• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

MGB-GT MGB GT rubber bumper

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>I was close Tony, I think I made my point<hr></blockquote>

Yes, you were, chuck - but we've gotta watch it or we'll start hogging the BBS with non-British car info...somebody might get mad!
 
I thought I was talking about a British Car
shocked.gif
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Chuck Cougill:
I thought I was talking about a British Car
shocked.gif
<hr></blockquote> my bad
 
As the number of replies to Sherlock's origional post go UP
thumbsup.gif

Does the value of my GT go UP too???
crazy.gif
canpatriot.gif
 
no even though they are rare pieces, the prices of any GT hasn't started to climb like the roadsters has. Hang on to it for a few years, it will be a good investment
 
Okay fellows, a few photos are posted of the 74.5 RB and one of the 74 parts car. In the MG section, pictures 161, 167, 168, 184, 185, and 186 of 186 are mine. I'm not sure why, but these numbers correspond to picture id numbers 831, 829, 830, 832, 833, and 834, respectively. Except for the car being rained upon when I took the photo from the front, the car appears as I offloaded it from the car transport trailer. I can't claim to have pampered it since it landed in my driveway, but I'm working on that. The paint is original, and unfortunately has just enough surface rust and scratches to prevent color sanding, compounding and waxing to restore its original luster. The dash photos are post resto. I removed the dash and disassembled it. Rebuilt all switches, polished the chrome and cleaned the dashpad. Before final installation, I made sure that all of the switches and lights functioned properly. Car currently requires brake rebuild, front end rebuild (bushings), fuel pump rebuild, clutch hydraulics rebuild, battery, tires and the work associated with a repaint. The goal is to be on the road by end of June.

Have to get back to work.

Mike
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by NC Mike:
I removed the dash and disassembled it. Rebuilt all switches, polished the chrome and cleaned the dashpad. Before final installation, I made sure that all of the switches and lights functioned properly.

Mike[/QB]<hr></blockquote>

Looks like we both have a good head start on a great possession.
How long did it take you from start to finnish to remove and replace the dash and such? Just wondering how much time to set aside. I don't like to start somthing then leave it for a few days. Also, how did the chrome rings clean up?
Thanks,
Good Pics too

Paul
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by KLUTZ:


How long did it take you from start to finnish to remove and replace the dash and such? Just wondering how much time to set aside. I don't like to start somthing then leave it for a few days. Also, how did the chrome rings clean up?
Thanks,
Good Pics too

Paul
<hr></blockquote>


Removing shifter console, radio console, steering wheel, steering column covers, turn and wiper switches, glove box door and box, and finally removing the dash (in both cars) took about 3 hours. Keep in mind, I was taking notes about how wires were connected, i.e. wire color, type of connector, male/female, etc. so that I'd re-establish the connections correctly. Three screws along the bottom edge and six nuts along the top edge hold the unit in place. Three gang connectors on the drivers side end completely disconnect the dash electrics. Don't forget the speedometer cable, choke cable, and control cables for heat/air.
I probably spent 10-12 hours or so disassembling the dashes, choosing the best pieces, rebuiling switches and controls, and cleaning the dash. The chrome pieces cleaned up nicely. They bezels on the face of the speedo and tach come off easily with a short twist. There are slots in the bodies of the guages that correspond to the tabs on the back of the bezels.
Reinstallation didn't take as long as removal owing to familiarity gained by that point.
I took a little time to clean the 30 year's accumulation of dust from the bits and pieces that are typically concealed behind the dash before installing the cleaned unit. The absence of the dash provides good access to the fresh air door and defroster ductwork. It's a good time to remove and clean these items. The was apparently something living in the fresh air plenum judging by the amount of pine needles and pecan shells I removed from there.
smile.gif


Have to get back to work.

If I can answer any other questions, let me know.

Mike

PS One quick question of my own. I was looking through the 1950 something to 1974 shop manual for a clearance spec, and noticed that my engine is not listed in the book. The spec pages are borken down by engine number series, i.e. 18G, 18GA, etc. Mine is and 18V869Z, as I recall, and the book only shows up to a 600 series - 18V6--Z. Does anyone have a 1975 shop manual that might list the 800 series?
 
Paul

Don't forget to disconnect the oil line from the back of the guage. Both of my cars had enough range of motion to allow this to be done from above the dash after the dash has been disconnected and moved out of position.

Correction to my engine serial number: 18V836Z.
Same request for specs.

Thanks,

Mike
 
Back
Top