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MG Midget in destress.

DavidApp

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I noticed this MG Midget in the back yard of a local residence. It has been there for a while now. I spoke to the owner and I could get it cheap.

As I am more familiar with the TR3A I did not jump on it immediately. I am having second thoughts about getting it as I hate to see a LBC rotting away.

Looking at these photos am I digging myself a hole?

David
DSCN0094.jpg
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drooartz

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Like your Triumphs, the big issue is always rust. Mechanicals are robust, good parts availability. But they rust. A-pillars, floors, quarters, pretty much everywhere. If you are not interested in body work, be prepared to spend lots of money to fix it.

That said, these are very fun little cars. Tight handling, nimble and quick if not fast.
 
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DavidApp

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Thank you Drew

The Triumphs have one big advantage with a frame to hold the rust together. The monocoque construction is the one area that worries me about repairs.
I did all my TR3 bodywork so I will not be farming it out.

David
 

JPSmit

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Whenever I talked about my car a guy in my club would proclaim "He got it for free and boy did he get ripped off." Then he switched to "He got it for free and he got what he paid for." It's a shame to see it rotting but, unlike a TR3, I doubt you can restore it for less than it will be worth done (Maybe that is true with TR3s as well but a good TR3 is a 30,000 car - a good Midget is a $10000 car. So do it because you love it or walk away.
 
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DavidApp

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Being retired my time is free so that helps. I just hate to see it rot in the back yard. It may be better as a parts car if there is too much rust to be a worthwhile project.
That is why I am trying to get a feel for the issues with the different construction.

David
 

JPSmit

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I suppose the biggest difference being unibody (I presume) is that other than Boot Bonnet Doors and front fenders. everything else is welded into one envelope. The A posts are the most vulnerable. If you look at the pic with the steering wheel I can't tell (bottom left) if the body skin is separated from the A post or if it is a shadow. Floors of course are an issue. I do also wonder if the rust on the rear around the boot lid is from a fire? I looks like that sort of flash rust. If it isn't it appears like it has taken a hit on the left rear - not necessarily a problem but harder to straighten on a unibody car. Like a TR3, parts are readily available. In my part of the world there isn't a huge market for parts cars - partly because if it is worn out on my car it is worn out on that car and partly because new is pretty inexpensive.

Would it be worth finding another and making one of two?
 

Bayless

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Having almost finished one, I may be able to add a little info. Like Drew said, the biggest problem is rust. My car had been a driver and to PO stripped it down for a total restoration but then got a divorce instead and needed cash. Where I found rust was rockers, or sills, and eyebrows over rear wheels. There is a bunch of structural stuff inside the rear fenders making that by far the hardest to correct. Outer sills are not too hard. Inners are also not so bad except for the need to keep the body straight while replacing them. I gave 700 for mine in boxes and currently have $6k in it including a complete engine overhaul, a 5 speed gearbox and the $1k conversion kit. It probably needs another $2k to finish including a new interior and I replaced a lot of parts that could have been reused. And the values seem to be trending up recently. Can you expect to make any money on it? Not likely. But it could be a fun project.
 
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DavidApp

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Thank you.
It seems the motor turns and will fire but the carb needs work. Webber?

I did not see any rust on my second look around. Some undercoating in the rear wheel wells pealed off but it seemed solid. The rear quarter had a hit and was being repaired by a shade tree body man who considered bondo the answer to the dents. As for the rest doors open and close nicely. windows go up and down.
He wants $400.00 for it.

David
 

Bayless

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Looks like a Webber carb and that is a pretty common replacement for the later Zeniths and not even unheard of for SUs. Some folks just seem to think SUs a too strange of fussy. Body tag shows Aug, 74 build date. I thought it would have rubber bumpers and a Zenith but I see a chrome front bumper anyway. That helps if you didn't find any rust and the motor at least turns. Still some work and not likely to be a money maker but at least based on my experience, it should be doable. So like JP said, if you actually want the project, it's probably all right.
 

RickF

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Looks like a Webber carb and that is a pretty common replacement for the later Zeniths and not even unheard of for SUs. Some folks just seem to think SUs a too strange of fussy. Body tag shows Aug, 74 build date. I thought it would have rubber bumpers and a Zenith but I see a chrome front bumper anyway. That helps if you didn't find any rust and the motor at least turns. Still some work and not likely to be a money maker but at least based on my experience, it should be doable. So like JP said, if you actually want the project, it's probably all right.
The car is a chrome bumper '74, not a rubber bumper car. The Weber carb is a common mistake made by people who can't tune worn out SU's and they don't realize how easy it is to bring SU's back up to snuff. Lot of good parts there, but it would be a big project. I would offer $250 based on the body damage and all of the other things I see. 🙂
 

JPSmit

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Thank you.
It seems the motor turns and will fire but the carb needs work. Webber?

I did not see any rust on my second look around. Some undercoating in the rear wheel wells pealed off but it seemed solid. The rear quarter had a hit and was being repaired by a shade tree body man who considered bondo the answer to the dents. As for the rest doors open and close nicely. windows go up and down.
He wants $400.00 for it.

David
If you can do the bodywork and the engine is free you can't go wrong for $400
 
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DavidApp

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I can do all the work including the painting. Engine work is my strongest suite followed by body work then paint and lastly trim.

It is a project to keep the mind active not intended to be a money maker. Break even would be nice. A small profit would be a Bonus.

David
 

JPSmit

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I can do all the work including the painting. Engine work is my strongest suite followed by body work then paint and lastly trim.

It is a project to keep the mind active not intended to be a money maker. Break even would be nice. A small profit would be a Bonus.

David
go for it and post pics! :cheers:
 
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DavidApp

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Well it is home on my trailer. The white tape is Racing Tape to make sure I did not lose anything on the way home.
First job is to get 4 tires that hold air. I may go to my local tire shop and see if I can get 4 second hand tires to use till I am further along on the project.
The wheels need work. Painting will help the.

David
Home on the trailer s.jpg
 
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