Part left over - HELP!!

[Tinster]

If I change the oil every 1000 miles- do I even need a filter?

Probably not. Assuming of course you want to continue getting greasy every 1000 miles.

<span style="color: #990000">Randall-
Probably by the time I reach another 1000 miles driven.....
the markets will have recovered and I'll be able to afford
the spin on filter adapter!!

d</span>

 

[tdskip]

Push the car Dale - don't start her until this is very well sorted.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Dale, you can install the canister (and o ring) without the filter. Top off the oil, and start the car to move it out and back into the garage. One caveat is if there is no oil pressure after a reasonable time, turn it off.

 

[poolboy]

That little winged washer you are frantically looking for is just to hold all the bits togeather while you re-install the parts. it's not necessary.
And it's ok that the other parts are different. as long as they fit your car.

I'm not so sure that's all it does though. I believe it also helps keep the filter element centralized in the cannister shell.
When I had to take the bolt completely out of the shell to replace the oil seal under the head of the bolt, I had to tap down 2 or 3 projections on the bolt, inboard of the centralizer to slip the bolt out of the shell. After I replaced the oil seal and reassembled the components, I reestablished the projections with a center punch, peening them on the bolt. The whole thing stays intact when you change filter if you do that.
Soon after, I went with the Mocal and sold the can on ebay.

 

[2wrench]

Wow, Dale. Listen, you've got good advisors, here, but at the sake of
telling you what you want to hear, I'm concerned you could be playing
with fire, a bit, on this filling it and going thing.

Please do yourself a favor and obtain and install the after market spin-on
adaptater. At what you're paying, it will quickly pay for itself...and
save you a lot of grief. As you've removed the oil cannister to change
your oil, the adapter takes the place of the cannister and is screwed with
the same cannister bolt right to the block. From there, the oil filter is
spun off and screwed back on, basically, hand tight.

Still a little tight to get out without removing the cluthc slave
cylinder, but it can be done. If I can do it, you can.

I believe, notwithstanding what you've heard by way or horror stories
(exception, but not the rule,) that you will be way better off.

Again on starting the car thing, if you could push her, it is sure a safer
thing to do. Just can't tell what might happen if the cannister blows oil
everywhere and you lose pressure. Rule of thumb is: Loss of oil pressure...
SHUT IT OFF!

 

[Brosky]

Go buy a BIG BAG of kitty litter and use it to soak up the oil. You can then shovel or sweep it into a pile top dispose of it.

 

[Brosky]

And after you soak up the big mess, keep adding more dry litter to the floor and sweeping it up. If you flat block it over the spill on concrete, it will be as clean and white as it was yesterday. This is done by using a flat piece of wood, like a small section of 2X4 and keep smoothing it over the litter, grinding it into the concrete. It will pull all of the oil out and the concrete will look brand new. You will need to wear a mask, as it gets dusty, but that's the only pitfall. It will save your floor and marriage.

 

[Brosky]

OK, Dale the spin on adapter will be shipped out of CT tomorrow. Save that big round seal to install this unit. For some reason, it was missing from the kit. the copper washer and spare are there for the bolt, but no big seal.

Pickup a Fram PH3600 oil filter and you'll be good to go.

This is the way it should look when mounted, or slightly tipped towards 5:30PM. DO NOT mount it horizontally.

 

[14dna]

Dale

Paul has given you good advice,and is sending you the part to fix this car properly.
Kitty litter will save your marriage and the filter kit will save your engine.
this guy must be superman.. Three cheers for you Paul.



Dave

 

[Brosky]

Happy to help. And that reminds me, I owe Banjo a package too!! I didn't forget, I'm just slow. And my garage is slowing getting cleaned out.

 

[DougF]

It's a $2000 rebuild.......

You wish!

I agree. You're talking $3-4 grand or more on a complete rebuild. I'm afraid to get out my Bomar Brain to figure out what I have into mine and I have a long way to go.

 

[terriphill]

Dale, Be sure its NOT the clumping kind of liter though and just the plain clay stuff (You really don't want to know how I know this... :b)

 

[poolboy]

Paul, shouldn't the filter be rotated more in the clockwise direction to clear the clutch slave cylinder?

 

[DNK]

Not sure if the filter will hang down straight on Dales. Mine is more at the 7:00 location.

 

[2wrench]

Paul, shouldn't the filter be rotated more in the clockwise direction to clear the clutch slave cylinder?

Typo...I think he meant to type 6:30. We mean no harm, Paul. Sorry. Gotta love us.

 

[2wrench]

OK, Dale the spin on adapter will be shipped out of CT tomorrow. Save that big round seal to install this unit. For some reason, it was missing from the kit. the copper washer and spare are there for the bolt, but no big seal.

Pickup a Fram PH3600 oil filter and you'll be good to go.

This is the way it should look when mounted, or slightly tipped towards 5:30PM. DO NOT mount it horizontally.

I'm always blown away by Paul's engine photos. Check out the adjustable cam gear sprocket.
Holy Toledo.

 

[DNK]

It's a good thing he's in bed

 

[RonMacPherson]

Only thing, I would change on this magnificent gift is the filter choice.

The Fram should be last, or next to last selection. Get your parts house to convert it over to Napa Gold, Or Wix, or Hastings... All made a lot better.

 

[Tinster]

It's a $2000 rebuild.......

You wish!

I agree. You're talking $3-4 grand or more on a complete rebuild. I'm afraid to get out my Bomar Brain to figure out what I have into mine and I have a long way to go.

<span style="color: #990000">Here on the island- (if you could find a machine shop willing
to work on a TR6) the cost would easily be $30- to $40K PLUS parts.

for example: connecting rod bushing costs $2.00/ea plus $37/ea shipping

On point reply-
I just spent another 3 hours labor trying to install the oil filter canister
with the filter, spring and bulgie part. No luck whatsoever. The spring
pushed all the parts away from the block so the bolt threads cannot get a grip.

Blargh- should have paid the $85.

Don/Paul- It looks to me the clutch slave, fuel pump, fuel hoses and dizzy
have to be removed to install the spin on adapter. Is this correct?

thanks,

dale </span>

 

[tdskip]

I found that my filter didn't want to fit in a completely vertical position when I installed mine.

Fitting it can be a pain - very fiddly sort of job but totally worth it.

You should not have to remove anything Dale - the steering column has a bit of flex in it that you'll use and I ended up under the car to install mine.