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pics of my bt7

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tri_carb_healey

tri_carb_healey

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heare some photos i took trying to shaw some of the flaws, any tips about anything would be nice
this fender just has light, light surface rust, how would i prep this and the other spots for a body shop?
IMG_9896.jpg

here are the doors
IMG_9885.jpg

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what do you guys think about these shut lines?
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and just because, heres my tri carbs
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how much would this work cost to get done?
 
What work are you asking about? Can't see the interior or the frame. Does it run? To what level are you looking to restore?
This is my BN7 restored over the past 30 years.
I have no idea what it would cost to do this level of restoration paying professional restorer prices.
I put about $15,000 in mine over the years, but it would cost two or three times that today. I did everything myself except the paint and body work (mainly patch panel rust repair). The frame was solid. You may need new doors and rear fender (can't see the passenger side).

IMG_1505-1.jpg

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AHbefore-after.jpg
 
the mechanicals have all been rebuilt by healey surgeons. the chassis and floor boards are rust free (just need a good sanding and prime and paint.) one outrigger could use some love, but its not terrible. i would like to clean the doors up myself, and can live with holes as long as its clean. i would like to fix that fender and patch panel the door. i have another thread about the outrigger. i mainly want to know how to prep these spots for a body shop to complete the work. all i have is bodywork. the mechanicals are rock solid and get better by the day. im not going to go crazy, im 25 so this is more of a sypathetic touchup for a few years, until i get serious. but its a driver and i plan to keep it that way. your car is a beauty btw.
 
not sure where your located but shop around those so called restoration shops are just rip offs they think your rich if you have a healey,body work is body work the only difference is that the shrouds are aluminum ,if you can don't take off the panels or your never going to finish it just gets more and more involved .you could prob get away with about 5000 for a decent paint job and body work good luck,if you go through healey surgeons be prepared to go for atleast 15-20 g
 
Disclaimer: I'm not a pro body man, but I'm doing a frame-off--inc. all bodywork and paint--on a 100M and spot work on my BJ8 so I've learned a bit. Maybe 'PC' will chime in here, he seems to know his stuff.

The rear fender doesn't look bad. You'll have to take it down to bare metal where there's rust and probably another inch or two around the edges to get it all (there will likely be rust under the periphery of what you can see). I'm doing similar work on the BJ8 due to some damage--some of it self-imposed--and with a little practice I'm surprised how decent it can look. It's a one-stage paint so any good paint shop can get a match, and with a touch-up gun you can paint the spots then blend in with sandpaper and a buffer. You'll need to remove the fender to get at the rust by the bead.

The doors look worse. Any time rust (body filler?) bubbles like that the rust likely goes deeper. You may need to replace some sheet metal, either with a panel or you could fab some sections yourself. You'll have to sand/grind off the rust and damage to see what's left.

Prep all the rusted areas with a metal prep with phosphoric acid before applying filler and/or paint (or to prevent more rusting before you take the car to the body shop). Apply a catalyzed primer/sealer if you can't do all the work in a few days.

Dunno if you're so-inclined, but for less than you'll pay a shop you could acquire the tools and learn this yourself. You'll need a decent compressor for air tools and paint gun. A lot of tools--inc. surprisingly decent paint guns--can be had for relatively few $$$, esp. at Harbor Freight or some online dealers. If you need to patch panels you'll need a MIG welder and some practice before you attack your Healey.

The shut lines look pretty good to me. The top of the door juts out a little, but that's a parts shape mismatch that's not uncommon on these cars. Not sure there's much you can or should do about it.
 
"not sure where your located but shop around those so called restoration shops are just rip offs they think your rich if you have a healey."
this is the big problem i have. everyone thinks i have mad money falling out everywhere. but i inerited this car and im not making a whole lot quite yet. so what grit paper or tools would i use to srub the rust
 
I've had very good results with these:

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-disc-holder-with-1-4-quarter-inch-shank-99559.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-5-2-inch-100-grit-twist-lock-abrasive-discs-99578.html

These will take you down to bare metal quickly and if you're careful you won't remove too much good metal. You'll need an angle grinder and compressor. Or, you could use a 4.5" electric grinder with a flapper disk or stripper wheel (but they are less controllable). If nothing else, a drill with a stripper wheel would work.

If you want to do it by hand I'd use 80-grit or coarser with a block.
 
