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TR2/3/3A My Reassembly journey

DavidApp

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Like John I have decided to open another thread for the reassembly of the TR3.

I went ahead and got the leaf springs from Eaton Springs. They were higher than the ones from Rimmer Bro. ones but they look much better. Because the original material is no longer available they were made using 5160 steel which is stronger so he went with 5 leaves and calculated it would give about 150 lb rate. They are tapered at the ends like the drawing shows and when I put one in my crude tester I got 134 lb/1" of movement.

The front to rear brake pipe was a bit too long and as I do not have the flaring tool I decided to make a loop in the pipe to lose the extra.

Replaced the Fork. Operating shaft and bearings in the clutch release mechanism. The square headed pin in the old one was sheared off and it took a lot of effort to get the old one out.

Got the motor and gearbox mounted in the frame. I drained the gearbox oil and noticed it was kind of black. Probable long past time to change it. Will any 80/90 weight GL4 work in the gearbox. I think that there is a tractor 80/90 GL4 for old Fords available locally.

David
Brake pipe too long.jpg
Pipe too long.

Springs.jpg
Any idea what this clip is for? It is right behind the axle retaining strap on the passengers side.
 

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David,
That clip is for the fuel tank overflow tube. Once you get the body on and the fuel tank in ,you will be looking for that clip.
 
Yup, sure does. I blocked mine off to avoid that; let the tank vent through a small hole in the inner cap.
 
Looking Good Dave!!!!!. You probably know this, but like you said you are putting together a boxed up project. Well anyways see how the E brake cable has that slack, and it just kinda blowing in the wind. There is a hook/eyelet on the tub and I saw yours was bent over in a previous post. Well there is a spring that goes in the eyelet and then grabs the E-brake cable and pulls it up. If you need it, I will try and find a pic.
Peace out
 
scihrkv.jpg
 
For the "long" front to rear brake line did you leave the loop where the jacking point on the frame is? See the upside downpict.
 

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I bought GL4 at a local ag store, can use it in my TR4 and in the 42 John Deere B. How very convenient.
 
Thanks for the hand brake cable tip.

I did do the loop for the jack. If I had known I would have made the loop bigger.

Spoke to the local John Deere dealer and he said that GL4 has been discontinued and deleted from their system? Napa said just use GL5 it will be fine. Probable order it from TRF.

David
 
Napa said just use GL5 it will be fine.

There are two potential problems with GL5; which your NAPA may not be aware of:
1) Some GL5 formulations use more of a particular additive that can, over time and usage, break down and corrode the brass components inside the gearbox. I suspect (but cannot prove) that was the cause of this thrust washer (from a Stag differential) being so black and worn.
dcPNPcM.jpg


2) Some GL5 oils (mostly synthetics?) can be too slick for good synchro operation. Synchros are basically a brass-on-steel friction clutch; so you don't want oil that will protect against that.

Personally, I'm rather fond of Redline MT-90 and use it in all my Triumph gearboxes. Kind of expensive, but it is GL4 and optimized for synchro operation. Made a distinct improvement for me; and I've heard from others that it actually reduced or eliminated "clash" (a sign of a slipping synchro ring) when shifting.
See https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil for more info/advertising copy.
 
Bought my GL4 at Shiptons, a local farm supply store.
 
Dave I have used detergent free 30 weight oil in my gear boxes for 45 years and they shift fine and look good on the inside. The manual and the Haynes book says that is what to use. I believe Randall showed how the manual was updated to something else, but I have been comfortable dumb about it for 45 years. I do drive conservatively.
 
It was TRF or Moss. More likely TRF as I get more from them I will check to see if I can find my order. I do not keep the invoices in a folder because I don't want to know how much this is costing me. It is worth it as I am having a blast brining the old girl back to like.
I do recall reading about people using 30 weight oil. My Ford Ranger manual uses ATF in the gearbox. I had to go back and double check before I refilled it.

David
 
David,

Do you happen to have a Miller Oil distributor close to you? They do GL4 and lots of other stuff.

Cheers
Tush
 
Must have been TRF because the Moss ones are lighter weight. Did you order recently? TRF is real good about original stuff, but I often forget that, just burnt out I guess?
 
I found the spring tab. Lucky it did not get caught up in the repair in that area because I did not realize what it was. It was so bent over and that area was a bit trashed when the PO replaced the floor.
I have straightened it out now.
Thank you for the Heads Up on that.


David
 
Just recieved the center exhaust hanger from TRF. Should it be painted? If so what colour?

The one that came in ythe kit was missing parts. There was a new rear hanger but only the partial center one. There was a New SS exhaust system included.

Just home long enough to open car parts packages then on the road again.

David
 
I have been spending too much time out of town with short breaks at home.

Bit of an up date on my progress.

I have the under body fixed, painted with PUR15, primed and painted with the final colour. The body is mounted on the frame and I have the inside of the body painted.

I have to fit the doors and cut out the braces, Hopefully nothing moves when the braces are cut out.

David


Getting the underside sand blasted.jpg
POR15 on the underside.jpg
Car front 5.15.18.jpg
 
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