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KNOCK- KNOCK-KNOCK

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AweMan said:
Were it me I would remove the oil filter/canister { which ever the case may be} and drain it. It may take a couple of times and restarting the engine each time after you drain the filter doing it this way to get the amount you want out of the crankcase.
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In SD1 motor,bad idea to let the oil pump drain. I think that is what started this in the first place.
gjh said:
...Do you have OP gauge? How is the PSI?...Good luck.
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The oil pressure I posted somewhere. It was OK at speed ,a bit low at idle.
Can't remember where I posted it.
 
That surely sounds like engine knock from being oil starved at some point in the engines past. I've heard it before from an oil change gone horribly wrong. Forgetting to add the new stuff and starting it up. I learned the hard way that it does not take long at all to do the damage and cause this noise.

.
 
So have you tried removing plug leads Don?
Any results worth passing on?
 
AltaKnight said:
So have you tried removing plug leads Don?
Any results worth passing on?
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Yeah Don - what is up.

I've tried pulling plug leads on the TR8 at various points but the Rover v8 is robust enough that it can be hard to actually tell a difference....
 
How in blazes do you drain out a qt. of oil with a drain plug about 7/8's of an inch

Very carefully! Just make sure the engine is cool. Don't remember why I had to do it but I just slowly turned the drain plug and kept a little pressure on it. Quickly pulled it out then back in. A little of a mess but couldn't have been easier.

I thought of AweMen's suggestion but I would not start up the engine with a empty oil filter. Pull the coil lead and crank until you have oil pressure. Then empty again. I always pre fill my oil filters and crank the motor over until oil pressure is achieved. Saves a lot of ware on startup.
 
TR3ATR250 said:
How in blazes do you drain out a qt. of oil with a drain plug about 7/8's of an inch Very carefully! Just make sure the engine is cool. Don't remember why I had to do it but I just slowly turned the drain plug and kept a little pressure on it. Quickly pulled it out then back in. A little of a mess but couldn't have been easier....
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Tried that ended up with an arm full and oil all over the floor
and curse words in the air
 
hey tdskip, if you are going to drive up I5 you could stop by my house and take a tr7 manual steering rack up for don?
 
You where reading my mind.
I would have never suggested it though.
 
Well I did the plug pull test and I don't hear any difference.
When you rev the motor it either goes away or the motor drowns it out.At idle it isn't a steady knocking sound . It is hit or miss.
When you stand on the passenger side of the engine bay the knocking sounds like it is on the drivers side. When you stand on the drivers side it sounds like it is coming from the front.
 
If you did the MMO thing and checked the valve springs. That kind'a eliminates the top end. I think you need to take that oil pan off and check the lower end before you cause more un repairable damage. I warned my brother when he was fooling around too much with different oil weights to compensate for high and low oil pressures in his Porsch 924. He soon put a new engine in it.

Much to serious to be playing around. Expressly with a TR8 motor. Or find a reputable mechanic for an opinion.
 
Yea Art, I think that is it. It dawned on me in the shower today.
 
Trip got cancelled - so need to get back to you on that. Bummed - I absolutley love Seattle...

Keep us posted Don. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 
Just got back from Alaska/Seattle. Saw an MG going from the airport, and an MG going to the airport. MGs, never heard of them. Anyway, what a great part of the country. Funny, saw a bunch of mid-fifties American iron in Victoria, B.C.

Here's a tip: never fly Jet Blow!
 
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