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Kingpin Bushings

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MY66AH

MY66AH

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Going to replace the Kingpin bushings on my 66 Sprite. Is it very difficult? Words of wisdom? Thanks in advance.
 
Send it to Peter C who I believe does them. Its not an easy job and they need to be reamed to size after they are installed. I've done one set myself and hand scaped the bearings to fit. Long winter!:p

Kurt.
 
Let me post a link to tonorrow that breaks it down step by step. I've posted it but tell us your symptoms. In taking the front end apart a Sawzall us your friend.
 
Here is a Step by Step to taking the Front Suspension Apart and Rebuilding. A handy reference that takes it step by step. Helper bolts which are around 6" long threaded 5/16" rod IIRC will aid in putting everything back together to compress the spring. Tighten the two bolts until you get the spring compressed far enough to get the other two bolts started, remove the helper bolts and then tighten all four evenly. Works slick and is safer than spring compressor and other type of things people suggest. Good luck and ask questions when you can't get things to come apart.
 
MY66AH said:
Going to replace the Kingpin bushings on my 66 Sprite. Is it very difficult? Words of wisdom? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
hi Just did mine but peter will not do drum brakes king pin bushings.
Also the ones on my 58 were still good . the big problem were fulcrum pins and wish bones area. Got new wish bones spindles and fulcrum pins. As a result I ended up with 2 extra fulcrum pins and a set of bushing upper and lower. they are now for sale. PM me if interested.
 
Follow the link I sent for a step by step but you will need a major suspension kit for all of the parts and pieces you need. If you are lucky fulcrum pins can be unscrewed if you can get the locking pin out. My experience after doing this three times on the rusted mess I've is Sawzall needed to carefully slice bolts that attach wishbone to body mounting points. Sawzall also needed to cut fulcrum pin as the locking pin will be rusted in place. At that point the kingpin fall out, clean up threads in wishbone and see how tight the fulcrum pin fits in wishbone.if there is any movement fore/aft metal bushings in wishbone are worn and need rebushing. Apple Hydraulics will rebush. Or with lower prices these days source new wishbones.
After engine rebuild front end is second most expensive part of repatriation to do correctly. Once you get this on the bench and start to take apart the mysteries and questions about Spridget front suspensions will suddenly become clear.
 
PS you will still new Peter C to ream kingpin bushings. He turned mine around in a day or two and back to me for a very reasonable cost.
 
If you have drum brakes and you're rebuilding your front end, now is the time to upgrade to discs!
Rut
 
That's what I've done with Bugsy. There is a parts car out there from someone on this list that can provide you with disc brakes. I've got new calipers on order that will complete the front subassembly, got to paint them Red of course, along with a sway bar, major suspension kit, rebushed A Arms. Will top that off with 4 of Peter C's shocks and I know Bugsy will handle right.
 
Rut said:
If you have drum brakes and you're rebuilding your front end, now is the time to upgrade to discs!
Rut
Click to expand...
I do have drum brakes but last year I bought a new master cylinder. this year i bought new swivel pin kits, new springs, both standard and 340lbs per inch. Will be testing them to see which ones work best for me. Also replaced the wishbones which are drilled and braced for a sway bar. Which I will have soon. I am use to the poor performance of the drum brakes and drive with that in mind. I would like discs but that is now a year or 2 off. Now I am working on rear suspension so I can get the car to go straight in stead of crabing.
Thanks
rod
 
first thing to do is to get 2 4 inch bolts high grade. to uses as slave bolts to remover the springs. You may have to thread them all the way. Take the wheels off and then remove the back plate do not need to remove the line to the brake cylinder. Just tie it up to keep pressure off the line. Now look at the spring pan. held on with 4 bolts. Remove one and install a slave bolt. Run the nut all the way down. Now remove the bolt on the diagonal position and install the other slave bolt. now remove the 2 other bolts and back off your slave bolts. This will lower the spring. The rest is easy Just do not mix up the position of the tinioun that fits to the steering arm.
 
Why would a complete NOS front end kit need the bushings "reamed"? The new bushings fit the new king pins just fine.
 
The process of pressing out the old bushings and pressing in the new can and usually does reduce the inside diameter of the new bushings. The kingpin to bushing fit needs to be within 'spec' in order to keep them from seizing on the kingpins. If yours fit properly then you are lucky indeed, but if the front end starts to lock up you get to do it over.
Rut
 
Rut said:
The process of pressing out the old bushings and pressing in the new can and usually does reduce the inside diameter of the new bushings. The kingpin to bushing fit needs to be within 'spec' in order to keep them from seizing on the kingpins. If yours fit properly then you are lucky indeed, but if the front end starts to lock up you get to do it over.
Rut
Click to expand...
I tested the fit of new kingpins with old bushings and the fit was fine. I do not know what the spec are but it felt just fine
 
Rod,
it's not unusual for the old bushings to fit a new kingpin. Mine fit well on my Bugeye, but the kingpins were discolored (blueish) from friction heat and it didn't cost much to do it right. I wanted my front end rebuild to outlast me, in fact that's the way I'm treating my entire restoration.
Rut
 
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