You should realize that your car is rusting from the inside in most of the places. In that case, removing the outside rust will not stop the rusting. That is why you need to cut out rusted-through areas and braze in new sheet metal.
 
UPDATE: i had a friend come by the house, who'se always loved the car. he hasnt seen it in a while, he saw the doors and outrigger and said "why haven't you called me fool, i took welding classes we need to fix this now." he then proceeded to grab a screw driver and stabbed holes through the floorboard. he tosses the screw driver at me an says "we need to replace everything in the cockpit" so we discussed this and after more digging and screw driver. we've found that the rocker panels need to go as well. with no labor fees, all i need to buy is a welding machine. are the lower end harbor freight models adequae? something like this?
https://www.harborfreight.com/110-amp-220-volt-flux-and-mig-welder-94164.html
should i buy patch panels from a company or is just the proper gauge steel good. my friend didnt really sound to excited about pre cut panels. seemed more inclined to cutting his own.
im aware that i will need to brace the crap out of the car. and i will ask for pics, and start a thread about bracing later. would a hardtop help rigidity?
 
tri_carb_healey said:
UPDATE: i had a friend come by the house, who'se always loved the car. he hasnt seen it in a while, he saw the doors and outrigger and said "why haven't you called me fool, i took welding classes we need to fix this now." he then proceeded to grab a screw driver and stabbed holes through the floorboard. he tosses the screw driver at me an says "we need to replace everything in the cockpit" so we discussed this and after more digging and screw driver. we've found that the rocker panels need to go as well. with no labor fees, all i need to buy is a welding machine. are the lower end harbor freight models adequae? something like this?
https://www.harborfreight.com/110-amp-220-volt-flux-and-mig-welder-94164.html
should i buy patch panels from a company or is just the proper gauge steel good. my friend didnt really sound to excited about pre cut panels. seemed more inclined to cutting his own.
im aware that i will need to brace the crap out of the car. and i will ask for pics, and start a thread about bracing later. would a hardtop help rigidity?
Click to expand...
Be sure to buy the correct rocker panels with the curve in them.
 
Some of my repair panels were cut from the hood of a junk yard Cadillac. The rockers, as Patrick said, and any other stamped (shaped) panels should come from suppliers.
 
tri_carb_healey said:
are the lower end harbor freight models adequae? something like this?
https://www.harborfreight.com/110-amp-220-volt-flux-and-mig-welder-94164.html
should i buy patch panels from a company or is just the proper gauge steel good. my friend didnt really sound to excited about pre cut panels. seemed more inclined to cutting his own.
im aware that i will need to brace the crap out of the car. and i will ask for pics, and start a thread about bracing later. would a hardtop help rigidity?
Click to expand...

How fat is your wallet? I have no experience with the HF welders, but this is one case where I think you need to go quality:

https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/servlet/the-1893/MILLER---MILLERMATIC/Detail

I've purchased from this outfit, and they are first-rate.

Lincoln has an equivalent, and either would be fine. I suspect your friend will want to use gas, not flux core so you'll need to buy a bottle (Argon/CO2 at 75/25). I do think the HF autodark helmets look pretty good at ~$60, though I haven't used them. It seems like a lot of $$$, but you'd be paying thousands to have a bodyshop do this work. Your friend, if he knows his stuff, can show you how to weld and, who knows, you might have a new hobby. I got started with a MIG and ended up buying a TIG. No good at it, but I have fun. Start here:

https://weldingtipsandtricks.com

The key with MIG is smooth delivery of the wire, along with proper wire speed and voltage. Technique is critical, of course, but with practice you can pick it up.

If you're just going to stitch in flat patches cold-rolled steel would be fine, if you're going to do anything with embossing--like floorboards--you should spring for panels. These guys are the best around now, and quite pleasant to work with:

https://www.kas-kilmartin.com.au/

Some US suppliers stock their stuff, but buying direct is a bit cheaper and shipping isn't as bad as you might think.
 
