• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Wedge My new toy: 1981 TR-8

Share this page

If the solenoid is on the starter and it clicks, the ground is good. make sure the main wire from the battery to the starter is connected. test light on the big bolt on the starter, have a helper turn the key to start. light stay on? if it does then either the solenoid has quit or the starter has issues.

A good automotive alternator and starter rebuilder in your area should be able to tell you to the part number what's wrong.

five months out of a starter is a little short, but not unheard of if it was a rebuilt one. Half the time a rebuilt one means that a used one came in, if it worked they painted it and put it in a clean box.

I have one of TSI's on mine, brand new. seems like I could run down the road just on the starter.
 
As was said before, get the starter checked. The dash light was a bit of a red herring. I had the same/similar problem. Once I got everything done the old starter (and mine looked like it might have been original) gave up the ghost.

I ordered the gear reduction from TSI. I think it's brilliant. It's much smaller and lighter (which makes installation a million times easier) and it spins the car up very quickly!

Jody
 
No, you are hearing the relay in the back of the glove box. I would check the Orange/white wire on the top of the solenoid above the starter. If you want to check the starter, use a jumper wire between the main power and the connector for the orange/white wire as a direct contact. IT'S GONNA SPARK, so be careful!

I still bet you that the wires are burnt right next to the down pipe or along the block to the alternator.
 
Hmmm, didn't know about that one.

Those of you who know everything are very intimidating to those of us who think we do.
 
71MKIV said:
...Those of you who know everything are very intimidating to those of us who think we do.
Click to expand...

welcome to my world
 
A lot has happened over the last few months. I finally took my car to a shop that works on older sports cars here in Austin. I have been through 3 alternators and 2 starters since Oct. I have been through several bouts of running for a few days then dieing, back to the shop for a couple of weeks then starting the whole process over again. My bank acount is much lower now than it was in Oct. And it ain't over yet.
Had a problem a couple of days ago where the car would just die with no notice. I let it set for about 5-10 min. and it would start and run for a few blocks and die again. This went on until I was able to limp home.
For the last few days, it has been running with no problems, except for a continuing headlight problem (in privious discussion). The headlights will not pop up. The lights come on, but no movement?
Also, have developed a back light cluster problem. The passenger side back lights don't work - have replaced all the bulbs (they work on the driver side)? Does the light housing have anything to do with the bulbs comming on?
Will continue to work on light problems tomorrow.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Lack of a good ground can cause things to seek grounds in weird ways .[/QUOTE]

Remember my thread where I left the ground wire off of the bracket when I swapped alternators. That fried a throttle cable and made it jam the throttle about 3/4's open. That could have been VERY bad.

So yes, by all means check and double check every ground for a good mechanical and electrical connection. As is tight and clean.
 
Mike -

A shot in the dark, but here's what happened with mine (now Brosky's) soon after I got it all put together and running nicely:

It would act just as yours did - run great, then for "no reason" just shut down, or cut in and out abruptly. It also affected the cooling fans' operation. I tracked down everything I could; thought it was heat related, as it was summer; checked all the grounds. It was driving me nuts (doesn't take much...).

Finally found the issue: At some point in my restoration, I had pinched one of the white wires that are in the harness that goes to the coil and fans. It was an intermittent short, which was why it was so hard to find.

Not that it is your issue, but as you're checking, be sure to inspect each wire carefully; and not only at their connection points!

Good luck,
Mickey
 
OK, Most of the problems with charging and starting of TR8s comes from the cable bundle on the right side of the car. The wires melt together. On the carburatored cars, it's a real problem because the power for the fuel pump comes from the oil pressure switch. I have rebuilt two so far, one for FI an one for Carbed cars. You will have to disconnect the red connector under the dash in the passenger footwell. Now you can remove the harness.

Your goal is to move all the cold side wiring (alternator and oil pressure switch) to run in/along the frame. As per the Repair Bulletin, you will want to run a new exciter wire from the alternator to the starter instead of it going to the connection on the right wall of the passenger foot-well.

