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swift6
Yoda
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There is a good possibility that it is a lifter that's not pumping up all the way. Not that big of deal really. Noisy, but I have been advised that its not terminal. I have a "sticky lifter" in my TR8 as well. If its a lifter you should be able to hear it easily from outside or in but with your head in the engine compartment you should be able to isolate the sound close to the head. Upper part of the engine anyway.
I wasn't told until later but it sometimes happens when the oil pump partially loses its prime. Which can happen when you change the oil filters. To limit this headache, prefill the new filter with oil and have it ready to go on as soon as you take the old filter off. Then when you start it back up after filling the crankcase there is minimal loss of prime. Or so I have been told.
If it is a bearing knocking... don't wait too long to find out for sure.
I wasn't told until later but it sometimes happens when the oil pump partially loses its prime. Which can happen when you change the oil filters. To limit this headache, prefill the new filter with oil and have it ready to go on as soon as you take the old filter off. Then when you start it back up after filling the crankcase there is minimal loss of prime. Or so I have been told.
If it is a bearing knocking... don't wait too long to find out for sure.
OP
DNK
Great Pumpkin
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My bad then, Woody told me to do this and remember my problem with too much oil in the pan? To help the situation out I changed the filter again and of course I didn't want any fluid in it so I put it on dry. So how to I get it to pump up. It seems only to do it when the motor is HOT. It make a loud racket when the motor is stumblingly at low idle.
AltaKnight
Jedi Knight
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If it's a deep pitched noise it could also be piston slap, particularly if it tends to reduce/go away as the engine gets warmed up.
I know, I know, I'm not exactly making you feel any better, however piston slap can often be rectified with a simple piston replacement as the bore is often still in good shape.
I know, I know, I'm not exactly making you feel any better, however piston slap can often be rectified with a simple piston replacement as the bore is often still in good shape.
Lifter noise is the most common knock you will hear. Second would be a from a broken valve spring. Remove the valve covers and take a look. If it is a bearing noise or a piston slap, your looking at a rebuild. What has been done to the engine? Does it have any mods? Sometimes you can narrow down where the noise is coming from by holding a long screw driver against the motor and also up to your ear. Not as effective with an alloy motor thou.
philman
Jedi Knight
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I found that my 10mm deep 1/4 socket fits on the oil pump drive shaft and I primed the oil pump with an electric drill motor until oil comes out the rocker shaft.
When I put my new exhaust on my engine I could hear noises masked by strait header exhausts. My engine also makes a noise when the oil warms up. I have a mechanical guage on it, at start up when cold it reads about 30lbs and drops as the engine warms up to about 10lbs at idle. That's when I hear my the noise in my engine. Interesting you bring this up at the same time I bring mine back to life and have the same situation?!
When I put my new exhaust on my engine I could hear noises masked by strait header exhausts. My engine also makes a noise when the oil warms up. I have a mechanical guage on it, at start up when cold it reads about 30lbs and drops as the engine warms up to about 10lbs at idle. That's when I hear my the noise in my engine. Interesting you bring this up at the same time I bring mine back to life and have the same situation?!
AweMan
Jedi Knight
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My experiance with noisy lifters is, they typicaly make nosie when they are cold.
A spun bearing will be dry {no oil getting to it}, therefore it will get loud in very short order and either sieze up or break a rod. At the very least score the crankshaft very badly.
A worn bearing typicaly exhibits the symptoms you describe, Warmer = louder.
One way to tell for sure is remove one spark plug wire at a time while the engine is warm {making noise} and running. IF the noise goes away, that is the cylinder that has the problem and the problem IS a worn rod bearing.
If the noise presists there could be a number or difficulties such as piston skirt slap, broken piston, worn wrist pin, Possibly a lifter noise but normaly lifter noise is more of a tick tick sound. Worn rod noise gets louder on acceleration and deceleration, there is a happy medium inbetween aceleration and deceleration where the noise all but dissapears.
In any case, a fix before running the engine much further is a MUST DO!
A spun bearing will be dry {no oil getting to it}, therefore it will get loud in very short order and either sieze up or break a rod. At the very least score the crankshaft very badly.
A worn bearing typicaly exhibits the symptoms you describe, Warmer = louder.
One way to tell for sure is remove one spark plug wire at a time while the engine is warm {making noise} and running. IF the noise goes away, that is the cylinder that has the problem and the problem IS a worn rod bearing.
If the noise presists there could be a number or difficulties such as piston skirt slap, broken piston, worn wrist pin, Possibly a lifter noise but normaly lifter noise is more of a tick tick sound. Worn rod noise gets louder on acceleration and deceleration, there is a happy medium inbetween aceleration and deceleration where the noise all but dissapears.
In any case, a fix before running the engine much further is a MUST DO!
philman
Jedi Knight
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You can remove the oil pan without pulling the engine. You need to lift the engine about 2" to clear the steering rack (I have a manual rack). I disconnected the headers, removed the engine cover, raised enough with the shop crane to remove the front bolts to the motor mounts, lift enough to get the oil pan out.
I found out that it is better to remove the strainer before removing the windage tray. There is still some oil in the windage tray. You should be able to get to the rear six rod bearings with no trouble.
This link helps explain noisy rod bearings.....
https://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm
Which I am told is accompanied by low oil pressure.
I found out that it is better to remove the strainer before removing the windage tray. There is still some oil in the windage tray. You should be able to get to the rear six rod bearings with no trouble.
This link helps explain noisy rod bearings.....
https://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm
Which I am told is accompanied by low oil pressure.