I hope I'm wrong here, but rust is really a tip of the iceberg deal. What you can see is only a hint of what lies beneath. Your car looks like it's been repainted previously. If your doors are rusted like that and you need rocker panels as well it's hard for me to believe that there isn't any rust in the rear fender doglegs as well as the lower portions of the front and rear fenders. Maybe it's previously been repaired, but you won't know unless someone runs a bondo detector over those areas or you strip the paint off. Once you start doing body work on this car, including welding up the cracks in the rear shroud, you're probably going to want to do a full repaint. Add this to replacing the floorpans and outrigger and you're looking at spending somewhere between $5-10k for a driver quality job that may start deteriorating in less than 5 yrs. I think you're at a decision point on this car. If it were me, I'd get someone in the local Healey club to look it over before you start doing any work. I know at age 25 you may not have a lot of funds to spend on a Healey restoration. It may make more sense to drive the car as is for a few years and save up the money to do it right, by which I mean removing the fenders, doors, shrouds, etc, stripping off the paint, repairing the rust and dents, including the inner structural items and finishing off with a nice driver paint job. That approach might save you money in the long run.
 
my plan is to remove the fenders and doors for this job, unless its recommended i keep the fenders on for this job? from the inside of the wheel well i can see nor feel any questionable spots. while the fenders are off il hammer and dolly them. then prime the work with por-15 primer till its time for paint? ive been wanting to do this, but didnt know a weld man. i have a garage and space to store the parts im taking off. but i will buy everything i need before i start so i wont have to wait for money to buy parts. also, what restoration manual would you guys suggest to help me remove the panels.
 
Its obvious you ( and many of the posters here) have no idea what you are getting yourself into . Please wait until you have a friggin clue as to what you are doing. Don't take it out on the car.
 
The best source for step-by-step rebuilding is to join one of the clubs and talk with the guys who have been where you are. Let them look at the car.Club USA has a complete guide to download if you join and it will point you in the right direction. Great to have a youthful enthusiast aboard. Enjoy the car, and don't get discouraged. All it takes is time and money. And you've got a lot more time(left)than most of us guys with these cars. Good luck, Bob
 
Hey TriCarb,
First of all, real nice to see a 25 year old has got the Healey bug !! Good for you as some of us older guys wonder who will become the stewards for these great cars down the road. Anyway, I would highly recommend that you join the Austin Healey Club USA at www.healey.org and read/print out the outstanding restoration article series done by Gary Anderson and Roger Moment. It will take you through most everything you will come across in restoring a big Healey. Will detail some of the issues you have mentioned and what it takes to repair them. Plus simply show you it is a challenge but a very rewarding one when completed. Be the best $45 you can spend.
Good luck,
Mike
 
Brinkerhoff said:
Its obvious you ( and many of the posters here) have no idea what you are getting yourself into . Please wait until you have a friggin clue as to what you are doing. Don't take it out on the car.
Click to expand...

True enough words (obviously, you have already learned everything there is to know about Healeys--I'm still learning myself, but it's only been 29 years of passionate stewardship).

When I bought my BJ8, almost 30 years ago, I had no idea what I was getting into. I just wanted that car, and the guy who was selling it in the Palo Alto Concours parking lot knew he had me hooked from the first second. Little did I know what I was getting myself into: a lifelong passion for Austin-Healey automobiles and the people associated with them, the joy and Zen, and sounds and smells, of cruising for hours on open and forested highways and the occasional twisty, a rekindled relationship with my expert mechanic father, the frustrations and disappointments and ultimate satisfaction from trying to learn new skills--mechanicals, welding, auto electronics, bodywork--the almost spiritual bond with what most modern tuner car drivers would consider a mechanical monstrosity, my father's surprising new love of Healeys, and his 'barn find' factory 100M (we're currently restoring it, and we'll both tell you we had no idea what we were getting into, even though he has previously restored many cars).

I still don't know what I've gotten myself into, but I'm having a marvelous time figuring it out. You go for it, young man.
 
im going to join the healey usa club to get the guide. as for knowledge and expeience. im a member of a local british car club and many of them are diy and have done stuff similar to what im going to do. they will be helping during the critical phases of the process. so this will not be done unsupervised.
so my gameplan is to
1 buy the welder, give it to my friend so he can acquainted with the machine.
2. take the car to a local healey owner's shop, he's a good friend whose got a bj8
3. read the restoration guide.
4. read the restoration guide.
5. break the car down to the point where you can see the inner panels. not removing the shrouds.
im still quite a ways away because i NEED to acquire more intimate knowledge about the assembly of the healey's body.
but the simple fact that i know someone who welds is very exciting to me as bodywork is all i have.
i will post more pics with the interior stripped i think that might help asses the situation. thanks guys i know these things get crazy but you only live once, and i got a healey!
 
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