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Loss of Power

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carrottop

Senior Member
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First run of the season. All was fine for the first 5 minutes and then lost most of the power and very rough running. Changed the rotor and checked the wires, which are new. Started running smooth and then the same thing. What should check next. I have a pertronix module which has been running perfectly. Could it be the carbs? Plugs?

Thanks,

Eric
 
Check choke (stuck on?)
 
Don't think so. As this is a tri-carb, it has always been a pain to operate the choke, but it seems to go back to normal position once pushed in.
 
I heard the Pertronix timing wheel under the rotor keeps the rotor from going down all the way. That causes the carbon center electrode in the cap to get mashed too far into the cap.
 
Rotor is bottomed. Car ran perfectly all season last year without any sluggish loss of power. It is intermittent now. Thought it might be old gas but did filler up and no change.
 
Tahoe,

I thought of that too. Checked and the needles went in more easily than in the past but didn't know if lack of oil could cause this problem. I'm told that 20 weight oil is recommended, right? Also, how do I avoid over filling?

Thanks,

Eric
 
carrottop said:
Tahoe,

I thought of that too. Checked and the needles went in more easily than in the past but didn't know if lack of oil could cause this problem.
Idoubt it!!.




I'm told that 20 weight oil is recommended, right? Also, how do I avoid over filling?--Use a squirt type oil can..

Thanks,

Eric
Click to expand...

Bottom line Module may be failing.--Keoke
 
Keoke,

You sound like Dr. Doom. Do these these fail once operating? Thought they were pretty much fail proof.

Yuck,

Eric
 
Hi Eric,

Are you running a fuel filter? Have you run your car over the winter or was it in stasis?

I suspect that your problem is fuel starvation caused by a blockage or a failing pump.
Sediment could have collected on your filters and/or screens and cause a partial block when running for a little while. At rest, gravity would allow the bits to drop and open the passage. When even partially open, fuel flow and pressure would build sufficiently to fill the carburetor’s bowls and allow for normal start and initial run.

Good Luck,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Ray,

Fuel Filter new last Spring. Car was in my garage all winter but did not run it but for a few start ups. Mechanical fuel pump ticking away as normal. Will check the filter for blockage.

Thanks,

Eric
 
If you think its fuel, first take a fuel sample to see if you have water in the gas. You can also check delivery at the same time by pulling the crossover hose and letting the pump fill a jar.( with someone at the switch). You may also have one of the three float needles sticking shut not letting gas into the bowls. After you push the choke knob in make sure the jets go all the way up on the carbs.
 
I am thinking one of the carbs is not delivering fuel. Motor is totally lame with one of two carbs not supplying. I figure one of three carbs would be a little less obvious.
 
I would drain the gasoline out of the tank, lines and the carbs, refill with fresh and try again. Modern gas does not like to sit over time and can create trouble.
Good luck,
Scott in CA.
 
carrottop said:
Keoke,

You sound like Dr. Doom. Do these these fail once operating? Thought they were pretty much fail proof.

Yep!! and they act similar to your problem right now. A cloged fuel filter is a good suggestion too.--Keoke

Yuck,

Eric
Click to expand...
 
OK. So after sitting in the garage for a week, I took my BT7 out for a spin. A little harder to start than usual, and slower clicks than normal from the fuel pump, but took her out after a long warm up and she ran like a top. No loss of power and smooth all the way. I did notice another fairly large amount of water vapor during warm up like last week and was thinking: since I had little fuel in her over the winter (my mistake), can there be a larger amount of water build up than with a fuel tank? Last week she ran rough before and after the fill up but maybe there was a build up of water in the fuel line that had to get worked out. Is this a reasonable explanation or am I just another mystified Healey owner?
 
Tea it sound like you had water in the fuel system from someplace. Yes storing the car with a low amount of fuel in the tank allows more moisture to form than when it it full.--Keoke
 
Any opinion about StaBil (sorry for spelling) fuel stabilizer? I've used it for years over the winter. Always starts right up. I figure the ethanol in the gas would increase the water in the fuel and it would be more necessary to stabilize the fuel.
 
I use the StaBil in my 66 BJ8 all the time. Plus my 64.5 Mustang convertible all the time. Both cars don't get driven lots of miles so the gasoline can get a little old. Also use it in powered equipment that gets stored for a season. I have a 22-year old lawnmower, a 20-year old string trimmer and a 6 or 7-year old snow thrower and a 30-year old leaf blower. They always start right up after storage. Nothing like having archival power equipment eh?

Doug
 
I'm totally unfamiliar with electronic ignition setups so please forgive my ignorance, but, I had some similar issues and the problem turned out to be a flaky coil. Seems that when it got warm, the coil would act up, which is why why the car ran well initially. Someone on this forum wiser than I provided the tip.
 
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