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Dont do it Don! =( I'm sure you'd end up regretting it greatly. I mean.. you even list it as your forever car in your sig!

Your car looks so nice and so close to completion. Right now I'm only dreaming about maybe getting nice new fenders and body parts, and realistically trying to figure out how well I can do body work and paint rust repair for fenders and stuff myself =D (and dang, that moss sale sounds like it was awesome!)

I would honestly say that if you end up having to move on short notice, it's worth renting a storage unit to keep it in till you can get it shipped out to you or whatnot!
 
I got you, Don. In my way I was just trying to motivate you to get going. But I have to admit I don't know what's going on in your life right now, so I'll just cool it.
But if I lived close to you...
 
So Don - I think one take away here is sell the fenders and floors separately so people don't incorrectly think there is rust to deal with.
 
Aye, and if it DOES come to you selling things off individually, I am interested in the fenders, inner sills, floors, and whatnot, because my tub is a pile of rust , and i'll be done engine / suspension / etc in the not too distant future, and need to tackle tub and fender repair =P

That said, I hope you keep it all and dont have to sell anything =(
 
So while not trying to give anyone a hard time here, but maybe if Don's decided to sell then he's decided to sell and we might want to respect that and focus on the question at hand which is where to price it and maybe help him get a fair value for it.
 
Don, if that car isn't running and the only barrier to driving it is the engine problem (and the engine problem isn't fatal/expensive to fix), I wouldn't take less than roughly $10,000 for it. No rust, new body panels, lots of nice resto work. Unless the engine is blown to bits it shouldn't be that hard/expensive for a new owner to get it running.

What would it take to get the engine going? What does it need? If you sell, be sure to explain that in your ads. An experienced restorer will know off-hand how much it will cost to fix.

Put it on eBay with a reserve somewhere near $10K. See what happens. If it doens't sell, you haven't lost much at all. Then you can decide if you want to sell it for less and reduce the reserve next time around.

This is a buyer's market for some cars, seems there are a lot of Tr-6s on the market right now which tends to reduce sales prices. But, you never know with auction sales, which can sometimes generate good money if a bidding war erupts, etc.

Write a good, concise ad with lotsa photos and go for it.

Good luck, let us know. :yesnod:
 
I think Mark is on the right track - if you want to see how the market does - put it on ebay - low cost and lots of visibility. But spend the time to do it right with good pictures, clear description, emphasis on the high points which are many and some discussion of what it might take to be roadworthy.

And I'd vote for you to keep it if it helped, but again that is your decision Don - I think we'll still respect you in the morning no matter which way you go here!
 
Don , sorry to hear you've decided to sell something you've spend so much time on. The market being what it is , I don't think many will pay a premium for a car that isn't running. Why? too many out there for $10 grand or less you can just hop in and drive away. I agree that taking a lot of nice pictures and marketting it on ebay will be the best way to find the market price on this one. Beyond what is inside the engine or whats been done to the suspension be sure to show with pictures how nice the frame is etc. Good Luck.
 
vagt6 said:
Don, if that car isn't running and the only barrier to driving it is the engine problem (and the engine problem isn't fatal/expensive to fix), I wouldn't take less than roughly $10,000 for it. No rust, new body panels, l...
Good luck, let us know. :yesnod:
Click to expand...

Mark , the motor is completely rebuilt and was not started since.
As per first post

Motor bottom end balanced lightened and new pistons and all parts.
Lightened Flywheel
TSI camshaft, 9.5:1 TSI head and springs
New SU's
Rebuilt original Stroms
Thanks again
 
Don- You need to change the title of this thread to something like "Okay, got your thoughts, you can all stop now".
Dave
 
One last post
Been absorbing all the the thoughts.
Now If I did start the motor for the first time, how detrimental is it to the motor that it probably won't be started for quite awhile after the first?
 
If the engine hasn't been started since the new cam, you have to do the break-in procedure followed by an oil and filter change.
After that, I wouldn't see a problem putting the engine in storage mode.
 
Cept for the oil leaking out of it.
I must have one of the few TR's that have not leaked in 14 years
 
No oil leak? Are you absolutely certain you ever even put oil IN it?
 
There ya go. No oil, no oil leaks. Why didn't I think of leaving the oil out of MY LBC to prevent oil leaks?
You need to write an article on the wisdom of leaving the oil out to prevent oil leaks.
Think of the "green" awards you will garner!
algore may even come to your house!
 
I always heard that if the LBC sitting in your driveway was not leaking at least one vital fluid, there are only two possibilities.
1. It is not an LBC
2. There aren't any vital fluids in it.
 
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