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I don't want to appear pedantic but for correctness the BN4L number is the Chassis/Engine engine number and is the one used for legally registering vehicles. The actual 'body' number is a 4 digit number that appears on an aluminium plate also attached to the firewall.
 
if I wasn't already confused, I am totally now. are you saying that the motor is not the original engine that came in this car? it currently has an overdrive trans, so you are also saying that that is not the original trans? now you are talking about disc wheels, what is that? I assume that you are talking about a plain steel wheel with some kind of hubcap versus a chrome wire wheel?
 
Do you have chrome wires on the car? On the good side if your car originally came without overdrive it has a desirable (to some) differential.
 
red89c4 said:
if I wasn't already confused, I am totally now. are you saying that the motor is not the original engine that came in this car? it currently has an overdrive trans, so you are also saying that that is not the original trans? now you are talking about disc wheels, what is that? I assume that you are talking about a plain steel wheel with some kind of hubcap versus a chrome wire wheel?
Click to expand...

According to the car number, you don't have the original engine or transmission. As you guessed, disc wheels are a plain steel wheel with a hubcap.
 
This is mine the day I found it.

BN4L-S-444XX

Built just before yours.

TFR1

Rome, Georgia
 

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Your car has a non regional engine. The transmission might be original but an overdrive has been added to it. That is a positive and so is the fact that you have a 3000 engine. If your car has wire wheels then that is another upgrade that has been made to the car. All these things can be seen as positive, unless you are interested in creating a concours car based on how it left the factory
 
well I thought that the car was all original, but I guess not. so it is what it is and I will deal with it as such. when I order parts for the engine what would/should I request parts for?
 
You might want to check the other way- that the body isn't correct to the engine and the body tag has been added from a different car. Unique 1957 features you could look for are a redline at 4800, horzontal metal slider attachments where the hood frame attaches either side behind the shut pillars, ridge down the middle of the hood/bonnet, lock on the drivers door, metal draft excluder strips screwed to the body inside the door shut and a single central windscreen washer jet.

The engine would match a Mk1 3000 I believe

Andy.
 
Get a very straight board that is as long as the frame and put it againist the bottom of the rails. That will tell you if you have frame sag. My old frame was about 4 inches out! you could see the sag with your eyes. I had a new frame welded on, way beyond my welding skills.

jerry
 
well I got the engine up off of the floor from where I dropped it last week. I bent the valve cover hold down stud, a valve train stud, 2 push rods, and broke a valve train bearing cap. the good news is I got all of the underframe plumbing, wires and exhaust off and the right front suspension. I will get the left front off tomorrow. 2 more wkends and it should be ready for the blaster. almost time to start ordering body parts.
 
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