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But not that one if your breathing system is good.

Miss Agatha only has one leak, and I am sure I know where it is and how to fix it. Just can not bring myself to pull the engine again yet.
 
Tony, the tube should not move 2", get that baby firmed up. Not painted IMHO and felt seal on the dip.

That should mix it up a bit :wink:

Pat
 
GB1 said:
Tony, the tube should not move 2", get that baby firmed up. Not painted IMHO and felt seal on the dip.

That should mix it up a bit :wink:

Pat
Click to expand...
Pat, I agree about the movement; however, the little plastic part of the dipstick tube that sticks out of the block was originally painted green.

& I took my crank pulley, water pump pulley & fan out of the parts washer this morning, cleaned them & sandblasted them. The crank pulley was painted green on the front side but had never been painted on the back side....guess it was sprayed after the engine was complete & the back side didn't get any paint.

The water pump pulley & the fan were both originally painted yellow.
 
You are probably right about the d stick, since I think that most of mine had the paint flaked off the plastic.

I agree about the pullies as well.

Pat
 
OK, we're talking the plastic dipstrick tube is moving, get a new one Tony. When you knowck out your existing plastic dipstick tubs, you'll see where has "knurls" if you will where it passes thru the block, they wear out over time, repalcing a plastic dipstick tube can often time be part of a normal A-series engine build, they are not terribly expensive. AS far as how the dipstick with the intergrated washer seals, they had a little slip on piece, that over the years come loose, thay are N/A as far as I know, so wy i make my own now, I used viton o-ring before, but the widdle down piece of hose works better, and the carb return spriung keeps everyhting in palce wat better than the factory ever did it.
FWIW, the 948 didn't have the plastic dipstick, or atleast that's how I remember it, they had a metal tube, the plastic tube came around with the 1098 and stayed on in the production throughout the 1275. Tony you can get a new thru Moss. When I put a new dipstick tube in, the knurls will grip the block and make the tube stay put alot better than a old worn one, I seal them where the meet the block exterior with a little black RTV. Hoep this helps
 
Thanks, Hap - I'll get one on order...found it in the Moss catalog!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]i make my own now, I used viton o-ring before, but the widdle down piece of hose works better[/QUOTE]
I can't envision that...maybe I'll just get a little o-ring.
 
If its a 948 theres no tube it simpley slips in the block.
Crank on 948 must breath easy as its does not leak I had a concern also and put a oring around the stick and a spring to hold it down. Ended up taking it off as It really doesnt need it.
 
texas_bugeye said:
If its a 948 theres no tube it simpley slips in the block.
Crank on 948 must breath easy as its does not leak I had a concern also and put a oring around the stick and a spring to hold it down. Ended up taking it off as It really doesnt need it.
Click to expand...
10CC engine - that's the 1098 w/2" mains.
 
On Tony's 1098, it should have the crankcase breather can on one of the lifter covers that the 948s didn't have, later on with the 1275 they moved the crankcase breather can to the timing cover as they got rid of the lifter covers, his engine should not breath from the dipstick tube, and any 948 owner can better this from what the factory did by adding a 1275 timing cover or a 1098 lifter cover to thier engine, in the case of the 1275 timing cover which also will get rid of the POS felt timing cover seal. The little 948 engine has so much room for improvement even by using other A-series engine pieces, 1098 rods that have a real small end bearing and no silly pich bolt comes to mind as one big improvement you can make to a 948 by simply using later parts. I can easily say the 948 is my least favorite engine in the A-series family, but alot of its shortcomings, except its lack of torque and power can be overcome with other A-series parts.
 
Miss Agatha, I think he is talking about us. He dosn't like your ever so soft felt timing cover seal nor your pinchie pinchie small end rod fitting.

He would be susprised to know that you and all your kin have a breather on the front valve lifter box and on the valve cover.

However, he sure is on the mark with lack of torque and power. But we know how to handle that prob don't we Miss, .060 over flat top pistons, 295 head, cam, H2 carbs, and 1275 exhaust. There, about 25 HP or so Miss Agatha, just what Dr. Healey ordered and BMC would not allow.

Oh wait, that won't work. That would make you almost a Seabring but for the brakes.

LOL, crazy mood today.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]On Tony's 1098, it should have the crankcase breather can on one of the lifter covers [/QUOTE]
Hap, mine has a downturned tube coming out of the front lifter cover that's connected to a straight tube that runs down alongside the engine & vents straight to the air - the can used on the later 1098's isn't there!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]<span style="font-style: italic">Wait, I find no pic on page 35 of the pully. Can not speek to the concours registery. In fact I find no mention in Horler of the front pully for a bugeye.</span>[/QUOTE]

<span style="font-weight: bold">Originality Guide for Restorations and Registry Inspections </span>says "Sometime during 9C engine series production, the color of the fan blades and pulley changed from red to yellow. When the color change took place is not known (red fans have been observed as late as AN5/14000). The four blade yellow metal fan was used throughout HAN6, HAN7 and HAN8 production."

<span style="font-weight: bold">Horler</span> says on page 32 "The fan blades and belt-driven hub were painted red on very early cars, but changed to yellow at an undefined point."
 
tony barnhill said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]On Tony's 1098, it should have the crankcase breather can on one of the lifter covers
Click to expand...
Hap, mine has a downturned tube coming out of the front lifter cover that's connected to a straight tube that runs down alongside the engine & vents straight to the air - the can used on the later 1098's isn't there! [/QUOTE]

OK, well that still means you breathing the crankcase there, and making the dipstick tube seal will not present a problem.
 
Found it Ray, thanks.
 
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