around on four tires has to be a little more forgiving than sliding on two...
 
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