Independance Day Insanity

[Norton47]

I spotted a 1975 Spitfire in the local craiglist. Wasn't running but had been in garage. 1000.00 or OBO. It was so close to home and after talking to the gal, I went and looked at it.
It is really rust free. The underneath is clean, it appears to have original chocolate brown paint. The battery compartment had one corner corroded out and there was a pile of white powder on the floor board. But no damage there. Soft top had cloudy windows and one cracked. It has a weber DCOE 40 on it. The rear spring has been replaced by one from a local outfit called Benz Springs. It has an overdrive.
Long story short, I made her a considerably lower offer and she agreed.
I put some fuel in it and got it to run. Took it around the block and the overdrive worked. Couldn't believe the clutch and brakes worked but they did. However while driving it home it started to over heat and we towed it the rest of the way.
It has this odd noise like maybe the fan clutch is going out. Also the alternator is not charging. It has a lucas unit. Any common aliments, I should check for here?
I read that the Weber should be a 45 if it is a single. Is this correct? Will this 40 work or should I replace it will a dual Stromberg or SU setup?
She also has a Manta that is setting uncovered in a garage collecting dust. These were her father in laws cars and he was killed in a car accident and they have been selling off his cars. She is talking about getting this Manta running and then selling it. Very cool looking, but I must say I don't know anything about them.
Thought I would clean this Spit up and play with it this summer and perhaps find it a new home. If it gets good fuel mileage, I may keep it. It cool setting so close to the road.

 

[TR3driver]

It has a lucas unit. Any common aliments, I should check for here?

Most common failure is the regulator inside the unit, followed by the diodes. Check the obvious stuff first of course, belt, mounts, pulley nut, wiring and so on. Some Lucas units require a 'sense' wire and won't charge if it's missing.

But I'd just stick a Bosch on there (from a 78 Ford Fiesta with AC).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I read that the Weber should be a 45 if it is a single. Is this correct? Will this 40 work or should I replace it will a dual Stromberg or SU setup? [/QUOTE]I'm no expert, but it's my understanding that the 40 is fine on anything up to "fast road" tune. The 45 is more appropriate for all-out race motors.

 

[backroadsjeff]

When the alternators started acting up in both my TR6 and Spitfire I replaced them with a GM/Delco unit - 63A output and rock solid voltage regulation. I still have the Lucas model to go with the car if I sell it.....(and anyone wants it!)

 

[tosoutherncars]

I spotted a 1975 Spitfire in the local craiglist. (...) while driving it home it started to over heat and we towed it the rest of the way. It has this odd noise like maybe the fan clutch is going out.

The fan clutch makes a horrible rumble, when it goes out... sounds like the lower end of the engine is about to explode.

A single, large hose clamp tightened against the back of the fan will lock the clutch, getting rid of the noise. At a pinch, I hear a shoelace will work as well.

FYI, the earlier spitties had the fan bolted directly to the water pump, so you're not doing anything the factory didn't do. (The clutch was just there to allow the engine to heat up a little faster, and maybe save a little on milage.) If you rebuild, switching to an earlier (pre-75?) pump & fan removes the need for the fan clutch. Saves you a few pounds of rotating mass, too!

-Duncan

 

[tosoutherncars]

https://www.teglerizer.com/alternator/index.html

Alternator swap info...

 

[DrEntropy]

The 40 DCOE is worth 400 CFM at WOT. Unless that Spit has bee HEAVILY breathed on it should be FINE.

Check the timing. Run a leak down test, dry and wet compression, see if the total lift on the cam is factory or not... mebbe back flush the cooling system and see what comes out.

 

[aeronca65t]

With the engine Off and in neutral (wheels blocked) pull forward and backward on the crankshaft.
Be sure it has no more than about 0.014" of "slop" (really, "thrust"). It's best to use a dial indicator, but you may be able to set up a feeler gauge to check this if you're creative.

If the crank feels like it has a noticable amount of fore and aft slop (more than 0.014"), drop the oilpan and check the thrust washers before you run it again.
Bad thrust washers are a common problem and fairly easy to replace. If you run with worn ones, they can fall out.....and about 10 minutes later, the crank will only be useful as a boat anchor.