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Last minute check before engine install

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R

RestoreThemAll

Jedi Warrior
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I'm finally on a roll after a long dry spell. We're installing the engine/gearbox/OD package as one unit this weekend on my BJ7. This car is undergoing a full frame off (Jule frame) restore. I have not installed the shroud yet. We're using an engine lift and leveler.

Are there are items that should be addressed with the power package out of the way? Anything that's real tough to do with that engine in place?

We have taken care of: starter solenoid, throttle linkage, mounting bolts/chased thread holes, battery cable, brake/clutch/gas lines, all painting, spin on oil filter, heat shields, suspension, motor mounts bolted on engine, crank shaft dampener, wiring harness, intake/exhaust manifolds

I'll install afterward: starter, dizzy, gas peddle, generator, Ebrake lever, drive shaft, steering gear box/shaft,

Please share any thoughts, advice, words of caution.

Dale
 
Thanks Steve. I did the throttle linkage install yesterday. It was a bear chasing the new paint out of the mounting threads.

Dale
 
steveg said:
The throttle mechanism with cross-rod would be easier to install before the engine.
Click to expand...
and the oil pressure line that attaches to the side of the engine block. I have a Jule too....use the threaded studs that Marty uses for the engine mounts because they make it really easy to line up the motor mounts.
 
I would leave the heater and air ducts off until after the engin is in. With the shroud off, you will have plenty of room to install them later.
 
Rob Glasgow said:
I would leave the heater and air ducts off until after the engin is in. With the shroud off, you will have plenty of room to install them later.
Click to expand...

At the same time, you might want to install a bilge blower in the fresh air duct as Rob did in a previous thread.
 
My neighbor owns a boat yard. I've been eyeing his retail display that includes bilge blowers, after having read Rob's thread.
Dale
 
I put one of those blowers in my 100 6 but decided that it just blew HOT air. So I stopped using it.
Jerry
 
Jerry said:
I put one of those blowers in my 100 6 but decided that it just blew HOT air. So I stopped using it.
Jerry
Click to expand...
As was discussed in previous threads, the success of the bilge blower depends on baffling etc to prevent hot engine air from being recirculated forward into the "cold" air intake.
 
I'd suggest fitting the clutch slave cylinder to the gear box, at least before you push the engine/box back towards the drive shaft. It's not the easiest slave cylinder to bleed, not much room.
 
I dug up a photo of my engine shortly after I installed it and noticed I left the intake and exhaust manifolds off until the block was in place. My thinking was it was easier to work on the motor mounts without the manifolds. They are not hard to install afterwards without the shroud and fenders in the way. I also left the starter and distributor off.
 

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This is the first car that I've put on a rotisserie for restoration. It was very nice first painting the car then installing wiring, brake/fuel lines, etc... standing or sitting up. Suspension and brakes were completed while on blocks about three feet off the ground. It was like sitting at the dinner table! I'm not so much looking forward to installing body panels. I may just drive it around the neighborhood for a while without the body installed. My granddaughter has already agreed to watch for the cops...who are my friends and neighbors.
Dale
 
Youre right about the ease of working on the car when it's off the ground and naked. I'm hesident to put the body panels back on, fearing I will forget to do something before things get complicated.
Driving the chassis around without the body is a whoot. I took mine to a car show in August and had a lot of interest in my half finished car.
Good luck with the next steps.
 
You might want to drop the fuel line a couple inches where it crosses the frame. When fitting the engine, the pulley could crush the steel line.
 
Dale,

Sounds like you and I are at about the same stage in restoration of our cars. I'm also restoring a BJ7 and just installed the engine and tranny about 3-weeks ago. I have limited headroom in my garage and thought it would be difficult to install the engine and tranny as a unit without possibly scarring the new paint on the chassy. I put the engine in and then installed the tranny from the passenger compartment. It took some special made rigging to do this and a little extra time making things line up but it worked quite well. I would second the installation of the clutch slave cylinder before installation as it was difficult to do afterwards. I had all the throttle linkage on the firewall installed before as well as the steering column and the dizzy. I put in a new reduction unit starter which was easy to do after the engine was installed. Did I mention that I have a Jule frame also?

Good luck with your rebuild,
Griz
 
Griz,

Thanks for sharing your story. It's good to know that someone is doing nearly the exact same project just ahead of me. I may be in touch once in a while if that's OK?

I haven't spoken with Marty in a while. Maybe you can answer a Jule frame question. Did you have to drill holes for the OD mounts? I have two in the center cross piece but none for the outer mounts.

Here's something else that I'm concerned with. I see people lifting that 800# plus lump using only the rocker assembly studs. That scares me. Where did you attached to the engine for lift points.

I love this forum!

Dale
 
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