Wanted MK2 - Please, help needed

[herger]

Dear All,
Good morning!
I am searching for an MK2, and it seems I found a good candidate.
It is a 3.8, white (I like it very much), the interiors are brown (I ‘d prefer red, but elas…).
The car is “well preserved”:
- 120,000 km, engine perfectly working BUT never done a major overall;
- the part below and bodywork seem very good, but I would like your opinion, please;
- they ask for 29,900€.
My questions are
- is the engine reliable after 120k km, even if “perfectly working”?
- how much could it be to do a complete check/maintenance of the engine?

please, let me know, many many thanks in advance and best regards

Giacomo

 

[LarryK]

Get maintenance records for whatever they can show. 120K not bad if a refresh was done sometime in it's life. I just refreshed an engine two years ago for $750 US doing it myself.

 

[herger]

Great, thank You very much.
They vendor say he has very few details, as he purchased the car by the old wife of the owner, after he passed….
What do You mean with a “refresh”? What would You say it might be needed, after 120k ?
Thanks again!!

 

[LarryK]

A refresh to me is to tear down, lap the valves, readjust valves, check straigtness of head. See if piston bores are scratched or totally smooth, if within tolerance, hone and rering. Redo all bearings and seals, timing chains. Reassemble, breakin retorque head after 500 miles and agian at 1000. Change oil regularly at Jag specs. Technically an overhaul. Any reboring or grinding crank would be a rebuild.

 

[herger]

Ah, ok! Great, thank You so much!!!
So, the tear down (if I understand well) is done *without* lifting the engine out of the car, is that right?
My very best regards!!
Giacomo
P.S. what do You think of the car from the photos? Just Your feelings, please. Thanks!!!

 

[LarryK]

If you are experienced you can do a refurbish insitu. Not easy but doable. I have always taken mine out as I do a thorough clean and paint. Best out to blast waterways and replace core plugs. I have been doing these engines for a long time so what is easy for me might not be for someone else. Hard to relate shortcuts or what has to be done to what could pass. The original Jaguar Service manuals called it decoking and was done every 100,000 miles with a properly cared engine being done up to six times. Never saw one go twice, care was always forgone by then.

 

[herger]

Hi! I am going to look at the 3.8 MK2 at the end of August (summer vacation in Italy). Meanwhile I have *studied* the essential buyer’s guide by Thorley and I would have the following questions. Thanks in advance to anybody willing to answer:
- the car should be dated 01/1964: it should have the NON-synchro gear, is that right?
- is it better or worse, to have the non-synchro, in terms of reliability and durability?
- how to understand if the gearbox is the synchro or not??
- where should the plate And numbers be located? Has anyone of You some photos? In the guide and on internet I have found many clues, but no photos pointing directly to the 4 relevant numbers and their location.

another question, sorry: how to enable the *overdrive*? On the MK1 there should be a lever/handle in the dashboard, what about the MK2? Does the overdrive enter ‘always’, or dies it depend on the pressure on the accelerator???

many many thanks in advance, I feel I’ll have (many) other questions before the end of the month!

 

[LarryK]

A 64 should be syncrho, overdrive has switch on dash, plate should be on right inner fender by carbs, chassis number on firewall and serial number on radiator support on the right stamped in metal. That is US specs, do not know Italian specs. My French MK2 had all but, had two plates, one from manufacturer and one from French inspection.

 

[herger]

A 64 should be syncrho, overdrive has switch on dash, plate should be on right inner fender by carbs, chassis number on firewall and serial number on radiator support on the right stamped in metal. That is US specs, do not know Italian specs. My French MK2 had all but, had two plates, one from manufacturer and one from French inspection.

Thank You truly much!

 

[LarryK]

Could check with a local Jaguar club for help.

 

[herger]

Dear All,

good morning!
I have met the Jag MK2 3.8 I told You and I have fallen in love.....
Please: I need some help to understand if the Car is worth buying, it is my first classic car and I don't want to make mistakes...

The engine started immediately, but it has difficulty in keeping on at minimum: the Car has been stopped for a very long time. As soon as I turned on the engine, some black oil drops sprayed out of the exhaust: is it a problem? No smoke at all.

I attach some photos: please, I would kindly ask for help to understand if the underneath of the chassis is fine or not, especially for the front part of the chassis (the first 4 photos).
Please, look at those and let me know if You think it may be "normal" rust for a 60-year old Lady or not. Moreover, I have highlighted in yellow a strange "bend" I don't understand: may it be related or due to an accident or some crash?

I attach also some details of the crown at the front-left, hood (is it fine?), the engine (maybe the exhausts are too rusted?) and the panhard rod below.

Last question (for the moment): the Car does not have the plate, and the head of the engine has been changed, but no documents or history is provided. How can I check the engine number and see if it corresponds to the chassis one??

MANY, many, many thanks in advance to everyone who helps!!
My very best regards,

Herger

 

[LarryK]

Looks good from above. Crushed frame is from towing the wrong spot. Part replacement is a weld fix. Panhard has the usual rust, same as frame there is a panel weld replacement. Exhaust has bottomed out, needs proper hanging. If you can do the work on a 69 Jag, would still be a project. Have you checked the wiring behind the dash. There are two black knobs on each side, they let the dash come forrward to see. Wires are cabable of killing the car at ignition and the switches. I have one that was junked for the electrical problem. Why did they not detail the engine compartment? You have no plate, transmission pan is clean ( rebuilt )? Car serial number is on upper area to the right of the hood latch. I do not know the money they want, but with no plate, different head and rust work, too much of a project for a beginner. I have touched these old Jags for over 55 yrs., too much for a beginner. Even new seat covers is $4000 USD and doing it yourself. If you can afford shop work and 3 more months sitting without car, would be your decision. I have two MK 1s in restoration, been at it over 10 yrs., retired but still have other things to do.

