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MGB MGB flap and air box

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Aussie Chris

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Hi all
Just wondering if anybody knows how the flap and air box comes apart, the Moss Catalogue refer to it as a flap and air box what it does is direct
the flow of air. My box is in need of some tender loving care . Not sure how to remove centre spindle have a look at attached photos.

Regards
Aussie Chris
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Bencii,
Thanks for the response I ended up taking off the felt, stripping the paint off with paint stripper photo below showing primer coat then couple coats of satin black and now it is all back together. Question to check core I put it in a bucket of water
fInger on one outlet and applied pressure with compressor to check for air bubbles. I know it is only about 7 psi found that after
blowing a couple of welsh plugs before realising that the radiator cap was a 16 psi. Does sound okay to check matrix ?
BE6A7E1E-499B-4389-97A2-3CDBD5A5789D.jpeg

Regards
Aussie Chris
 
You're likely good for the core, Chris. Next time (if that ever happens!) use milk in it. Many decades ago my grandfather explained to me that milk will find ANY hole in a gas tank, milk jug or other vessel. It'll weep through holes even gasoline won't. I test fuel lines for Weber carbs fabricated out of stainless tubing, filled with milk and subjected to 40-PSI air pressure. Just rinse well with water post test.
 
Oh, and those plenums were originally gloss black. Just an FYI.
 
DrEntropy said:
You're likely good for the core, Chris. Next time (if that ever happens!) use milk in it. Many decades ago my grandfather explained to me that milk will find ANY hole in a gas tank, milk jug or other vessel. It'll weep through holes even gasoline won't. I test fuel lines for Weber carbs fabricated out of stainless tubing, filled with milk and subjected to 40-PSI air pressure. Just rinse well with water post test.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you for that it is really great to know some tricks of the trade that seems better than the bike tube repair trick.
Regards
Chris
 
Hi,
I was just wondering would you put some type of sealant on the thread on the water temp sensor nut to seal
or is not required ? You have been a great wealth of knowledge for me going forward each piece of advice has gone according to your directions, would it be possible to know your first name for future correspondence ?


Regards
Chris
 
That sensor is set into a tapered seat in the head, we've used a (very) thin application of anti-seize compound on it, the pressure from the nut is what seals the coolant from getting past the bulb. As for the nut, usually a Teflon pipe thread tape works fine.

Name? Around here, "Doc" is acceptable.
 
Doc,
Yet again thankyou for your advice it’s great to have a plan off attack confirmed by somebody who
knows what they are doing. I will post pics when completed.
Regards
Chris
 
Aussie Chris said:
Doc,
Yet again thankyou for your advice it’s great to have a plan off attack confirmed by somebody who
knows what they are doing. I will post pics when completed.
Regards
Chris
Click to expand...

Looking forward to the pix. As for someone who "knows what they're doing"... that's simply evidence of an ill-spent youth. 😉
 
DrEntropy said:
You're likely good for the core, Chris. Next time (if that ever happens!) use milk in it. Many decades ago my grandfather explained to me that milk will find ANY hole in a gas tank, milk jug or other vessel. It'll weep through holes even gasoline won't. I test fuel lines for Weber carbs fabricated out of stainless tubing, filled with milk and subjected to 40-PSI air pressure. Just rinse well with water post test.
Click to expand...
DrEntropy said:
Looking forward to the pix. As for someone who "knows what they're doing"... that's simply evidence of an ill-spent youth. 😉
Click to expand...
Doc,
Started putting back gauges in dash and notice they look a bit Smokey between glass and actual gauge I notice the chrome retaining ring has tabs bent over to hold everything together I thought bent back I could open up and clean but then I thought they would break off and then I am in a world of trouble what do you think ? Photo attached
Regards
Chris
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very much working from a very dim memory here but look again to see if there are slots that if you rotate the bezels they will come off.
 
Those bezels will (or should) rotate to match the tabs with cutouts on the body of the gauge. Likely the seal between glass and bezel has turned to either goo or crust. Most all we've encountered took some fiddling to turn the bezel, bending the tabs will crack or deform it.

I use acetone to help soften the seals, but be sure whatever you use, it doesn't contaminate the gauge face. Once the bezel is off, the glass just sits in a recess in the "can" and should almost fall out for cleaning. Both the larger and small gauges are the same, just more tabs on the big ones.

bezel50.JPG


bezel52.JPG
 
Chris,

How is the project going? Waiting for more news.
 
DrEntropy said:
Chris,

How is the project going? Waiting for more news.
Click to expand...
Hi Doc,
Has been quite cold down in Victoria and windy but have been pushing on, from the photos it has been mainly the dash
but this has led to more things to be resolved. With the dash finally out panel beated a bit and finally painted they way I wanted decided to re paint dash pad and fender as well.
This then led me to the heater once refurbished I then had to deal with the surface rust in the air intake plus while having the choke cable off did the air intakes for the carbys. The first pic shows gauges just sitting in their positions , replaced internal instrument lights with leds but was not sure if I should replace the ignition one with led I did read somewhere it is better to use the filament globe ? Also should I on the oil and water temp gauge use anything to seal the nut for the oil line coming to the gauge ? The chrome strip on the glove box has been missing for a month, my wife told me I must have thrown it out but like many times before I found it when looking for something which had nothing to do with the B. With the heater box as you said stuck the rubber block to the box and the other seals to the firewall , it took quite a bit of manoeuvring but got it.The gauges I have not decided what to do with the gauges but putting in the temp gauge the bezel released and the calking compound is
like dust so I was going to use Permatex form A sealing gasket sealant about $12 Aussie what would you recommend ?
Thats about it for now as it is nearly midnight better get some shut eye
Regards
Aussie Chris
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I would strongly resist using a permanent solution like 'perma'tex. In the links are suggestions about O-rings. you might even be able to find a craft foam or some rubber that you could cut a gaskt out of. If you do go with the permatex or some such sealant route, I would at least put it only on one surface and let it dry thoroughly before you mate it to the second so that you can remove the bezel again if you need to.

And trust me your need to remove it again in the future is directly proportional to the permance of your solution - don't ask me how I know. :D
 
Aussie Chris said:
The gauges I have not decided what to do with the gauges but putting in the temp gauge the bezel released and the calking compound is
like dust so I was going to use Permatex form A sealing gasket sealant about $12 Aussie what would you recommend ?
Click to expand...
As JP states, NO "permanent" sealant for the bezels. Scroll up to my #16 post above. Here's another llink >to Nisonger Instruments.< They sell the gasket set for all the gauges for skinny money, even with the cost of the shipping. Save yourself the aggro.

Otherwise, looks like some good progress!

That fitting for the oil pressure gauge had a small diameter flat seal for the seat, may still be in the ferrule? ISTR it was thin leather originally, but I may be mistaken. Again, no sealant, the fitting and ferrule are a tapered seat. Look for it on Nisonger's site at the same time as the gauge gaskets.

Keep us posted. 👍
 
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