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New Pertronix Distributors Available!

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I looked at that, Doc, & they are! & like Keoke said, if it gives you problems on the side of the road, just toss in some points to get you home!

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Yeah Doc, n you still got that old Lucas thing you know wid the floppy weights and springs n things in the boot and it too will get you home even if the advance curve is off a bit.--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Hmm, Flopper thing with fire. I like that.
 
WEll, at present the only "pointless" car in the inventory is Diesela. It's likely to stay that way. I ~may~ consider an electronic "magic box" for the Elan after the engine rebuild, but that'll be "down th' road apiece."
 
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-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif


Wkillheffer, that problem will go away if you switch to "HD's"---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

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Sorry to seem ignorant, but what's that? My current carbs are HS4's. At least the throttle shafts are still tight.

Thanks,
 
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WEll, at present the only "pointless" car in the inventory is Diesela. It's likely to stay that way. I ~may~ consider an electronic "magic box" for the Elan after the engine rebuild, but that'll be "down th' road apiece."

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Diesela is the only car in your inventory that doesn't even have spark plugs! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Wkilleffer, HD's are a type of SU carb. However, if you have Hs 4's I think you will need the HIF Carbs see the post about them on this forum.They will solve your problem too.--Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]

Wkilleffer, HD's are a type of SU carb. However, if you have Hs 4's I think you will need the HIF Carbs see the post about them on this forum.They will solve your problem too.--Keoke

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Not sure if I want to get into changing carbs. They're awfully expensive if they're worth having. Also, even though my car's a '74, the engine's a 1971-era 18GK. So, these are technically the proper carbs. Either way, I can't drop the dough for new ones. The old ones are sound except for the jets coming apart, and that's a less expensive fix.
 
Old SU's are great carbs - main difference between HS-4's & HIF-4's is that HIF-4's had integrated fuel bowl (& some extra brackets to support the accelerator cable)...if your caerbs are buildabvle - do that...you can do it yourself if you understand the basics of SU carbs - & there's a little pamphlet about rebuillding SU's that simplifies everything.
 
mehheh... his ream is workin' well, then. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Well, I ordered and just received a Pertronix distributor as well. What Tony didn't show us is the important part under the points plate. It's the same distributor that Moss sells as a replacement unit, but with a minor modification. There's a small steel plate that's wedged in place to limit the timing and the vacuum advance. It offers 13 degrees of advance and a fast curve. Most of the timing is in by 1800 rpms - half is in before you get out of idle. This would be a better curve for a supercharged application. It also uses the same knackered springs as the moss unit. The majority of the distributor is made in India. You say it looks too nice for that? Try installing and adjusting points before you pass judgement!
Jeff
 
Well, I didn't disassemble mine to look under the plate & wouldn't know about curves & advance...I do know that if its the same as the replacement unit for '62-'71 cars (143-115), there won't be any problems with normal or spirited driving...I've got one of the 143-115's on my '67 GT & except for burning points once (my fault), it does exactly what its supposed to!

Oh, where'd you find "India"?
 
So who's got an old Sun dizzy "spin-up" machine??? That'd be as "cost-effective" as any electro-whizz-bang dizz IMO. And a lot longer lived.
 
Tony, I was reading through one of the forums and someone actually posted the order forms for all the components of this distributor and various other "Lucas" reproduction parts. It was from a company in India. It was several pages long and appeared authentic.

The only ral issue that I see with this distributor is one common to most Lucas units - the advance comes on before idle. Most of your functional advance is lost at speeds where you don't need it. The B runs better wih 11 degrees of advance between idle and 2800 rpms. With the Pertronix distributor, you only get about 5 degrees of advance, since most of it comes in before idle.

Dr. Entropy, A Sun machine would cost in the range of $350-1500 these days. If anyone needs a distributor tested or recurved, I do them cheap! I have a Sun, a Snap-On, and a Weidenhoff distributor tester.
 
I have a pertronix distributor and a Flame-Thrower coil that I am about to install in my 78 MGB. Is there a step by step instruction available anywhere? Are there any issues I should be aware of?
 
Steve, just drop in the distributor (it only goes in one way) and attach the coil. Point the vacuum advance port in the same general direction as the old distributor. Attach the positive coil feed wire. Start the engine with a timing light handy. Set the timing to around 8 degrees BTDC, later adjust as needed for optimal performance. Advance the timing until the engine pings under load, then back it off 2 degrees at a time until it stops pinging. You should have 32-34 degrees of total crank advance when you're done.
 
I've got mine set up where it's a couple of degrees higher than the spec called for in the maintenance books. Seemed to work fine until the carb jets came apart.
 
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Or send them to "Banjo" for a rebuild. Worked for me.

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---Dart!,did you mean send them with the banjos intact to Nisongner for a rebuild?.---Keoke-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
So Tony, What is your price on this dizzy?

mark
 
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