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TR2/3/3A Location for electric fuel pump?

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TuffTR250

Jedi Warrior
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The attached picture shows the back side of the back shelf on my TR3. The large washers and bolts are where my seat belts mount. I am considering installing a Facet electric fuel pump. Since the fuel line comes out of the bottom of the fuel tank and Facet recommends that the fuel pump be as close to the fuel tank as possible and lower than the outlet on the fuel tank, there doesn't seem to be a lot of choices on where to install the fuel pump. I'm thinking of making a bracket that would be held in place by the seat belt bolts and then mounting the fuel pump onto that bracket such that the inlet into the fuel pump would be lower than the outlet of the fuel tank. Is this a safe place to mount an electric fuel pump? Are there any other options? Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 

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I mounted my Facet pump in the front left wheel well. It protected from all the weather, road salt, etc. It's been there at least two years with no problems.
Make sure to put some "insulators" under the mounting screws since it does make noise.
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I installed a facet in the inner channel of the frame, right below & forward of the rear left shock absorber.
i had to cut down the flanges & I fashioned a "u" bracket that went from the top of frame to bottom, insulated with split fuel line. Worked great.........for 3 months, then failed. After that I went with an airtex cylindrical model & liked the fit much better.
i considered mounting on sheet metal, but these things do vibrate quite a bit, so I liked the frame install better.

Fwiw; here is a link to a blog entry I made at the time :

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/entry.php?96-16-Facet-electric-fuel-pump-placement

(note: I didn't have a pic of the support U- bracket )
 
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The original (not repro) mechanical pump is so reliable that I would question the advantage of replacing it with an electrical one.
Berry
 
titanic said:
The original (not repro) mechanical pump is so reliable that I would question the advantage of replacing it with an electrical one.
Berry
Click to expand...
In addition is the safety issue of not having an automatic fuel shutoff in case of an accident. Or are you incorporating such a shutoff?
Charley
 
charleyf said:
In addition is the safety issue of not having an automatic fuel shutoff in case of an accident. Or are you incorporating such a shutoff?
Charley
Click to expand...
I have a fuel pump relay on mine. It senses distributor rotation.... the pump is energized as soon as the distributor starts to turn when cranking and running but cuts the power to the pump when it's no longer rotating (ie accident).
I also need to install an inertia switch which is on my "to-do" list.
 
This is where the PO Had it mounted.

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Cheers
Tush
 
titanic said:
The original (not repro) mechanical pump is so reliable that I would question the advantage of replacing it with an electrical one.
Berry
Click to expand...

I upgraded to the electric FP for a couple of reasons:
primarily because my repro mechanical was leaking at the sediment bowl top, no matter what I did.
2ndly: I was experiencing fuel flow / bowl fill issues & could not resolve them with the old mechanical pump.
note: I'm sure a new original mechanical would have answered, but the Roger Williams book " how to improve a Triumph TR....." Was empathetic about upgrading to an electric FP for improved performance. So for better or worse, that's what I did. I will say, The car is much easier to start after a down spell.
 
Bob,

after the facet silver failed, I went with the airtex E8016s, ( good reviews & it was the lowest output I could find at 2.5-4.5psi). Though mine actually runs at closer to 6psi. It's also quieter

relatively inexpensive on Amazon at $30., I bought two & keep one in the trunk.
connected the unit with jacketed spades, for a quick exchange, if #1 goes bad.(heeding the lesson of the facet)

also it fit the spot where I had the facet, with no additional modifications.

because of the higher than expected pressure, I installed a spectre fuel pressure regulator (also from Amazon , $25). Though I might not have needed it.

and like Elliot, I installed a safety switch wired into the (+)coil ,( mines made by revolution & I think I bought it direct from the company for about $55) to shut the FP down when the engine stops.
i considered the inertia switch, but read about to many malfunctions to feel comfortable with that.

Anyway, hope that helps.

happy Thanksgiving!


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Thanks Guy!! That was a lot of good information and very helpful pictures. It sorta appears that Facet may have some problems and as a result several people have gone with Airtex.
Regards,
Bob
 
My TR6 sits idle for long periods of time. For that reason, I've been thinking about installing a booster electric pump for starting only, with a bypass fuel line - much like a lot of the old cars use to have. Has anybody done this and where did you install the pump. And - what brand.
 
GTP1960 said:
I will say, The car is much easier to start after a down spell.
Click to expand...

That is interesting. My 3 sometimes doesn't get driven for a week and it turns over many times ( full choke ) before I get a pop out of it. I still have the original pump with the prime lever on it, so I guess I could prime it to see if I get a faster start. I never thought of an electric pump for faster starting when cold. :cool: Happy Thanksgiving !
 
IMHO, that primer lever is a joke. It's never made a dime's worth of difference. I will say that once under way, these mechanical pumps are very reliable and trouble free - at least mine has been over the 20 years I've owned the car. Just hard starting, that's all.
 
Sorry but I don't agree. The primer lever on the mechanical pump I had in the car worked perfectly. A couple of pumps after the car had been sitting and the bowls were filled.
 
Gliderman8 said:
Sorry but I don't agree. The primer lever on the mechanical pump I had in the car worked perfectly. A couple of pumps after the car had been sitting and the bowls were filled.
Click to expand...

I totally agree. I love the primer levers on my TR6 and TR3A's. They are great if the car has been sitting for a while or over a long winters storage.

Cheers
Tush
 
Although it has been a few years since I had a TR3, I still remember how quickly it started regardless of the temp. Maybe it had something to do with the cam timing. The only exception was the first startup after setting for a few months. It would run like crap until fresh gas was added.
My TR6 is somewhat slower to start after being dormant. It has the early PI cam, which may be a factor.
Anyway, both cars used the AC mechanical pump, which have never caused a problem. The priming lever should fill the float chambers just as effectively as an electric pump. About the only disadvantage of the mechanical pump might be filling the crankcase with gas if the diaphragm leaked. A good reason to fit a shut off valve, regardless of the type of fuel pump fitted.
Berry
 
I understand most electric pumps, whether the spinning vane type or the reciprocating piston type, prefer to push rather than pull the fuel.
So they should be mounted at the back of the car, below the tank, and protected from flying gravel, rather than at the front of the car.
If you use a pressure regulator that can go at the front.
 
For performance, the best set-up would be a 12-14psi pump at the tank, pushing to a 2.5psi regulator located as closely to the carbs as possible. That keeps ample fuel at the perfect pressure under all acceleration, braking or cornering.
 
CJD said:
For performance, the best set-up would be a 12-14psi pump at the tank, pushing to a 2.5psi regulator located as closely to the carbs as possible. That keeps ample fuel at the perfect pressure under all acceleration, braking or cornering.
Click to expand...

Hey John,

That makes since. (12-14psi pump at the tank, pushing to a 2.5psi regulator located as closely to the carbs as possible.)
I'm using a low pressure pump below the tank, pushing to an adjustable reg. up front, but am trying to improve performance.

What brand pump do you use?

Best regards,

Guy
 
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