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My Toyota - replacing the head gaskets...

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Yup, I've got the marker and tape going too. Also taking pictures of the stuff I'm not labelling. Most of the vacuum lines have a distinct number on them, so the pictures will help there.

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A trick someone taught me a long time ago is to use a paint pen to mark lines and connectors. Make dots with the paint pen on both the line and where it attaches. Match one dot to one dot, 4 dots in a square to 4 dots in a square, etc. Easy to do, easy to see and doesn't come off like masking tape labels can. If you let them dry well before manhandling them, they're very durable. I usually "dot" everything before starting the job, so everything is dry before I start.

I know what you're going through removing all the cr*p from a modern V6. I helped a friend change the valve cover gaskets on a Mazda MX6 V6 - simple job once you could see them. Getting all the cr*p out of the way took 2 days. Inline 4s (even modern ones) are so much easier.
 
I've got a question... I've got the lower intake off now, and one of the cam covers... Book says remove the cam - but I believe I can get to all the head bolts without removing the cam...

Is there some other reason for removing it that I'm not aware of?

'cause if it's just for access to the head bolts, I'm leaving it in there.
 
prolly to make it easier to reach the head bolts. I replaced the head gasket on my Mitsu Mighty Max (inline 4... different beast I know) and it had an over head cam too. I was able to remove the head with the cam still in place. Just had to make sure the timing belt pulley was no longer attached to the cam though... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
well, I'm done for today... Got the left head loose (this is the one that had the headgasket blow), but the exhaust studs won't let me get it off /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

Oh, well - here's todays parts table...
192536-parts2.jpg
 

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Interestingly.. I figured you guys might like to see what the plugs in this head looked like...
192540-plugs.jpg


The one that was in the rear cylinder, looks like it's been through heck.
 

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Ya know... When I get this thing back together... I'll never complain about working on a 4 cylinder again.

Might even sell the danged thing. and get something else... But then I wouldn't know what I'm getting... *&$#@
You can't win.
 
Sooo true! Mebbe an ol' beat up Land Rover? Everso much less complex, carries about everything short of an elephant or hippopotomus and MUCH more suited to your "demeanor" IMHO /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Well... Problem with that theory is: I bought this truck a year ago to haul the family on long distance vacations, and to haul my boat. An old Lnad rover won't have the emenities that'll keep the clan happy, and might have problems with interstate speeds.

I'd love one, but again, I just need a long distance people hauler that will pull a boat. Maybe I shoulda got the f250 crew cab deisel I looked at first.... But the 250,000+ miles on it scared me away. I also looked at mid eighties Range Rovers (the electronics and suspension problems scared me away), and a early nineties Jeep Cherokee (that was just butt ugly). My other choices were a Rav4, and PT cruiser - neither of which worked for me.

My wife's only concession was that it be black.
 
Out of all you mention the F-250 is "The ONE." Too bad.

Diesela has the "quarter" and still runs strong.
 
Omigawd, so that's what the inside of a 6 cyl Toyota truck engine looks like (got a 2001 Tacoma V-6). This just reinforces my resolve to not work on anything that doesn't have BSW (or maybe UNF) fasteners...
Our Honda hissed at me when I walked toward it with a wrench!
 
trade it in on something nice while it's still running - please!

I'd rather work on honda anyday!
 
Yup! That thing you got there is way too much effort. I did a favor for a friend a couple years ago: input shaft bearing on a five speed Honda Civic. Step One was acquire the factory book. That job was a cake walk compared to what you have there.
 
I actually had nightmare about that engine lastnight - weird.
 
Kenny, rember, the best way to pop those heads off is to leave the crossover pipe on the back and have a buddy help you lift both off at the same time.
Then disconnect the drivers side on the bench so you can reinstall them one at a time.
It really does work nice. I've done it both ways.
P.S. those are nightmare motors to do heads on. I'd rather work on a 1MZ-FE transverse mounted 3.0 V-6 in a Sienna van. They seem to come apart easier.
The Big Jag is coming home tomorrow, we'll see how that monster is to work on soon.
 
Get yerself a nice "boarding ladder" Ben!
 
I need the boarding ladder for the toyota... I been standing on a 5 gallon bucket the whole time.
 
I would welcome the change in height... I'm constantly on my knees while working on my B... if I'm not, my back kills me at the end of the day. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
I've a SawzAll... you got a pair a shoes wot'll fit yer kneecaps? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
At work we remove the front tires, then let it down on the lift till the rotors are just off the floor. Gains you a good 8" to a foot.
 
Hey banjo, I'll not be working on the toyota again til thursday, but how do you get at the downpipe nuts to get the sucker off? They're way down there on the bottom, and from the bottom they're way up there... Do I need a 2 foot long ratchet extension? Where in the world would I find such a beast?
 
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