 

[herger]

Looks good from above. Crushed frame is from towing the wrong spot. Part replacement is a weld fix. Panhard has the usual rust, same as frame there is a panel weld replacement. Exhaust has bottomed out, needs proper hanging. If you can do the work on a 69 Jag, would still be a project. Have you checked the wiring behind the dash. There are two black knobs on each side, they let the dash come forrward to see. Wires are cabable of killing the car at ignition and the switches. I have one that was junked for the electrical problem. Why did they not detail the engine compartment? You have no plate, transmission pan is clean ( rebuilt )? Car serial number is on upper area to the right of the hood latch. I do not know the money they want, but with no plate, different head and rust work, too much of a project for a beginner. I have touched these old Jags for over 55 yrs., too much for a beginner. Even new seat covers is $4000 USD and doing it yourself. If you can afford shop work and 3 more months sitting without car, would be your decision. I have two MK 1s in restoration, been at it over 10 yrs., retired but still have other things to do.

Hi, Larry, thanks truly much, You are really very kind, always!

Please, just to see if I understood properly: the frame at the front must be removed and another piece must be welded there, is that right? Is it necessary from an aesthetic point of view, or is it dangerous for the safety to use the car like this?

Sorry: I didn't know anything about the possible wiring problems... The electrical system should be original and "preserved". What do I have to check if I remove the black knobs at the sides? How could problems cause the car to be junked?
Do You think it may be possible that I start using the car, and then do the works spreading them in some years?
I attach some other pictures of the exhaust, the differential and what I have been able to reach from looking beneath the Car and inside the bonnet...

Thanks again and my very best regards,

Herger

 

[herger]

Sorry, again: I have checked the chassis serial number, it corresponds to a 1964 Jaguar MK2 3.8 with overdrive.
I don't know how to look for the engine and transmission numbers: in the guide, they say the transmission is almost impossible to see, while for the engine, I didn't understand where to look, *without* removing the engine from the car....
Many many thanks again!!

H

 

[LarryK]

Old wiring if original is a fire hazard. Sure, you can drive and fix. I cannot say yes, as I would need to see it up front. I do not know your experience with cars. I have seen the fires behind the dash that have ruined these cars, which means a whole new wiring harness. Very hard to piece and mend in the dash. The main electrics go thru and meet in the dash. I have repaired these cars for people and with our costs here of $80-$130 an hour for repairs can be staggering. I did suggest earlier, find a Jaguar Club near you and get someone to check the car for you. If you have a shop near you that you trust, then yes, you could possibly buy and have o going problems fixed. The front frame can be overlooked, but if it is hit in a crash that corner the reinforcing is gone. I mainly warning you to get someone close to look at the car, it is hard to evaluate from pictures from across the world. I got my first XK140 for $800 USD in 1964. I got my 1st MKI non runner in 1976 for $400, rebuilt engine and drove for another $500, in 2013 my second non runner for $2200. But, my newer XJ6s were more and my 1986 XJS V-12 $10,000 in 1992. I do my own repairs and maintenance. You need someone close to look at the car, or take your chance. Just remember, a bad experience is not the car's fault.

 

[LarryK]

Engine number can be seen from above. Along the block just above the oil pan to the rear on left side. Transmission has a tag riveted in place on left side. Car has to be on lift for that one.

 

[LarryK]

Nigel Thorley has three excellent books on the MKI and MKII very thorough and can teach you a lot and what to recognize and possible problems. "Jaguar MKI & 2", "Original Jaguar MKI & 2", and "Jaguar MKI& MKII the complete comparison". Actual pictures of where #s are.

 

[herger]

Thanks truly much! They ask for 29k€, here in Italy it is not too much, I have seen another one (a 3.4) which was in much worse conditions, at the same price. There are another 2 that I am looking at, in Italy, but in distant cities, which are more expensive, but the situation in the lower part of the car seems even worse (I attach a photo of a 3.8 for which they ask 38k€, just that You can have an idea).

Many many thanks again!!

 

[herger]

I have studied the first of the books by Thorley You suggest, I'll look for the other two!
If I buy, I will put a fire extinguisher below the front passenger seat.

The fact that in its life the car has been towed at least once, makes me think that it has already had some kind of problems that made the towing necessary....
Thanks to Your suggestions, I am planning to contact the official Jaguar workshop to look at the Car before deciding to buy it or not, with special focus to
- rust
- engine
- and wiring
do You think this may be fine?
You are very kind, thanks very much for all Your precious suggestions and recommendations!!
H

 

[LarryK]

Anybody that knows these cars is acceptable. Yes, engine, rust and wiring. 60 yr old cars that are not show cars are museum cars will have some sort of rust. Just get a professional to look at it, price is your comfort. Wiring at this age can crack, insulation can crack and just be plain brittle. Look close. The braided outside wrap is cloth, burns well.