Here is a write up on doing the repair.

https://web.me.com/jclaythompson/tr8/Wiring_Harness.html
 
Oh, yeah - Clay's post just reminded me. On carbureted versions with the three-connector oil pressure switch, it's critical that it's wired up correctly. Found that out the hard way as well - starter took on a life of its own, sometimes at the most inopportune time!

And the right side bundle Clay mentioned is where the issue I posted earlier reared its ugly head.

Mickey
 
The reason you want to run a new exciter wire is because the connection in the foot well corrodes causing a weak connection. This one thing burns out the alternators because they think that the battery is low and will charge at full power trying to bring the battery up.

If you have a fuel injected car, there is one wire that runs from the starter to the ballast.

Now, the rear lights. There is a ground connection right in the middle of the housings. These get corroded and will not make a good connection. You can usually tell because the brake light/running light will dim when the blinkers are on. Some times they will blink together. Clean all your grounds in the rear. Also there is a connector where the ribbon cable ends under the carpet in the boot.
 
As Mickey said, there is a problem with that switch if wired incorrectly. Why?

Because the power to the fuel pump on carbed cars comes from TWO places. The starter and the oil pressure switch and they connect together. So, if the wires burn and/or fuse together, your oil pressure switch will send current to the starter solenoid at inopportune times.

How do you check it. Disconnect the main high tension lead to the distributor. Turn the engine over until the oil pressure light goes out, stop turning it over and listen for the fuel pump. It should be running, but it will stop as soon as the oil pressure light comes back on.

Believe me, this ONE wiring harness is the main reason that people butcher the wiring on TR8s! They don't know why their cars stop running, so they start messing with the inertia switches, rerouting the dual relay wires, messing with the fuel pump wires. It's just horrible.

The wires run right past the down pipe/exhaust header and clip to the block. The heat from the exhaust literally burn the insulation away and melt the wires together.

DSC_0002.jpg
 
As for the cutting out. Check the connector from the distributor to the ballast. Is it tight or does it move a little. Pull it off and crimp the female connectors in the plastic connector and replace. That was all that was wrong with mine.

(Oh, yes. Do the lights come one even though they don't raise? Do you have the bad habit of slamming down the headlight switch? If so, then push the switch up hard, now push it down slowly and gently. Did you light rise up? If they did, then the plastic holder that the switch sits in is cracked on the bottom. When you forcefully push the switch down, this holder will give and not allow the switch to make a complete connection before the lever hits the bottom of the dash opening.)

Now, on the headlight not going up. First, disconnect the battery!!!! If you don't it could close by itself and do sever damage to your hand!

Remove the cover on the side of the motor and clean the contractors on the limit switch.

motor_assy_lg.jpg


Wedge Headlights
 
I am presently looking at the most obvious areas - relays and switches - concerning headlight inoperation. I have pulled the headlight switch and cleaned it as best I can. Also, I have pulled the hazard switch (read somewhere electrical signals ran from headlight switch through hazard switch), was corroded and cleaned it as well-but have not replaced it yet (tomorrow). Keeping my fingers crossed.
Replaced all the bulbs in rear light housing - all lights working well so far. Although the right turning light blinks faster than the left (?). Thanks to all who have made suggestions to my problems, most appreciated. I will look at all the suggestions as I go along.

Mike
 
I can't recall if you're a member of Hill Country Triumph club here in Austin. Come to the Feb meeting, tell us the story, you'll get a few offers from members to go to your house, have a fix it day, and voila! Your car will be running in no time reliably. My dad has a TR8 and I've had 2, plus dozens of other TRs. Be happy to help out.
 
Mikecyc...
I am not a member of HCT. I have considered joining, but have been lazy in that respect. I will come to the Feb. meeting and I appreciate the offer of assistance.

Thanks Again
 
It seems I have all the lights working, through a combination of cleaning switches, some new relays and bulbs.
However, my next task is to tackle the headlights not going up or down. I will read through all the discussions on the subject.
My state license is due next month, I am trying to get each issue completed first and move onto the next. Since I can drive the car in the daylight hours the tail lights were the most pressing issue.
 
As for the headlamps not going up or down, first check the dash switch
this is an item that does not wear too good

test with a jumper after you remove the switch
 
Back
Top