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Making Progress

I have a muffler and some bits of pipe you can borrow/have, Tush, if you need to rig a temporary exhaust.
Simon- (red TR4a)
 
Hey Simon,

How are you? Thanks for the offer but I think that I am ok. I have a new exhaust ready to go but I think that I am going to custom bend a few pipes to make it fit a little better.

Hope to see you out this Spring and Summmer.

Cheers,
Tush
 
Hey Tom,

Yes very pleased. A couple of cracks in the edges of the floors on the outsides of where the tank would sit. I am going to weld these up and then should be good to go in that area. I really need to get off my butt and close in the rear valence section and finish weld that before I paint with the POR15 as there are welds that come through the floor pan from the closing panel attachment.

Cheers,
Tush
 
M_Pied_Lourd said:
I really need to get off my butt..

Yeah, you are a real slacker Tush! I'm pretty sure you'll get the 3A and the 250 done before I have my 3A on the road!

I was going to start a similar thread on my progress, but Basil's search engine only can go back 11 years.. don't want to risk it!
 
Sometimes the little things can take a very long time.

My new rear valence didn't come with the "tubes" that the "distance tubes" fit inside to secure the rear bumper brackets to the frame. I bought a 3/4 inch steel tube and a 1 inch steel tube to see what would work best. Of course the 1 inch tube was too big and the 3/4 was too small. So I used my dremel and a sanding drum to reem the tube out a little and all was good.

I did end up cutting the verticle close in piece on either side of the spare tire well and will re weld these after doing some fit checks.

I need to now get the body back on the car with the spacers/packing material in place so I can make sure that the tubes are angled properly before I finish weld them and refit the closing panel. Will take the body off again to do this....

A few pics. Not too exciting, but progress none the less.

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Cheers,
Tush
 
Looks good Tush. I found those tubes hard to line up when rebuilding my rear apron and boot drip rail. I believe I ended up using 3/4 inch EMT (thin wall conduit) for the tubes - it was very close to the diameter of the existing tubes. Hope you did lots of trial fits before you welded them in!
Pat
 
Hi Pat, only tacked in at the moment :smile: Will see if I need to move them before I do the finish welding.

Cheers,
Tush
 
Hi guys,

Bit of an update with a few pics. The weather has been fantastic here and I have been trying to take advantage of it while I can.

Have done quite a bit more "finish" welding on the battery box and the rear of the new floor pans and transmission tunnel.

Had been waiting for a new shipment of cage nuts from Macys to finish with the front and rear wings cage nut replacement. So, finished the front wings where I had welded in new metal previously. Had to mount the fenders to find the new locations for holes to be drilled and cage nuts attached.

The rear fenders needed some work along the rear flanges as they were pretty wavy and all the cage nuts were rusted off and the holes had been elongated. I had the option of welding up the holes and re-drilling but I opted to cut and replace metal and then attach new cage nuts.

Did a few smaller projects like the splash guards as well just to get them out of the way. Stripped the doors finally and only have paint left on the spare tire cover. Kind of sad that the numbers are gone from the doors....

Here are some pics.

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Cheers,
David
 
Happy Easter Everyone.

Good long weekend to get some painting done on the bottom of the car. Nice to get it cleaned up a little bit. I went with something a little new (for me anyway). I used POR15 on my TR6 Resto and was happy with it so I thought that I would do the same on my TR3. I went 1 step further this time though and tried out their 2 part Whitecoat topcoat for the bottom of the car. Some pics.

Take pretty much a whole weekend between the cleaning, etching, Por 15 painting, Por etching primer, Whitecoat finish. Alot of time waiting for stuff to dry....

After Etching with the POR Metal Ready

P1100275.jpg

P1100276.jpg


After Painting with Grey POR15

P1100281.jpg

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After Paiting with POR Self etching primer

P1100285.jpg

P1100287.jpg


After POR White Coat

P1100296.jpg

P1100293.jpg


Cheers,
David
 
Yes, white with a black stripe. Since I am going to give real painting a go, I figure that white will be the most forgiving on my novice body shop skills.

Cheers,
David
 
You probably know a whole lot more about what you're getting into with paint than I do, Chef Tush, but I was surprised at the attention to getting the moisture out of the compressed air (including a desiccant) that Phil Crawford gave to his set up in preparation for painting Ol' Basil.
 
Hi PB, I have a solution to that problem! :smile:

I did think about it and it was going to be an issue with my regular compressor unless I invested in a bunch of dryers/filters.

I bought a self contained HVLP Turbine unit for painting that will eliminate this issue.

Cheers,
Tush
 
Hi All,

JP reminded me that I have been a little lax in my updates lately :smile: I started to take some videos of my progress. Not too much to report but some progress on inner fender painting and more welding repairs to the rear inner fenders. You can find the videos on my youtube site

https://www.youtube.com/user/cheftush/videos

I plan on continuing with the videos so if you subscribe to my channel you can follow along. Please be nice with the comments. Remember, this is a driver and not a show car :smile:

Cheers,
David
 
M_Pied_Lourd said:
....I bought a self contained HVLP Turbine unit for painting that will eliminate this issue...Tush

Just curious - any model or brand suggestion? What do you have to pay for a decent unit?
 
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