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Tips

Of fuel gages

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Black ground wires are for dash lights, attach them to the center post of any insturment.

If you have the green and the green/black backwards on the guage it just will try to work backwards, reverse them.
 
Shouldn't smoke! Check other connections to those wires! Do you have a short on one of them? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif Is insulation between posts and inst. body good?
 
Hey jack, try hooking an ohmeter from the wire that goes to the sender to a good ground and read the resistance. That resistance should change with the fuel level. About any fuel gauge should peg high or low depending on polarity when a hot and ground are applied straight to it. I bet those gauge people will charge a fortune. Be very careful when changing the faces, the inner part you have to work the gauge needle through and not damage the movement.
 
Lets not smoke gages at all please. Yep I destroyed one long ago learning how they went together.


Oh yea, did that pegs high on resistance, sender is fine me thinks.
 
I think the smoke was coming from the wire that I was using to ground the gauge. The guage seems to be working now. Although it bounces on its way up to 3/4 full. And then bounces back down when I turn off the key.
 
Oh, one more thing if the resistance of the float sensor is a lot less than that of the meter, the meter might read full voltage even when this realy is not due to the meter not putting enough load on the circuit. Especially a digital meter. Best to work with ohms. Guys you can test a gauge with a 9v battery. It may not go all the way to max but you also are apt to do less damge if it is hooked up wrong. It should move from e across to amost full anyways. At least you can see it move and get your polarity right.
 
This, I think, is an actual Bugeye Fuel Gauge, with the screw terminals...

And this one is available... I didn't put it in my list I posted the other day because it was hidden in a box I forgot about.
 

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Chris let me get back to you in a few.
 
How does the face look Chris? Have you tested it? Whatever seemed to be working earlier is finished. The guage is a 0 and not moving. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif
 
Kim, if you send my your address I'll send you one to play with and see if you can make it go, The front of it is outstanding so careful, hehe.
 
This it is, as is.

Sorry to say this but I just followed Jack's lead and put a 9v battery across it and got nothing, so it may be dead.
 

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Foooooot
 
If it's the induction coil one (and it IS) the needle should move as it is rocked (gauge vertically held) radially side-to-side. It's a central pivot movement.
 
The needle moves freely from side to side as I roll the gauge in my hand, but unless all my 9v batteries in my "new battery" drawer are dead, this gauge is defunct.

I am very sorry to have raised hopes and then dashed them again.
 
We have to be able to fix these things and maintain the originality. I know you can send them off and spend megga bucks but there has got to be a better way. Most gauge movements are very simple. I went through my tach when it started hanging up and managed to just bend a piece of metal a slight amount and it freed up. Now that was complicated. Has two coiled springs like a watch. One forward and one reverse. Very good original craftsmanship.
 
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