Ideas needed for under dash radio mount, cup holders, glove box

[Deleted member 21878]

AS for a glove box...
i have my heater but decided i did not need the back seats on my BT7. i bought a couple stainless steel pots and put them in the holes for the back seats. then built a cover for them. the whole unit is held in by one screw and can come out pretty easily. ALthough i don't think i have ever taken it out. the back seats are wrapped up on a shelf.

 

[Keoke]

Hmmm--Still upside down on the forum and right side up in my computer!

That must be that Reid fellas doings------LOL

 

[RAC68]

Hi Richard,

Although I do not have a solution to offer, I would suggest identifying the radio/sound system you would really like to have in the car and then select a unit, with its components, that meet your requirements. This would then have the extent of your installation requirements.

A while back in 2008, I went though this selection and when completed, fabricated a new replacement console (original is on the shelf), side mid range speaker mounts with tweeters on each end of the dash, and an amplifier and base installed in the boot.



Without your heater, you have quite a bit of real estate to create a sound system you can really enjoy while driving.

enjoy your Healey,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[Editor_Reid]

That must be that Reid fellas doings------LOL

No, my powers may be used only for good

 

[HealeyPassion]

Work in progress... gauge panel for new EFI build. The ECU is behind the upper portion of the gauge panel. Much to do... gauge panel removes with 2 screws, one on each side... gauge wiring will be plugged for easy removal. Heater remains in place. Besides gauges, has 2 DC power ports. It will all be black wrinkle finished to have a "factory" look. The package tray will have the Lin Rose VW cupholder option.:tennis:

 

[steveg]

HP - Are the Stewart Warner AF and EG gauges switchable between senders for the front and rear headers?

 

[HealeyPassion]

HP - Are the Stewart Warner AF and EG gauges switchable between senders for the front and rear headers?

Steve, both the A/F (which is an Innovate gauge) and the EG gauge have their sensors reading from a center of an H pipe (see pic) so they read the blended readings from all 6 cylinders. On my last build I put separate bungs in both header groups (front 3 and back 3), and while it provides another level of detail during dyno tuning, I never saw an advantage in normal driving. So, this time I'm just presenting the driver with the blended readings. By the way, the Innovative gauge and Maximum Performance SW gauge didn't come with a bezel like the old style SW gauges so I had to get old style SW gauges and cut the bezel off it and adapt it to the newer gauges... sounds easy if you say it fast.



Cheers, Steve

 

[steveg]

Beautiful job on the pipes!

Whose headers are those?

 

[HealeyPassion]

Beautiful job on the pipes!

Whose headers are those?

Steve, those are modified Kirk headers. The #1 pipe on the original Kirk's is a slip on pipe that goes around the motor mount. I recontoured #1 pipe to go on the other side of the motor mount and it is solid mounted to the collector. I also cut off the collector end which was 2 1/2" flange and replaced it with a 1 3/4" collector flange... which matches up better to the rest of the exhaust. Then the whole thing was ceramic coated inside and out to reduce temperatures.... supposed to reduce temps. by 175 degrees. I like the Kirks because they have 1 1/2" primaries... many you see have 1 5/8" or bigger primaries... I'm told by smarter people than me that on a street engine you need to keep the exhaust velocities up so a smaller primary is better. I suspect the exception is if you are racer with continuous high rpm then bigger might be better.

Steve

 

[steveg]

Steve - what muffler are you using?

I'll be curious what kind of EGTs you getting so far from the cylinder head. I'll be installing my probes a couple inches outboard of the head.

 

[HealeyPassion]

Steve - what muffler are you using?

Steve, I'm using a stock muffler, but I weld flanges on front and back so I can … relatively... easily remove it. My exhaust is 1 1/2"... so 1/4" larger than stock. I also reroute it... pic attached. The rerouting is to accommodate the Udo Putzke rear shock kit.

Steve

 

[HealeyPassion]

Steve, regarding EGT's .... don't know yet... haven't got it wired up yet. Steve

 

[John Turney]

Beautiful work!!

 

[Michael Oritt]

HP--

I love your work and will only comment that a separate EGT on each branch makes for a wonderful diagnostic tool.

I have a Westech twin-EGT gauge on my Elva Courier with a sensor in each 2->1 collector and if some misfire, etc. develops when running at WOT I can quickly identify whether or not the issue is common to all four cylinders (in which case I am looking at fuel supply before the carbs or the distributor or coil) or simply two cylinders in which case I am looking at the appropriate carb or ignition leads or plugs, etc. The Westech gauge is made for small aircraft and only comes in single or twin-needle configuration but perhaps there is an EGT that covers three sources or switches between them.

 

[steveg]

Michael - what kind of temps are you seeing from your collector EGT probes?

 

[Michael Oritt]

Steve--

Usually about 190-195, this on a 1600 cc MGA engine with race cam, etc. etc.

 

[steveg]

Steve--

Usually about 190-195, this on a 1600 cc MGA engine with race cam, etc. etc.

Michael - I meant exhaust gas temps, not coolant.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Sorry Steve. Without looking at the gauge's scale I cannot now tell you but when everything is firing 100% the needles are a bit above midway on the range which I think corresponds to around 1300-1400 degrees. I'll try to remember to check the face of the gauge tomorrow and post the answer.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Steve--

Attached is a pic of the EGT gauge and for once my memory was correct. I look for about 1400 degrees on both needles when running at WOT and anything less than that on either needle is a sign to me that something is amiss.

Because of the confines of the engine compartment, etc. the pipes from cylinders 1 and 2 (or 3 and 4) do not merge until a point about 15-16" from the exhaust flange and because the recommendation is to mount the probes closer than that to the engine I had to settle for putting one probe in the pipe from cylinder #1 and the other in the pipe from cylinder #4. However this arrangement still tells me the general health of the whole engine as well as giving me a comparison,. if any, between cylinders 1 and 4 and thus the front and rear carburettors, etc. etc.

I suppose that the distance between the probe and an engine might have an effect on the EGT and so my numbers are not an absolute but simply a point of comparative reference,. BTW I have the gauge rotated 90 degrees and the top scale relates to the #1 cylinder and the bottom scale the #4 cylinder.

 

[steveg]

I suppose that the distance between the probe and an engine might have an effect on the EGT and so my numbers are not an absolute but simply a point of historical reference,. BTW I have the gauge rotated 90 degrees and the top scale relates to the #1 cylinder and the bottom scale the #4 cylinder.

I'll be installing my probes in #1 & #6 for the same reason.

FWIW, my HF IR thermometer shows around 600 F 1" out from the head and 400 at the collector of my Kirk headers. Therefore am assuming 1200 actual at the head would read 800 at the collector - not enough temp to be useful and barely reading on the gauge.